47-55.1 GMC LS Swap Radiator question

[JDarby]

Thank you to LeeGreen and DSRaven for technical support!!
This Mac was driving me crazy between the touch pad , mouse and my lack of ability, ARG!!!

[leegreen]

big price difference to get the steam port!

here is the upper rad hose coupler with steam port I used on last LS swap:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0BKRS2GPN/
1-1/4 inch Radiator Hose Barb Adapter with 1/8" NPT Port is description. Check dimensions as some listings use that description but the coupler is much smaller OD than 1 1/4

and the 1/8 NPT 1/4" hose barb :
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XS164TV/

I do think a rad supplier for LS swap into a specific vehicle should be able to specify hoses that fit, but if you need to cobble rad hoses grab the hoses from your swap donner vehicle and some 1-1/4 and 1-1/2 hose couplers without the steam vent.

[JDarby]

Here is another option for a steam port or at least 1/2 of it.

Cost just under 40 buck's on Ebay.

[dsraven]

also, to mention an importantt factor, use good quality heat rated hose for the steam port and run it with a continuousupward flow to the highest point nearest the rad that is possible. use good quality hose clamps that don't dig into the hose when tightened, like a fuel injection hose clamp.
it looks like that adapter part would be easy enoiugh to fab but try to use a pipe that can be coated so it doesn't rust up the cooling system.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by dsraven

also, to mention an importantt factor, use good quality heat rated hose for the steam port and run it with a continuousupward flow to the highest point nearest the rad that is possible. use good quality hose clamps that don't dig into the hose when tightened, like a fuel injection hose clamp.
it looks like that adapter part would be easy enoiugh to fab but try to use a pipe that can be coated so it doesn't rust up the cooling system.

Researching and buying and using the highest quality hose designed for a specific purpose on these trucks an absolute must if you are going to do serious driving. More so when running an LS.

[JDarby]

I have noticed that one of the radiator manufactures offer a "Consumable Electrode Kit" with there systems.

Is rusting a major problem in these LS motors more so than in one of the old school motors?

I know from experience with my electric water heaters in my home that certain properties do not mix well and in fact create a rust problem.

[leegreen]

Not aware of any electrolysis issues.

maybe for racing applications at tracks that don't allow glycol

[dsraven]

coolant, in general and especially in diesel engines, naturally changes PH levels and should be tested occasionally. auto parts places sell test strips for that purpose. they are simple to use, just dip it in the coolant, wait a minute for the strip to change color, and compare against the side of the bottle graph to see your coolant's PH level. on diesel engines, there are coolant filters and they can be purchased with different levels of PH additive to deliver the correct charge to the system to bring it back to acceptable levels. I have personally seen a GM v6 engine that was driven only, not much for service, and it developed a coolant leak. the coolant ate a hole right through the aluminum water pump. coolant has a lifespan because it goes acidic over time.

[dsraven]

domestic water supplies can have varied degrees of minerals and different PH levels. that's why it is recommended to use distilled water when diluting coolant, filling a battery, etc. otherwise just buy the ready to go prediluted coolant. it is never advised to use straight water unless it is for a very short trip, like down the race track. plain water can start rusing stuff right away and rust is like insulation to a cooling system. heat can't get to the coolant if there is rust between the heat source, like the cylinder walls or head cooling jacket. coolants have corrosion inhibitors and water pump lubricants built in. a good rad cap is also a priority as a higher pressure in the system raises the boiling point of the coolant.

[JDarby]

With the average life time of a radiator being 8-10 yrs approximately
and me being the type of person who will be holding on to my truck once completed,
I have been having one heck of a time in choosing which radiator I want!

All Oversea's built one's have a lifetime warrantee what ever that really is?
and free shipping!

I am not sure a steam port ( for the added cost ) is really not worth it.
That money can be used else where in the finishing touch's.

My truck has a budget, it sure can be hard weighing out all these options!!

[dsraven]

yup, electrolysis happens in a cooling system. different elements react together and create a small voltage that travels through the coolant.
here is a little article that could explain it better maybe. no personal thoughts or heresay then. just the facts. lots of owners will simply test the coolant and say, yup it's good. no worries. it's a good idea to put a sticky or whatever on the overflow reservoir to say when the coolant was changed, block drains opened, system flushed and then refilled with fresh coolant. 5 years is a max for me, with the longlife coolant.

https://www.freeasestudyguides.com/electrolysis.html

[dsraven]

the outside of a radiator can appear to be in good shape, it's always a good idea to lower the coolant level enough to see down inside the rad at the ends of the cross tubes and see if there is any build up there, blossoming, and if so use a commercial rad flush additive, as per directions, then allow to cool and drain the system, pull the block drains, back flush the heater core, etc etc. remove the overflow res and clean. then reconnect everything, install the plugs and refill with fresh coolant

[dsraven]

and, of course, pressure test to the same pressure as the rad cap or maybe a psi or two more. let it sit for 15 minutes, then see if the pressure held before saying "all good". then start it up, burp the system and top up as you go. run it to operating temp for a few minutes, ensure you have heat from the heater etc. then shut off and leave a few minutes before crawling underneath to check for any wet spots that may appear. when pressure testing always look for seapage around hoses and quick connects for heaters etc, heater valves that may be inline, frost plugs, block heaters, rad tube to tank connections, if a plastic tanked rad check the gaskets where the plastic meets the aluminum, water pump shaft seal, in intake manifold to head areas, thermostat gasket/seal, anywhere that has a coolant gasket or seal.
forgot to mention previously that when the cooling system is flushed a new OEM branded thermostat should be installed. I have done many aftermarket stats because thats what the owner wanted. now I will not install anything but an OEM stat. I have done too many redo's because of an aftermarket stat that either doesn't work right outta the chute or else it calves in a short time. no heat up or overheating, neither is good.

[JDarby]

All this reminds me that my 2014 Tacoma is over due
a good flushing

[dsraven]

as a mechanic I have seen a lot of issues pertaining to maintenance of the cooling system. some I have pulled the block drains and nothing ran out the block had that much sediment. some I have had to remove the frost plugs and hose out the sediment it was so deep. overheating? dunno why...
backflushinhthe heater is also a good thing. if using a garden hose remember the domestic pressure is way more than a heater or rad core is meant to take. there are hose attachments to connect to overcome this. if you think your system is getting plugged up with blossoming etc use a coolant flush chemical first. go by the instructions. keep flushing until clear water comes out. collect the coolant because it's a eco hazard and you could find yourself paying a large fine if caught. as a firefighter I know the hazmat release would be cleaned up by proffessionals and the bill goes to you plus the fine. if it gets into a storm sewer or domestic sewer that clean up bill is huge.

[JDarby]

Thought I would bring some closure on which radiator I finally opted for:
I will deal with the steam port accordingly!
Summit had a good price on it and if I have any issues with it they are located one city away from me

I want to thank all of you with educating me on my journey!