08-22-2004, 06:13 PM | #1 |
Geared for Collision
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: St. Louis, Mo.
Posts: 683
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Bruised Knuckles
any tips on getting these knuckles and u joints apart on my 44? cant seem to get to the nut i circled. looks like im going to need a bigger wrench for one as biggest i got is 1 1/8" and its bigger than that. or does it take a special tool to get to it? once i get that nut off i should be able to drive out knuckle right? i got the top nut off and the c clip off bottom one. is there a c clip on top one? i didnt see one. any advice or tips appreciated.
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MEMBER OF THE 4 WHEEL DISK BRAKE CLUB 1970 C/K20 3/4 Ton 1996 Collectors Edition Corvette 1977 Corvette Coupe |
08-22-2004, 07:22 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Lancaster Park, AB
Posts: 38
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well on my 74 chev dana44 this is how I did it.
to remove the upper ball joint nut just loosen the nut before you do anything, keep the truck on the ground, tires on etc etc. on my truck once you have the tires off, hubs and discs etc, I can pull the axle shaft (ujoints and all) out fromt he axle housing and through the nuckles first. then to remove the lowwer ball joint nut I jack the truck up with the jack DIRECTLY underneith the lower ball joint, this kind of binds it there allowing you to turn the nut without the whole ball joint spinning. now that you have all the nuts removed grab a long pry bar, 6' or something. jack the vehicle up on the axle shaft. pry the nuckle down using the bar allpy alot of pressue while a friend beats down on the nuckle. it'll pop off in a few good swings of a 4lb mallet. now the axle being out of the truck ... I dunna. thats gona be tuff. |
08-22-2004, 08:24 PM | #3 |
user # 2756
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
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Yep it'll take a bigger socket. I used a neighbors 3/4" drive socket set. Need to pull the axle out first. Once you get that nut loosen, not all the way off, strike the upper ball joint and it'll fall off. I posted some pics awhile back from a different computer, you could scan the threads or wait till i can get them off my old computer w/o the virus.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
08-22-2004, 08:38 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Lancaster Park, AB
Posts: 38
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if you plan on re-using the ball joint make sure you loosen the nut enough that when your striking the ball joint your striking the nut, not the threads. striking the threads could mushroom the top and render it toast.
I couldnt get mine off that way though, mine were really really on there. I needed to use some serious leverage and apply pressure down with a breaker bar while striking the ball joint with a 4lb mallet. |
08-22-2004, 10:09 PM | #5 |
Geared for Collision
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: St. Louis, Mo.
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lol glad i asked. i didnt realize axle would pull right out through hole in knuckle i got it out and now my 3/4 drive sockets fit on it. i just didnt have wrench that size had sockets. i put a socket on it with breaker bar and got it too move a hair so looks like ill be able to get off ok. too dark to see right now ill try tomorrow. hey jim you know how im changing out the knuckles out onto my other differential. i was which inner and outer axles to use or does it matter? updatelee im using every part on it new so dont matter if gets tore up on ball joints. thanks for info guys saved me a bruised knuckle
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