What did you do to your truck today.The 3rd chapter

[72c20customcamper]

Easiest header install I’ve ever done . One glitch the rear bolt on number 2 exhaust wouldn’t make the angle to go in . I heated the header and put a tiny dimple and it went right in . Headman offered to replace them under warranty but it was so minor I didn’t go that route . The headers fit perfectly .

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

Easiest header install I’ve ever done . One glitch the rear bolt on number 2 exhaust wouldn’t make the angle to go in . I heated the header and put a tiny dimple and it went right in . Headman offered to replace them under warranty but it was so minor I didn’t go that route . The headers fit perfectly .

Nice beefy flanges! Those should hold up well.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

After my Hedman headers rusted out, I was careful to order the same part number for the replacement. However ''Progress'' had marched on -- and the Collector/Exhaust junctions were now a new Ball style. Not the 3 bolt sets that press a flat gasket. So I had to sawzall-off the ends and run 7 miles to Midas to get Ball ends welded on my exhaust pipes.
Then I found out a year later my local Hot Rod Shop could have gotten me the old school Hedmans if I bought them there. But I thought I was saving a buck at Jegs.

Anyway, for the old school Collector/Exhaust gaskets, I found the thicker Copper ones were the best. Never burned out.

The rust thing is why I went with stainless steel . The Doug’s ceramic headers on my Chevelle look like . They rusted just about as fast as painted ones and this is a nice ce weather car . If they go I’ll go with stainless on that too

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Nice beefy flanges! Those should hold up well.

I was very impressed with the flange thickness and overall thickness of the headers . Took a bit of force to dimple the one tube even heated . Now I need to get some pipes for the exhaust

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

The rust thing is why I went with stainless steel . The Doug’s ceramic headers on my Chevelle look like . They rusted just about as fast as painted ones and this is a nice ce weather car . If they go I’ll go with stainless on that too



I was very impressed with the flange thickness and overall thickness of the headers . Took a bit of force to dimple the one tube even heated . Now I need to get some pipes for the exhaust

I've run headers on vehicles in the past, and leaks were always an issue. I've stayed away from them for decades because of that. I'd be interested to know if those stainless headers ring less than the regular steel type. I'd like to get the engine in my truck rebuilt sometime in the future, and wouldn't mind seeing the cast iron manifolds gone, but that ringing is unacceptable to me.

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I've run headers on vehicles in the past, and leaks were always an issue. I've stayed away from them for decades because of that. I'd be interested to know if those stainless headers ring less than the regular steel type. I'd like to get the engine in my truck rebuilt sometime in the future, and wouldn't mind seeing the cast iron manifolds gone, but that ringing is unacceptable to me.

That hasn't been my experience.
Tri Y on a 454 haven't touched them since 2017 when I bought the truck.

And 4 -1 on a sbc been together since 2016 zero maintenance
nor leaks.

Dougs tags on both sets.

[BRL]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

. ..And 4 -1 on a sbc been together since 2016 zero maintenance
nor leaks...

I've been very impressed with these crusty old headers, I used copper gaskets on the heads and collectors and added Permetex copper colored gasket sealant to them.
I also cut the metal bars between the ports because I read that would help to prevent any metal warpage from unsealing the ports.
Must have done something right because I installed the headers around 1999 and they've sealed perfectly ever since.

[BRL]

Oh yea, it has kind of warmed up around here today so I waxed the truck.
Stuff still hasn't dried as of this writing.
Thought I'd give the ladder a try to wax the roof and clean the windshield for some reason.
That worked out OK.

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by BRL

I've been very impressed with these crusty old headers, I used copper gaskets on the heads and collectors and added Permetex copper colored gasket sealant to them.
I also cut the metal bars between the ports because I read that would help to prevent any metal warpage from unsealing the ports.
Must have done something right because I installed the headers around 1999 and they've sealed perfectly ever since.

Maybe it's internet headers that leak.
I don't know..

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

The rust thing is why I went with stainless steel . The Doug’s ceramic headers on my Chevelle look like . They rusted just about as fast as painted ones and this is a nice ce weather car . If they go I’ll go with stainless on that too



I was very impressed with the flange thickness and overall thickness of the headers . Took a bit of force to dimple the one tube even heated . Now I need to get some pipes for the exhaust

I am not likely to need headers anytime soon. But next project, I will look into SS headers. Even if they are twice the price, if they outlast three sets of rusty ones, you're ahead.
I expected more mojo out of Ceramic coating.

Now that the '71 Jimmy's not my DD, I can run it on the siding and R+R the headers. Gonna paint them White with the cheapest Ace Hardware stove paint I could find, and reinstall them with fresh gaskets and re-attach the Dipstick tube to the side of the Block.
I still have my Mom's old Hotpoint. Hoping the resident packrats have left some internal insulation...
Bake Two hours at 500*.

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

Easiest header install I’ve ever done . One glitch the rear bolt on number 2 exhaust wouldn’t make the angle to go in . I heated the header and put a tiny dimple and it went right in . Headman offered to replace them under warranty but it was so minor I didn’t go that route . The headers fit perfectly .

I read an article years ago, it may have been David Freiburger of HotRod Magazine where they dyno'd a SBC engine with new perfect headers, they then gave the headers the the old hammer to fit treatment.

The pulls they performed showed no measurable difference in performance.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by Sheepdip

I read an article years ago, it may have been David Freiburger of HotRod Magazine where they dyno'd a SBC engine with new perfect headers, they then gave the headers the the old hammer to fit treatment.

The pulls they performed showed no measurable difference in performance.

The dimple was minor . I believe they missed the mark on this one pipe . The front and rear pipes on both sides have a similar dimple . I just made it a little longer.

[PowerdbyChevy79]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

Easiest header install I’ve ever done . One glitch the rear bolt on number 2 exhaust wouldn’t make the angle to go in . I heated the header and put a tiny dimple and it went right in . Headman offered to replace them under warranty but it was so minor I didn’t go that route . The headers fit perfectly .

They look good...

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by PowerdbyChevy79

They look good...

We shall see how they hold up as this truck is my worker truck . I use it as a tow vehicle for the other show vehicles and my swap meet truck

[72c20customcamper]

Got the exhaust yesterday . This shipment was delayed 3 days I’m guessing they needed to find pieces . All the pipes were there but most of the installation hardware was missing except this one clamp . Summit is sending out a replacement package of hardware.