71' Blazer Rust bucket build

[richard2717]

Originally Posted by CG

Thats a very cool tool. I wonder if you could use some of those fittings on an "armstrong" hyd. press? Obviously you couldn't do the real heavy stuff but small pieces like you show maybe?

I have seen ads for the manual type shop presses for the press brake before but have not seen any for the hole punches. I don't see why they would not work other than the operator being worn out by the time they got done a dozen holes.

[jaros44sr]

all I hear is crickets, anything new? Great work so far

[richard2717]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

all I hear is crickets, anything new? Great work so far

Nothing happening at the moment. Been real busy with work related stuff. It is annoying but it actually pays the bills. Probably be another month on this job then I can get back to the program.

I was able to go up to Newark DE and buy an entire truck load of Blazer stuff. Most of it was new in the box. It gives me 2 sets of complete gaskets sets and a whole bunch of seat & interior related stuff so that will help with some of the money bleed After I get done figuring out what I need to keep I will put the rest up on the board for sale.

[richard2717]

FINALLY got a chance to get back on this thing yesterday afternoon. does not seem like 5 months. Did not get a lot done but it is progress. Was able to get the surface rust cleaned up, prepped, sprayed with rust converter and the lower patch welded in. Still have to dress it down later today and get it covered. Will try to get the lower inner fender plates welded in as well and that will be all that is done to the front clip. Gotta get back to finishing up the front floor then I can at least get it set back on the frame to see how everything is sitting.

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[richard2717]

Another whole day of being able to work on this thing but man did it kick my ass for the most part. Got the front of the floor spot welded in place then tackled the lower A pillar on the passenger side. I ended up purchasing 3 of them before I got one that actually was made with enough flange to be able to drill holes and bolt it to the floor pan. up to this point everything was going smoothly. I figured I would go ahead and start temporarily bolting in the B pillar bracing to make sure everything was lined up correctly before proceeding too far. The original pcs had long 5/16" bolts (that you have to cut the inside of the B pillar to get to inside the truck) the new plates had 3/8" nuts welded to them instead of the original 5/16" so I had to go on the hunt for some 3/8" bolts that were long enough. Took an hour but finally found some. Once I got the correct bolts coming down from the top It lined up pretty nice but I had to take it back out in order to modify the lower floor riser hole. The hole must have been punched in the riser before the factory spot welded the floor pan to the riser and the rear lip of the pan covered half of the hole. I did not notice it until I already had it partially bolted in. After I got that all in I decided to test fit the torsion box. I finally deduced after way too long screwing with it that the front flange that welds to the front floor lip must have been dropped or just plain bent wrong from the start. I ended up having to bend it out towards the front of the truck almost 3/4" in order to be able to get the bolt in the rear cross member spot. It still does not sit as snug as the original did but I can live with it as long as everything fits in the end. Cant weld it in until I fit the original paint doors I sourced for it way back. Tomorrow I am going to figure out where I want to cut the patch pc that butts up to the back side of the quarter panel there at the B pillar. I still have yet to find a good quality outer lower B pillar patch. I have 2 here and both are stamped a bit different from each other and neither matches the original contours. Hoping to get it wrapped up tomorrow but i know my luck

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[richard2717]

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[notsolo]

Looking good Richard, Beautiful clean results. your deep in spaghetti junction, floor, inner rocker, torsion box, out rocker, end caps. I am shocked your 50 yr old Metal puzzle pieces don't align, going to be sweet, good things take time... Cheers and Merry Christmas...Ed

[richard2717]

Originally Posted by notsolo

Looking good Richard, Beautiful clean results. your deep in spaghetti junction, floor, inner rocker, torsion box, out rocker, end caps. I am shocked your 50 yr old Metal puzzle pieces don't align, going to be sweet, good things take time... Cheers and Merry Christmas...Ed

Thanks for the encouragement Ed. I wanted to work on it all day today but that is not happening. I bought a new welding helmet and I don't like it at all. It does not seem to go instant dark as soon as the arc is struck and I must have gotten an arc flash while welding yesterday. Woke up with bad eye pain in my left eye as well as an overall bad headache so just taking it easy today. Already lost my hearing, can't afford to lose sight as well. It would be hard to drive this pig with no sight.

Merry Christmas to you as well.

[richard2717]

My eye feels much better today so not sure if it was a weld flash or not. They usually last a few days.

While out in the shop this morning I made the choice to use the rust free rear floor that I went to pittsburg and picked up several years back. I will have to modify the rear cross member since it is a floor from a 71 but should be pretty easy to put the notches in it. I am hoping that is the only difference.
My dilemma was that I hung it up on the wall several years ago 16' up. I had a helper and a man lift at the time and nothing was in the way. I got tired of the manlift being in the way so I sold it. My helper passed away from cancer almost a year ago so it is just me now. What to do safely , or at least as safe as one person can. I backed my dually in to the shop as close as possible, rigged up a strap and used a clevis to attach it directly to the boom. I still had to use a ratchet strap to take some of the slack out of the lifting strap so the boom would not hit the ceiling. I have a wired remote control for the boom so was able to safely lower it to the ground level. I forgot how nice the floor was. It originally came from Sharpie out in Wyoming before i got it from PA.

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[best view]

If you’re going to drive it this summer you better get your ass in gear 120 days left

[richard2717]

Originally Posted by best view

If you’re going to drive it this summer you better get your ass in gear 120 days left

Been in bed sick since last Friday and this $7 per gallon K1 for the heaters is kicking me in the budget source

[richard2717]

Had a job to do up in Frederick MD this morning and was able to meet with Greg (bcnya2) and grabbed the set of NOS rear tubs he had for sale. Other than tires I think I have everything needed to finish putting this thing back together. My son and his family will be up for a visit next week for a week so hoping to get him to help me with a few things while he is here.

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[jaros44sr]

Nice progress, keep it going

[richard2717]

quick question. I have not added the gear oil to the transmission, T case or rears since putting them back together. It is all inside the shop, but should I be worried about the insides starting to rust? There was a light coat of oil on everything during assembly but I never got around to filling any of it.

[68panelman]

I would fill them up Richard, why take a chance on your rebuild, especially if your shop isn't always temperature maintained, we get some big temp swings this time of year and condensation could be an issue.

[richard2717]

hard to believe been a year since I have had time to work on this. Scored this on Marketplace today. the spare tire carrier was welded in place but I was able to cut it loose without damage. It appears to be an original bolt that they welded to the stand, but either way it will get removed. Next warm day I will fire up the blasting pot and get it back in shape. Been busy cleaning up shop so I can get back to the metal work here soon. I have been saying it for 10 years or more now, but I hope to drive it this spring. It used to be if I had the time, I needed money or vice versa. Now it seems it is the energy needed

[best view]

Update

[richard2717]

Originally Posted by best view

Update

I wish. Working by myself in my business was a great idea business wise but has dampered all of my truck work. Once my spring rush is over with I hope to get back on it. Thanks for checking in.

[richard2717]

After about 3 years of stuff piled up, on, around and under the Blazer I finally have it cleared off and back to ground level so i can get working on it again. I forgot where I was on it it has been so long. I wish I had written a list like I did on the panel truck. I was able to get the big CNC router out of the shop which was taking up a lot of floor space.

I have been pretty much down and on my back for the last 2 months with a new/old back & neck injury. Lots of chiropractor appointments later and I am back to "as good as it gets". C5/ C6 is deteriorating to the point it is messing with the nerves in my arms. I lost all strength in my right arm and that as well as my shoulder and neck region felt light I had a propane torch on it 24 hrs a day for almost the 1st month. I can handle loss of my hearing but bad toothaches and this are a no go. Hope it never happens this bad again. The doc says only other option at this point is neck surgery and I have not talked to anyone so far that would do that again. What is strange though is that there is a 20% chance that it is also causing my tinnitus from what I have been reading. Oh well....

Since the chassis has been done for a while I need to get the rear floor done and everything underneath coated so I can get it set back on the chassis. I have had all new body bushings from Wes for several years so I will have to find and dust off that box soon.

I ended up selling the yellow floor to someone who wanted it worse than I did so I am back to repairing this floor. I did not really want to pull the whole back apart anyway. I have a repair panel and rear sill (both new aftermarket) so That is where I am headed. I will have to make up patches around the wheel tubs as well.

The rear cross member is a bugger to get in and out with the sides still bolted to the floor but I did not want to take a chance on breaking the top. It can be done without unbolting them in case anyone wanted to know.

Pay no attention to the blocks on the lift arms not actually holding anything. when I took all the counterweight out of the back, including the tailgate it came up off the blocks about 1/4". I had stands up front already anticipating that it would happen. Being able to move them out of the way made it possible to get the cross member swapped out. I am waiting on rust converter to dry now before bolting it back in and moving forward with the rest of the floor repairs.


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[richard2717]

Got the rear cross member installed and the rear patch almost trimmed enough to weld.

Just put a WTB add looking to see if anyone has some decent floor cuts for the wheel openings. I have made them for another floor just hoping to save some time.

Debating on whether to use my NOS rear tubs or my aftermarket ones. The aftermarket ones I used in the red/white 69C10 did not fit too bad. I have a set of Key parts ones sitting here I will probably try 1st.


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[CG]

Thought I’d chime in on the neck surgery. I had it done and super glad I did.

I’ll never be 100% ache free but man so much better! Took me awhile to get my food swallowing back. Just had to be careful how I ate and always had water when I ate.

Never heard anything about tinnitus getting better with that surgery. I had it before and still do

Here is a link to the type of spinal surgery I had. Pretty big job. Surgeon said he was going to use me as some sort of case study.

https://www.spine-health.com/treatme...-spine-surgery

[richard2717]

CG thanks for your positive side to the surgery. As of today I feel good enough I don't see it in my immediate future but I am sure the day might come.

[sfont66]

Following for future reference…
And to offer encouragement from time to time.
I would love to do a blazer for the next project, and I happen to know where 2 are. They are rough, but even so they are expensive, and then expensive to fix.
Best thing is my wife is completely on board.

I need to go back and read your thread from the beginning,
I will need to educate myself on some of the additional problem areas that are unique to the blazers versus the C10. This will help me to better understand what I’m looking at when viewing the next potential project

Keep up the great work, looking forward to seeing more!