47-55.1 Body mount/bolt locations

[scott123]

I made a dumb mistake. The previous owner welded just about everything on this truck, not only the body bolts to the cab floor but ran a bead along the threads after tightening the nut.

I should have measured before I cut them out. (not smart)

Should i roll the chassis back up under with the new mounts and then weld in the patch panels to align with the frame mounts? or....

is there a diagram showing measurements from a reference point to the body hole in the pan?

I moved a bit fast on this one.


Scott

[mr48chev]

These are ball park figures and may not be that accurate. I am getting is 5-1/4 back from the bottom of the toe board and 3-1/4 in from the sides at the bottom. I wouldn't take that as gospel though. That 49 cab has some sloppy work on the seams of the floor and may not be that accurate.

[scott123]

Thank you so much. That will get me in the ball park/actually pretty close.

Thanks.

Scott

[leegreen]

My '52 was frame swapped and the floors and floor braces and replaced by myself 40 years back. I think 18 year old me measured carefully. But present day me has struggled with panel gaps since resuming the project.

Based on that experience, in your shoes I'd bolt the hood, inner and outer fenders, core support, front brace rods and grill all on. get it all lined up on the frame and shimmed to sit at the correct height over frame as specified in shop manual. Then tweak sheetmetal to get good panel gaps. then tighten all the bolts.
Only after all that would I re-drill the holes.
Get it all mounted on the body mounts, confirm all the panel gaps and drill for some locator pins to allow it all to go back just the same before you pull fenders off again.

[mr48chev]

I'd say that in this case Leegreen has the right idea. Set it in place, bolt the rear mounts down, square it up and then dril the holes using the hole in the frame as a guide.

Another measurement is that the firewall is 17.75 inches from the front axle center line.

[scott123]

Big picture I think using the frame mounts as a guide will be easier. No lift, two chain falls, a floor jack and push power means the more I can do without moving the two halves back and forth.

The front clip is in tact so that part is done and can be used to reference the 'big picture'.

I can set the motor and transmission and get everything in place and then drill "new" holes.

Thanks for the help. Pics to follow.

Scott

[mr48chev]

I'd say it could easisly enough be part of final assembly rather than pre assembly unless you plan to do a pre assembly fit everything up and make notes thing as part of the build.