Source for pre bent brake lines

[rbruno68]

I am working on sources for brake lines for my 63. I have a disc brake conversion from CPP, but it is not a power disc brake. It will be manual disc with no booster. I will just have a dual master cylinder with proportioning valve. I called Inline Tube to buy pre bent stainless lines, but they either have power disc lines or dual M/C drum lines. They don't have the ones I need. Anyone else do this type of conversion and buy pre bent lines? If so, where did you get the lines.?
Thanks,
Rob

[Tpo]

Rob,
Considering how cheap you can get tube benders for and the fact you can rent a flaring kit for free at Oreillys, I suggest you give it a go yourself. I’m an idiot and I was able to make a line. I’m weary of the made to fit lines, they are expensive and you hear they don’t fit right. I watched some vids on flaring, ruined a couple sticks of line practicing, but it’s all good, because now I have extra “practice layout “ line and flare nuts.
Just something to consider.
John

[Tpo]

Oh and I’m interested in the same thing, manual disc brakes, please tell us how it goes.

[Accelo]

Bending isn't as difficult as it looks. Get a stiff wire and bend a pattern. Some even use the less expensive steel tubing for a pattern.
Stainless is overrated. It is very difficult to double flair at home. By law, they require double flairs.
I had zero luck before I purchased a hydraulic flaring tool. Turns out the location and style of the lines changed often as did the options.
The lines I purchased "Were made to fit" till they didn't.
I'm betting even with the frustrations and the learning curve you will still be better off bending them yourself.

[rbruno68]

I would like to go with stainless and have the concern of trying to put a double flare on them because I have heard that is difficult to do. I found stainless steel fuel lines and sort of want to get them to match. I thought about buying one of the kits and try to "stretch" the coils a little bit to take up the distance of the booster. If that doesn't work, I would only have to make the lines from the MC to the junction blocks. But, I still may end up making the lines myself. I should be working on the fuel lines soon. Long before I would need to do the brakes. If I find that working with the stainless fuel lines is not too bad, I may end up bending them myself. Still a work in progress.

[rbruno68]

Originally Posted by Tpo

Oh and I’m interested in the same thing, manual disc brakes, please tell us how it goes.

Not to switch the discussion from the brake lines to the MC, but I have been reading as much as I can, but am not sure what exact MC I need to buy to make this work. There is a long thread on here that I read with a MC someone bought for non power disc. I would like to find an AC Delco replacement but I don't think they make them. I think I am looking for a 71-72 MC for non power disc. But, again not sure.

[VictoriaHardware]

Mild steel can be done by amateurs with a little practice. Bending and especially flaring stainless tubing is a significant step up in skill level from mild steel. Small diameter (1/8" and 1/4") makes it even harder. I do not recommend it for amateurs.

[dmjlambert]

I converted from drum to manual disc brakes for my 69 and bought from inline tube. After hearing from a friend working on his Mustang with pre-bent stainless steel line and the trouble he went through getting the connections to not leak, I'm glad I went with regular steel. He ended up using copper flare washers to get the lines to seal. I told him about copper flare washers regarding the steel fuel line connections on my truck, which I had difficulty getting to seal. I think for my 63 I will also do manual disc brakes and this time use nicopp coil brake line that I've seen a lot of people recommend, and bend and flare my own. I plan to get a flaring tool and line straightener, and I already have a line bender.

[Killer Bee]

I have quite a bit of high pressure hydraulic tube bending experience as part of my trade. heavy wall, stainless, etc. can be challenging.

I always recommend OEM steel brake lines where possible but as fate would have it, I was faced with a dilemma couple of years ago and gave nicopp (nickel copper) a shot. I was previously dead set against it.

worked out well and I would use it again for something not fast or requiring high performance tubing.

some of the guys at work have used it for utility vehicles and trailers without issue.

nicopp comes in rolls and is very easy to bend by hand and flares easily. biggest downside is it doesn't really hold a straight line because it comes off a roll. big upside is less connections on long runs and corrosion resistant.

lots of info out there on it but feel free to ask any questions. could be a quick inexpensive alternative to get you on the road until you figure out what your final configuration will be.

good luck!

[62bagger]

I used NICOPP on my brake lines and it was easy to work with and looks great. I did use stainless steel for my fuel lines and it is harder to bend and I had to buy the correct tool to get the double flair leak free.

[rbruno68]

Thanks for all the replies and info on NICOPP lines. I will look into that as well.

I have read about people having a hard time getting the stainless ones to not leak. I am wondering if that are examples of guys having a hard time with putting the flare on the end of stainless lines and therefore the lines leak because it is not a good flare. Or, are the leaks with the pre bent lines in a kit from like InLine tube with better quality flares?

My fuel lines from InLine tube came yesterday. I haven't tried bending them much yet but I will be working on mocking up my fuel tank this week and doing the bends. We will see what happens.

Rob

[K10-Kansas]

I went with pre bent and I ended up bending them a lot to get them to fit so I should of just went with a do-it-yourself plan.

[rideblue00]

I bought a hydraulic flare tool from Vevor and made several S/S lines. Where the trouble was for me is keeping the tube clamped tight enough for it to not move. And also I did many practice runs on the flare until it was consistent. The cheaper c-clamp type flare tools didnt cut it for me, I found sometimes they kicked the flare off crooked. If I do it in the future, ill use the NiCopp stuff.

[Killer Bee]

stainless is more difficult to bend and flare because it's harder and less malleable than mild steel. High carbon steel, heavy wall, or any other high strength tubing presents similar difficulties

good quality tools will make these tasks manageable and easy with a little experience

cheap import tools like harbor fright might leave you disappointed or struggling to get passable connections

good luck!

small sample of my early work in my 20's

hand bent 6000 psi HP limiter tubing on a Denison Gold Cup pump





Parker Vpak motion base 3000 psi HPU prototype for Nascar amusement ride Irvine Spectrum. kinda sloppy but just needed one out for testing





bonus for hockey fans - no tube bending, just power steering / hydraulic fan pump for a Zamboni