The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1960 - 1966 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-15-2024, 04:26 PM   #1
Too Slow '90
Registered User
 
Too Slow '90's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: The Old Dominion
Posts: 63
Power Booster/Oil Canister Interference

I'm working on tying everything together for the power front disc brake conversion on my '60 with a 235. I am using the Captain Fab bracket and one of the recommended boosters. The oil filter canister is in the way of mounting the booster. I didn't see this issue on any of the write ups but I don't see any other way it could go on.

I will have to relocate the oil filter canister. Does it matter where it's relocated? Thanks in advance.
Too Slow '90 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2024, 01:15 PM   #2
rideblue00
Senior Member
 
rideblue00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Lambertville, MI
Posts: 1,865
Re: Power Booster/Oil Canister Interference

Pics?
rideblue00 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2024, 10:07 PM   #3
theastronaut
Registered User
 
theastronaut's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Anderson SC
Posts: 3,901
Re: Power Booster/Oil Canister Interference

Another option is to use a smaller bore master cylinder without the booster, and leave the brake pedal pushrod in the original manual brake hole for more leverage on the master cylinder. I have a front disc brake swap on my '66 with the original 6.25 to 1 pedal ratio and a 1" bore master cylinder with no booster and the brakes work great without excessive pedal effort. You could use a 15/16 or 7/8" master cylinder instead for even less pedal effort, but you don't want to make it too easy since you don't have ABS.

I don't really understand the point of adding a brake booster when half of the modifications that go along with adding a booster take away line pressure- altering the pedal ration from the stock 6.25:1 to around 4:1, and using a larger 1.125" master cylinder both take away line pressure that the booster is adding. It's better to just use a properly sized master cylinder and the original manual pedal ratio without a booster. It cleans up the look under the hood and the brakes are easier to modulate.
theastronaut is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:32 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com