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08-20-2004, 12:12 PM | #1 |
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valve cover gaskets... preference ?
Anyone choose any certain brand of valve cover gaskets over another...and why?
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5/4 drop LWB wood bed - 15x8 front 235/60 - 15x10 rear 295/50 2003 FORD Escape 1998 Honda VTR1000 |
08-20-2004, 01:23 PM | #2 |
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YEP --- FEL-PRO BLUE STRIPE RUBBER GASKETS. I TAKE 3-M WEATHER-STRIP ADHEASIVE, & GLUE THEM TO THE VALVE COVERS. THEY WORK GREAT, ARE REUSABLE, DON'T LEAK & COST ABOUT $10 OR $11. THEY ARE ALL!!!! I EVER USE. JOHN
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junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE. THERES ROOM FOR ALL OF GODS CREATURES RIGHT NEXT TO MY MASHED POTATOES// LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST |
08-21-2004, 02:41 AM | #3 |
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cool man, thanks...good info about the tape!
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5/4 drop LWB wood bed - 15x8 front 235/60 - 15x10 rear 295/50 2003 FORD Escape 1998 Honda VTR1000 |
08-21-2004, 10:41 AM | #4 | |
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Quote:
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08-21-2004, 11:32 AM | #5 |
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thanks stocker
Yeh, I meant adhesive... bonehead "up too late after soaking in too many racing fumes" comment, should have never got on the PC last night, err...this morning.
So, does anyone just use the plain cheap cork ones? Or rubber preferred? Not too many comments here, guess it is not big deal.
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5/4 drop LWB wood bed - 15x8 front 235/60 - 15x10 rear 295/50 2003 FORD Escape 1998 Honda VTR1000 |
08-21-2004, 11:32 AM | #6 | |
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Quote:
3-M (OR PERMATEX) WEATHERSTRIP ADHEASIVE COMES IN A TUBE, & IS STICKIER THAN SNOT. I LIKE THE RUBBER GASKETS MUCH BETTER B/C THEY ARE REUSABLE, & THE CORK GASKETS MAKE A MAJOR MESS DURING REMOVAL. NOW FOR TRANS. PANS.... I USE NOTHING BUT CORK GASKETS. JOHN
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junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE. THERES ROOM FOR ALL OF GODS CREATURES RIGHT NEXT TO MY MASHED POTATOES// LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST Last edited by junkyardjohn; 08-21-2004 at 11:40 AM. |
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08-21-2004, 11:49 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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- Mike - 1972 K20 LWB 350/350/205 RIP El Jay |
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08-21-2004, 12:21 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
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junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE. THERES ROOM FOR ALL OF GODS CREATURES RIGHT NEXT TO MY MASHED POTATOES// LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST |
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08-22-2004, 02:35 AM | #9 |
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I tried the rubber ones when they first came out, but I was disappointed, so I prefer a good cork gasket. I use the thicker Felpro version (NOT the one with steel in it), glued to a straight valve cover flange with the 3M adhesive pictured above. I coat the head side with Permatex #3 or Super 300 liquid, let it soak in for a few minutes, then brush on some more. Load spreaders are definitely a plus, but not absolutely necessary if the flange is straight. The covers can be removed & replaced (brush on more Permatex) if you need to set valves, etc., and generally don't cause a mess if you take them off a few years later. Due to shrinkage, you do usually need to retighten cork gaskets after a couple of weeks, & again after a few years.
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08-23-2004, 01:31 AM | #10 |
Lovin' Life in Miss.!
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Junkyard John, That 3m stuff holds up fine to the heat and oil? Never used it in anything but door jamb weather strip. And yes that suff is stickier than snot.
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08-23-2004, 02:53 PM | #11 |
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YEP .... WORKS GREAT. I'VE BEEN USING IT FOR YEARS. I PUT BOLTS THRU THE HOLES IN THE VALVE COVER WHILE THE GLUE IS DRYING, SO THE HOLES WILL LINE UP. JOHN
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junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE. THERES ROOM FOR ALL OF GODS CREATURES RIGHT NEXT TO MY MASHED POTATOES// LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST |
08-23-2004, 03:07 PM | #12 |
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I have to install some better valve cover gaskets. I used the cork ones and each one has a slow leak and it leaks onto the exhaust manifold and starts to stink. Gonna get me a set of Fel Pro's when I do change them out. Could also have something to do with using the chrome valve covers I have. They just don't seem to seal up worth sh!t
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08-23-2004, 03:35 PM | #13 |
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Biggest problem with the stamped covers is the flanges bend. First thing to do after cleaning is to straighten the flanges, then glue on the gasket with the weatherstrip adhesive. Then when you install, use a torque wrench and do not overtighten or you will bend the flanges again. Weatherstrip adhesive is yellow, looks like snot, sticks like snot, but it sure don't taste like snot!
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08-23-2004, 03:37 PM | #14 |
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I've started using some new Fel Pro ones that I like alot. They have a thin piece of metal in the middle with rubber rtv material on both sides. Very easy to put on since they stay in shape and reusable. There is warnings all over them not to use additional rtv. They aren't cheap, but have been refreshing compared to the others I've used. They come with the little valve cover reinforcement pieces if you need them also.
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08-24-2004, 12:36 AM | #15 |
Lovin' Life in Miss.!
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I have never had a problem with valve cover leaks. But it is hell cleanin em up when I take em off. I've allways staighten the tin, rtv both sides of the gasket, and use the long spreader? bars. Dont use a torque wrench...but my calibrated elbow says it's around 10'lbs. Re-using a gasket sounds cool. So long as it doesn't leak.
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08-24-2004, 01:02 AM | #16 |
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3M super
The nickname for that 3M super weatherstrip adhesive that JUNKYARDJOHN refers to is "GORILLA SNOT". If you ever get some on your fingers, you'll know where the nickname came from.
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08-24-2004, 02:18 AM | #17 |
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If you use the yellow stuff, it slips around less (& dries faster) if you press the gasket down, then raise it up until it gets stringy, then blow on the strings a little before you stick it back down. This is not stuff you want to use on something you might want to take apart anytime soon. It resists hot oil pretty well, although after 20 years or so it turns kinda brownish. Gasoline will soften it after a few hours of soaking, though.
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08-24-2004, 03:33 AM | #18 |
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i HATE cork gaskets the leak and leak and leak some more. i want to try a set of them rubber ones with steel centers. a guy at the local parts a rama had a big freakin stack of them for 10 a set and for some stupid reason i didnt buy them and the next parts a rama is in the beginning of october so im gonna get some then.
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08-24-2004, 10:30 AM | #19 |
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If I were to use my torque wrench on these, what is the proper torque? I've always tightened them by feel.
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5/4 drop LWB wood bed - 15x8 front 235/60 - 15x10 rear 295/50 2003 FORD Escape 1998 Honda VTR1000 |
08-24-2004, 12:49 PM | #20 |
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I bought some expensive rubber/reusable ones and on stock heads they leak worse than anything I've ever seen-I don't think they can seal against the rough finish of the casting-but if you have late model or aftermarket heads that are machined smooth they would be great
old stock heads cork works best IME-I also use the gorilla snot on the valve cover side and silicone on the heads side(rubbed in and let dry) I had the same gaskets on a car once for 4 years-many R&Rs and never leaked
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