Power Door Lock Actuator Recommendation

[damnyankee36]

I have installed Audiovox brand door locks on a couple of cars in the past and didn't have problems with the actuator force being able to move the latch mechanism.

But it seems these truck latches are a lot harder to move and the Audiovox won’t cut it. I have seen a recommendation or two on quality actuators but only one, A1 Electric, appeared to have good results. Does anybody else have ACTUAL experience with other actuators?

I am using repro latches at the moment. Other than the appearance, the original look like they still might be good. I’m wondering if they might be easier to operate.

I also noticed that the stroke on this latch is very short and it appears to be affecting how the actuators operate. I’m using the 5-wire type where each lock knob will operate the other without the need for actual switches. I don’t think the latch is allowing the actuator enough stroke to operate the other.

Any advice?

Thanks!

[halfstep]

You may want to look into Modoinnovations.com. They sell power lock kits and made a part for these trucks specifically to improve the power door lock performance. If you go this way, let us know how it works out.

https://modoinnovations.com/collecti...stallation-kit

[damnyankee36]

Thanks, halfstep. I pulled the trigger on the A1 actuators before I saw your response.

Modo Innovations seem to be overkill to me. I don't see an issue with the rod bending although it's a way better setup as far as the actual connection to the lock knob rod compared to the typical sleeve that is friction secured with screws.

We'll see...

[LNP]

I have AutoLoc which is similar to what you have. When I installed mine I started doing it as the instructions say and I look on here for what others did. And I found I was havin the same issue everyone else did. So I got a light inside the door looked at the latch/lock mechanism. Ok so I see what the problem is. The lever end they want you to attach the solenoid is shorter than the levers end that the outside door lock moves. Easy cure in my eyes as leverage is king and the outside door lock has it all. Here is a pics showing the short end circled in red and you can see where I attached my solenoid rod. I did have to drill the hole for the rod. The door locks and opens super easy. The second photo shows circled in red the rod for the interior door lock knob rod.

[damnyankee36]

Excellent idea! That little bit extra leverage and the increased stroke of the actuator just might do the trick. I can see I only have to reverse the polarity.

Now, I wished you would have posted this before I bought the A1 actuators, but I will probably better off with a quality one anyway.

Thank you!

[LNP]

You could send them back. The leverage increase makes it as strong as the high dollar one. But up to you hopefully this will help someone. Yes the two wires have to be switched positions. Easy to do.

[damnyankee36]

Originally Posted by LNP

Here is a pics showing the short end circled in red and you can see where I attached my solenoid rod. I did have to drill the hole for the rod.

Harley, I just noticed something. How did you secure the actuator rod to the lock mechanism? I know one end has the "button" which usually attaches to the actuator.

Did you bend the end 90 degrees and 90 again in the opposite direction?

Another thing I am concerned about is getting the adjustment correct. I'm sure I would have to tweak it as I know I wouldn't get it right the first time.

[LNP]

Originally Posted by damnyankee36

Harley, I just noticed something. How did you secure the actuator rod to the lock mechanism? I know one end has the "button" which usually attaches to the actuator.

Did you bend the end 90 degrees and 90 again in the opposite direction?

Another thing I am concerned about is getting the adjustment correct. I'm sure I would have to tweak it as I know I wouldn't get it right the first time.

Both ends of the rod is bent in a double 90 so I never have to worry about it coming loose. I took and put the rod thru both pieces then with the actuator in the unlock (down position) held it still while using a scratch awl to mark one screw hole to be drilled. Its tricky but worked great. To keep the actuator in the same spot while you mark the hole use a zip tie so the actuator piston rod doesnt pull out. Hope this helps

[damnyankee36]

Harley, your design worked perfecty! The rod mount location on the latch allows the use of nearly the full stroke of the actuator. You really can't get it any closer than this.

Thank you!

[LNP]

Originally Posted by damnyankee36

Harley, your design worked perfecty! The rod mount location on the latch allows the use of nearly the full stroke of the actuator. You really can't get it any closer than this.

Thank you!

Thanks I'm glad it worked out for you as well.