55.2-59 battery cut off

[popeyestruck]

Anyone use something like this for security? Its only $32 on amazon and pretty simple to use. If its not simple I probably will get to the point where I'm not using it

[qbeanie]

Can you post the link to the product?

[popeyestruck]

Just google auto battery cut off or go on amazon and search auto battery cut off. Theres all different designs but this is the general idea

[Hcb3200]

The original post said for security. this would work for that purpose only if you hide it somewhere not easily accessible. Since most of "our year" trucks have hood access from the grill without a lock then as soon as I see that thing on or near the battery. its easy just to move the wires to a single post.
They make some that connect directly to the battery post. even a jumper cable or a think piece of wire can be used to make the connection.

I prefer the old simple toggle switch under the dash on one of mine/under seat in another that just kills the power to the coil or the fuel pump (or both) and it is not going anywhere for a couple of bucks.

NOW if you going to need to disconnect ALL of your power often for a multitude of reasons and you don't want to be jumping under the hood every time ( or under the seat or wherever your battery is) then the remote switch is a good option) or some edit of full cutoff switch.

[dsraven]

personally I like the mechanical cut off switches because they don't rely on electrical power to operate. I have vehicles that sit for extended periods and parasitic loads from stereos or security systems can draw a battery down to nothing over the course of a couple months. some of these mechanical switches are key operated for security reasons. it depends what you want the switch for i guess. ensure the cut off switch is rated for the max amp draw for your project.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by dsraven

personally I like the mechanical cut off switches because they don't rely on electrical power to operate. I have vehicles that sit for extended periods and parasitic loads from stereos or security systems can draw a battery down to nothing over the course of a couple months. some of these mechanical switches are key operated for security reasons. it depends what you want the switch for i guess. ensure the cut off switch is rated for the max amp draw for your project.

Good point there. If I let my 98 BMW 528I sit too long and the battery goes dead the only way I have had to charge the battery is crawl through the back seat to the battery that is in the far right corner of the truck and the trunk latch needs electricity to work.

I think I have that switch on My Amazon watch list though.

They will allegedly handle 500 amps https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disco...5&sr=1-15&th=1

On a TF it wouldn't be hard to mount one out of site under the battery box and maybe even have a hide from site shield in front of it with it in the cable to the starter.

You would want a wire running from the battery to the fuse block to keep power to the memory on the radio if you have a newer radio in it that looses it's pre set stations when you disconnect the battery.

It will deter the guy who plans to hot wire the truck and drive it off or has a hand full of keys that fit these trucks with the stock switch in them. It won't stop the pro who has an order for that model of truck or that exact truck. A lot of those use repo rigs now and don't fool with even getting in the vehicle when they snag it. Wheel in, back up and run the wheel lift under it pick it up and gone. At big shoes they might only tow it a few blocks to a waiting enclosed trailer.

[nvrdone]

This might work OK if you have a hidden battery like the AD pickups do.
MY idea is that when I put in my tilt column it will have the headlight dimmer switch on the turn signal lever. Then I will wire the starter thru the original dimmer switch. That way the starter won't work unless you push the dimmer switch to the right setting. May also wire the ignition power thru that switch.
Just an idea still in the thinking stages.

[Hcb3200]

My current truck has enough quirks I doubt even if they got out of first gear much less started. And if they did they probably run into something anyway. Or they tear it up trying to start it.

So always say good insurance and a copy of every receipt for every part purchased and work paid for. well before anything security wise.

[vintovka]

There's a number of these available but some have bad reviews including mention of fire hazard. I use a fool proof mechanical cutoff with a removable key. I found keyfob remotes are nice --UNTIL their battery is dead.

[leegreen]

I'd be a little bit concerned about the reliability of my truck depending on a fancy yet only $30 piece of amazon electronics like that.

I used a manual reset circuit breaker for all the power to my fuse panels, I can pop that breaker to prevent drain or as a security measure.
Looks like this one
https://www.amazon.ca/RED-WOLF-Troll...dp/B08R5DDG5J/
but buy with care, I have seen some of these live short lives. The one in my truck has a couple years now and I have had others that lasted decades.

A hidden kill switch seems the easiest way to disable your truck, short of an alarm system. I've not done either so far.

[mr48chev]

This keyed cat switch should handle any amp load a truck could put on it if you have a place to hide it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C9DJCF3V...T1zcF9kZXRhaWw

[57tailgater]

FWIW I am using a Cole Hersee disconnect like the one mr48chev described for the main power cutoff from the battery and then a breaker like leegreen described for my megafuse protection between the disconnect and the fuse panel.

[jwhotrod]

first of all, my first thought about disconnects is not about security, its about safety. I will not wire a car that does not have a disconnect you can reach from the drivers seat. i have seen too many cars burn from electrical shorts and know a few that have been saved (including occupants). Ive been on a campaign in the NSRA to include a disconnect in the safety inspections. i have a friend who almost died when he got trapped in a 54 Ford F100 that got a short in the door wiring filled the truck with smoke and couldn't get out. The only thing that saved him was the disconnect, we then brke a window and got him out. Needless to say we rewired the truck and turned the inside door handles mechanical. its one thing to not be able to get in, but you should slways be able to get out.

[Rickysnickers]

If you want a battery cutoff, then why not use something like this, https://www.amazon.com/Moroso-74101-...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

The drag racers use this type of cutoff. You could just hide it out of site.

[dsraven]

thats what I am currently using and have used in the past on different vehicles.

[vintovka]

I cannot tell you the number of times my cutoff has come in handy - actually essential when working on anything electrical.

[mr48chev]

The Moroso switch is a good one and one of the more popular ones that you see in the tail panel of drag cars. The bad for us is that it doesn't prevent theft unless it is well hidden such as under the seat where you can easily reach it standing with the door open but it isn't visible without getting down and looking under the seat.

[1project2many]

first of all, my first thought about disconnects is not about security, its about safety.

The first instruction of many, many repairs is "Disconnect negative battery cable." Most folks don't really think this is an important step.

[vintovka]

Like others i believe a cut-off is an essential. Its location is key. Should be in easy reach both while seated in drivers and when door is open. I like the removable "key" type for peace of mine when left unattended even at shows or parked in sketchy areas. Have mine low on left side near floor and cab pocket. Its not visible when door is closed yet handy when needed. I use mine everytime i plan to park for an extended time and i think its saving the battery. Being accessible with the door open is really handy during repairs and turning it off leaves my power steps down where i need them.

[dennislbrooks]

I took a little different approach as far as security - but not cutoff per say. The inside cable hood release is from a 72 and you can see the second release on the front. I also have 2 batteries and the auxiliary battery has a solenoid to isolate from the starting battery when the key is off. There is a hidden manual release also.

But the shutoffs do come in handy. A cutoff with my setup would just require it to be under the hood.

Of course they can still be stolen with more effort.

[mr48chev]

I've been thinking about doing a hood cable setup on my 48. We seem to have too many guys in my home area who will walk up to your car or truck and open the hood or pop the taillight down on a 56 Chevy car to show their buddy they know how to open it or just flat don't understand the don't touch if it isn't yours concept.