55.2-59 Door hinge captured nut

[8man]

I had to cut the bottom bolt of the driver's side lower door hinge to get it off. When I was trying to back the bolt out, the captured nut inside the frame stretched the steel holding it in place, and the nut started to spin. So, I cut the bolt to get the door off so I could keep moving.

Now that I have the cab clean and home, I've been trying to get the remaining part of the bolt out. I am not having any success.

My last attempt was to use a set of vise grips over the nut to try and hold it against the frame so it wouldn't move and use another vice grip to back the bolt out. All I succeeded in doing was stretch the steel capture some more when the nut still moved.

Any ideas on how to get this bolt out?

Thanks.

[1project2many]

I cut that section of my door out to repair the cages. I figured it was an easy repair since the welds would all be hidden. You might be able to drill two holes on either side of the bolt to insert small punches into so the captured nut is recaptured. Then heat the bolt to glowing to help with removal. But you're not going to be able to access those holes to install the door because they'll be covered by the hinges.

[8man]

Thanks, 1Project. I was thinking of cutting it out and rewelding it.

[dsraven]

my advice, do it right the first time.
those areas of the door are prone to cracking the welds that hold that part to the door. possibly check that out first and if you need to repair the area then the repair to the broken bolt becomes that much easier. siezed and removed bolts usually leave behind some threads that are not awesome so I recommend to replace the caged nut.
there are a couple of you tubes on repairing that door area. elderlyiron has one that shows the old part and how the nuts are spotted on, the replacement part and some discrepancies there. google
55-59 chevy truck lower door hinge bracket installation
all the spare doors i have need the repair done, thats how common it is for those spot welds to crack. when they do it becomes impossible to adjust the door and have it stay adjusted correctly becuase that bracket allows movement.
here is the new replacement part so you can get an idea of what it looks like, price, etc
https://classicparts.com/1955-59-low...e-bracket-left
beware that the new part is not usually a direct fit, some adjustments to shape may be required, see the elderlyiron video, which does a good job of showing the process

[dsraven]

also, as a heads up, check the whole door for cracks and brackets that need a spot weld redone. the more rigid the door is the easier it becomes to adjust the door and have it stay adjusted. when done, and the hinge pins and bushings are also nice and tight, install the door and adjust it to fit the opening of the cab. then drill a small hole in the door into the hinge, down where the bolts are, so when the door is removed for body work or paint etc it can easily be put back in the correct spot and further adjustments with freshly painted parts are that much easier

[8man]

Raven, thanks for the info.

I'll check out the YouTube as suggested. I had it dipped, so all the warts show up, and there aren't many. I haven't found any cracks, two broken welds and one area on the floorboard under the clutch that has 5 little pinholes from rust.

After I check the YouTube, inspect that hinge area again, I will figure out what to do.

Thanks again.

[mr48chev]

If I figure out which doors I am cutting up to get the parts to make my extended doors for my build I'll be able to cut that section out of the left overs for show and tell or throw in a box.

[8man]

Thanks. I will be back on the truck tomorrow, and will check out the doors carefully then.

[dsraven]

sounds good. snap some pics and post'em up for others in the same situation.

[Clarance J]

Hello 8man. I found a way to fix the door hinge cage nuts missing problem for my 55.2. No weld, and no loss of adjustability. It's hard to explain but I do have pictures on my build page that show what I fabbed up.
Go to...Projects and builds.....Page 8.
Look for Just another old truck......Page 12 and the pictures will be #282 and #283. I hope this may help you or someone else in this situation.

Clarance J.
Aka Earl Cory

[8man]

Raven, will do.

Clarance, I'll check it out next.

[Oldtruckwelder]

Originally Posted by 8man

I had to cut the bottom bolt of the driver's side lower door hinge to get it off. When I was trying to back the bolt out, the captured nut inside the frame stretched the steel holding it in place, and the nut started to spin. So, I cut the bolt to get the door off so I could keep moving.

Now that I have the cab clean and home, I've been trying to get the remaining part of the bolt out. I am not having any success.

My last attempt was to use a set of vise grips over the nut to try and hold it against the frame so it wouldn't move and use another vice grip to back the bolt out. All I succeeded in doing was stretch the steel capture some more when the nut still moved.

Any ideas on how to get this bolt out?

Thanks.

8man
I was able to change out the caged nuts by finding and drilling out the spot welds that attached them and using the drilled holes for re attaching with plug welds.
Hope this helps
JT from SC

[8man]

Thanks Oldtruckwelder. That is on the radar.

[8man]

This was almost as easy as JT said it would be.

First, to drill out the spot welds.
IMG_1862 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
You can see the clip still in there even with the first hole on the left. I wound up making 2 holes on the left and chiseling it out, as the "clip" wasn't spot welded where the first hole was, but it was caught a little by the second weld. That side was bent up against the side of the clip, and that's why the weld didn't catch there, so they spot welded it again.

Then I straightened the clip up. I used a couple of chisels, one in the vice and one to straighten the clip on the other chisel.

IMG_1863 - Copy by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

You can see on the left side where it was not properly attached. I'm guessing this poor weld was what caused the majority of the problem. Yes, I painted it so that it won't rust as bad over the next 70 years.

I'll weld it back in over the weekend.

[mr48chev]

Boy howdy my brain isn't working this week, I was thinking about in the doors and I have a pair of door posts off a 50 out in the shed with every thing in them that I could have taken photos of.

[dsraven]

Well, don't feel too bad mr48, I also thought it was the part inside the door. Haha.

[8man]

Really, it was probably my description. I'll show the one hinge pocket on a door next.

[8man]

I haven't hooked up the MIG yet, but here is the picture of the one door hinge pocket that has issues. If you look at the bolt holes, there are some small holes close to them that appear to have rusted out. I was thinking about welding them up.

IMG_1864 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I didn't find any cracks, and the steel around them doesn't appear to be rusty.

[dsraven]

with the door open, grab the door underneath and try to lift the door like checking your hinge pins and bushings. if the inner door h9nge mount is compromised the door will move but the hinges won't.
nothing worse than trying to adjust a floppy door.
ok, maybe a little overstated....haha

[leegreen]

those almost look like burn through holes, like someone was heating the bolts and got the surrounding metal too hot. easy to do if the metal has thinned out with surface corrosion over the years

[8man]

Raven, I did check the doors for movement prior to removal. The hinges were good and there was no movement. I think you told me to do that on the last one, so I guess I can be taught.

Lee, you may be right, I hadn't thought of that. The truck was taken to a body shop for a crappy paint job before I got it, that may be the answer. Thanks.