What’s the very easiest fuel neck filler location

[michael bustamante]

ok all Y`all are showing fleet beds. Any ideas for a stepper?

[un4gvn!]

It's all about how much fabrication you want to do. I've seen pretty cool fuel fillers and I seen very dangerous looking fillers. Here is mine.

[andrewpclayton]

That looks outstanding but a lot of work.. the blazer side fill looks great but is it any kind of blasphemous?

[CharlieCanuck68]

Is there a kit for this? It look fantastic! I have a '68 so no wires to worry about, just reflector

[dan-67lwb]

Originally Posted by un4gvn!

It's all about how much fabrication you want to do. I've seen pretty cool fuel fillers and I seen very dangerous looking fillers. Here is mine.

That looks awesome and exactly like what i want to do. What vehicle is that setup from?

Thanks

[Already Gone]

Old thread and I previously posted in it but now have my rear tank installed. I had an ECE tank I bought about 15 years ago and I wanted the filler behind the marker light on drivers side. Installer suggested against that cause would have to use small fill hose so he came up with this fill spot and I like it.

[tim_mc]

Blazer side fill for me. I believe this is the 1970-only N18 option.

[Willie Makeit]

top / bed fill is my choice only because gas fillers in the side of the beds of one of these trucks looks out of place.

[LNP]

I did a top fill in the bed easy to fill havent spilled any gas yet doesnt take much time to do. I also like it in the bed because out of sight out of mind to gas thieves.

[LS short box]

I did the 69 Camaro tank with the fill behind the license plate. It was a bit award to fill but it worked well. I didn't do the bed fill because I had a wood bed and I was worried about gas staining the wood. The tank did hang down a bit low.

[Accelo]

Because of poor planning I had to figure out how to do my tank fill after painting.
I wanted to avoid redoing the paint if possible. Many of the options, like behind the taillight fill, just were not possible without the likelihood of paint damage.
So, after many failed inspirations I came up with this set up. I like it as it fills like a stock tank. Outside/slab-side of the truck remains stock. No leaning over the tail gate to fill the tank. Cap is easily accessible. It was one of the modifications from stock that worked out.

It's a modified Blazer fill. I cut the filler tube and rotated it 180 deg. The most difficult part was cutting the hole, in the channel, as I did not want it over sized. I also had to change the angle of the fill. I thought the tube was welded to the flat flange where it bolts in. Turns out it is brazed. Would have saved me a lot of work if I had known this.
I also have a tank vented in two areas. On is the stock tube that goes halfway up the factory fill. The other is from the top of the tank and ends in the stake pocket. It has a special fitting so water cannot run down the vent.

Works exceptionally well. It did require moving the lines on the tank I purchased. Which meant aluminum TIG welding.
It reminds me of Already Gone's set up with a slight twist.
Incredibly happy with the results.
Cheers.

[old51sedan]

Originally Posted by michael bustamante

ok all Y`all are showing fleet beds. Any ideas for a stepper?

Here's the way I did mine.

[un4gvn!]

I choose the side fill for this reason. I know a guy with a C20. He uses his truck for every day use. Not afraid to haul any thing. His in cab tank went bad so he needed a new tank. Me, I would have replaced the tank inside the cab. He wanted some thing custom. He installed a Blazer tank under the bed with the fill on top. One day he went to Lowes to pick up 30 4x8 sheets of plywood. On the way home he realised he forgot to get gas before going to Lowes. He was lucky a friend had a truck. They transferred all that plywood onto his truck to get to the gas fill. Doing this on the side of the road.

[un4gvn!]

The door set up is from a truck with an extra tank in the front part of the bed. There was never a tank installed, so the door was never used. I looked at a lot of trucks in the salvage yards trying to find a fill door before finding this one. I would open the gas door only to find it rusting or loose. The fill end behind the door is for a 55 Chevy. I was at a swap meet and saw this on a table a guy was selling after market body parts. It has the breather tube also. $25.00 brand new. I weld a section of 1 3/4 exhaust pipe to it to bring it close to the tank and a 5 inch long rubber fuel hose to connect it to the tank. Works fantastic.

[RustyBucket]

Is there a fill thru gas cap for our era trucks? The previous owner moved the gas fill on my Blazer behind the driver's side marker light and it's hard to remove the gas cap. The marker light is hinged at the rear & the front swings out. The marker light hole is pretty small to twist & remove the cap through. It'd be a big improvement to just open the light & stick the nozzle in. Tanks in advance

[xr4tic]

I installed a tanks inc. fuel tank with a push through cap in the back, cut a hole in the bed, and installed a cheap gas flap for a Jeep

Gas flap, you can also get these with designs on them:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0742K48KZ

[WorldsCrappiestTruck]

Reviving an old thread but wanted to document this for the next person looking at options.

I went with a ‘69 Camaro/Firebird tank, and opted to fill from the rear behind the license plate.

It required cutting the very rear frame “crossmember” a bit to clear the filler neck, but works very nicely if you don’t mind squatting down to fill your truck.

I bought a late model Caprice sedan rear license plate bracket off eBay which flips down…and adapted it to flip upward. Some cutting & grinding occurred on the bumper behind the license plate, but I’m VERY pleased with it. I wanted to keep the factory filler neck (used one of pjmorelands dummy kits) but didn’t want to cut my bed, fill through the floor, have piping in the bed that could get damaged by cargo, have a blazer schnozzle sticking out the side of the bed, fab up a crazy filler door setup etc etc.

The only downside is if you run out of gas. No way to really get a gas can in there to add fuel.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by WorldsCrappiestTruck

Reviving an old thread but wanted to document this for the next person looking at options.

I went with a ‘69 Camaro/Firebird tank, and opted to fill from the rear behind the license plate.

It required cutting the very rear frame “crossmember” a bit to clear the filler neck, but works very nicely if you don’t mind squatting down to fill your truck.

I bought a late model Caprice sedan rear license plate bracket off eBay which flips down…and adapted it to flip upward. Some cutting & grinding occurred on the bumper behind the license plate, but I’m VERY pleased with it. I wanted to keep the factory filler neck (used one of pjmorelands dummy kits) but didn’t want to cut my bed, fill through the floor, have piping in the bed that could get damaged by cargo, have a blazer schnozzle sticking out the side of the bed, fab up a crazy filler door setup etc etc.

The only downside is if you run out of gas. No way to really get a gas can in there to add fuel.

Nice work on the exhaust piping.

I would recommend spending some time making sure your non-vented fuel cap seats correctly and seals the fill. No sense pouring good fuel on the asphalt every time you accelerate.

[WorldsCrappiestTruck]

Originally Posted by HO455

Nice work on the exhaust piping.

I would recommend spending some time making sure your non-vented fuel cap seats correctly and seals the fill. No sense pouring good fuel on the asphalt every time you accelerate.

Thanks - exhaust was a geometry challenge.

Explain the fuel cap please. I don’t dump fuel when I take off - high & dry.

[HO455]

With the fuel fill barely above the top of the tank and farthest to the rear of the vehicle when you accelerate inertia forces the fuel to the rear of the tank. The harder you accelerate the harder the fuel is forced into the fill tube and against the cap. Under hard acceleration it is the same as raising the front of the tank so the whole tank is at a 45 degree angle. This is without taking any change of attitude of the vehicle in account. Having the front end lift and the rear of vehicle squat the chance of leakage is even worse.

I raced a 69 GTO for many years I learned that unless the cap was absolutely air tight when the car launched it would dribble fuel out of the cap. Which could lead to disqualification.

I've witnessed many early A-bodies and F-bodies running in street class at the drag strip literally gush 2 or more cups of fuel out the cap when launching (Even on street tires) due to poor sealing fuel caps or the use vented fuel caps.

[WorldsCrappiestTruck]

Thanks for those details. Still learning and reading….

The cap I have done not say “vented”, but a Google search shows 69 F-body vented caps readily available.

Is it as simple as just replacing my cap with a vented one?

There is indeed a vent on the tank - a line leaving the sending unit area, running to a chrome looking vent that I mounted to the crossmember.

I do not recall if the tank is baffled - I’ll go check that out.

[Palf70Step]

I used the side marker on my old 70 stepside. Just like this, but I went to the driver's side marker. I have not had truck for many years and lost some of my pictures on an old hard drive failure.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by WorldsCrappiestTruck

Thanks for those details. Still learning and reading….

The cap I have done not say “vented”, but a Google search shows 69 F-body vented caps readily available.

Is it as simple as just replacing my cap with a vented one?

There is indeed a vent on the tank - a line leaving the sending unit area, running to a chrome looking vent that I mounted to the crossmember.

I do not recall if the tank is baffled - I’ll go check that out.

You want to use the un-vented cap. Vented caps let air pass though the cap and under the wrong circumstances they'll let gas pass through too.

[WorldsCrappiestTruck]

As best I can tell….by the stamping and comparing photos of what I have to those on the interwebs,, I do have a non-vented cap.

[PbFut]

As far as caps. Vented or nonvented does not have anything to do with position of fill neck. You must use a vented cap if the tank is not otherwise vented. If not the tank will build pressure in heat or get a vacuum on a longer run. Both conditions not good for a fuel pump and can be very dangerous as well. All fuel tanks must have a vent of some sort.