Horn not shutting off

[Pinkdubai]

Working on my 1967 C-10 horn assembly. It is an aftermarket setup from Forever Sharp. I’ve looked through a number of posts related to the horn assembly but haven’t seen my specific issue yet. The problem I’m having is the turn signal cam compresses far enough down on the spring to touch the turn signal lever and screw when tightening the steering wheel hub. Once this occurs, the horn honks continuously I don’t feel like I’m over tightening at around 30 pounds of torque.

Would replacing the spring make a difference? I have also thought about covering the signal lever with rubber so when the compressed you don’t have metal touching metal. Maybe there is a spacer I’m missing.

Appreciate thoughts on the best way to resolve this issue.

[RustyPile]

Guessing here, but going by the single picture you posted, the problem is the "adaptor kit" you're using is wrong for the application..

The large spring is simply to put preload on the shaft top bearing.. The canceling cam gives the spring something to push against. Many aftermarket steering wheel adaptor kits are poorly designed.. The hub should bottom out against the shoulder on the shaft just below the splines.. Most of them, like yours, do not...

['68OrangeSunshine]

I have an issue currently with the Horn Button making contact at the wrong time or all times. '68 C/10 Stepside. Manual column. Three Spoke Wheel.
I first disconnected the Horn from the Horn Relay, but the constant clicking drove me nuts, so I pulled the plug from the Relay too.
I think the problem stems from an old upper bearing pack in the steering column. It's missing at least one ball bearing, maybe more.
[Truck is showing ~ 406,000 on the odometer.]
Also the screw holding the Turn Signal Lever to the T/S Switch fell out, and the Lever is loose on the dash.
To make turn signals, I use my Hand Signals. At night, I wear an orange safety glove with white reflective taping on it.
When I'm done refinishing my OEM Wheel in Fawn paint, I will try a new Upper Bearing Pack and re-attach the T/S lever.
If it still honks when not wanted, I'll try the Lower Bearing Pack, but that requires pulling the whole column out.

[Pinkdubai]

I checked the adapter and it does bottom out below the splines but only has 0.15 inch clearance to the turn signal. The cancelling cam is also 0.15 inches which forces it down on the turn signal lever resulting in the horn going off. Added another picture to show how tight it is without the cam and spring.

[slikside]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

I have an issue currently with the Horn Button making contact at the wrong time or all times. '68 C/10 Stepside. Manual column. Three Spoke Wheel.
I first disconnected the Horn from the Horn Relay, but the constant clicking drove me nuts, so I pulled the plug from the Relay too.
I think the problem stems from an old upper bearing pack in the steering column. It's missing at least one ball bearing, maybe more.
[Truck is showing ~ 406,000 on the odometer.]
Also the screw holding the Turn Signal Lever to the T/S Switch fell out, and the Lever is loose on the dash.
To make turn signals, I use my Hand Signals. At night, I wear an orange safety glove with white reflective taping on it.
When I'm done refinishing my OEM Wheel in Fawn paint, I will try a new Upper Bearing Pack and re-attach the T/S lever.
If it still honks when not wanted, I'll try the Lower Bearing Pack, but that requires pullimg the whole column out.

When the screw holding my turn signal lever in place fell out, I replaced it with a slightly larger, round headed wood screw. As the turn signal switch in which the lever resides is plastic, the new larger screw simply cut its own threads as I snugged it tight…that was 10+ years ago, and still holding.

[Richard]

I am curious here. My Forever Sharp wheel has the horn switch all built into the horn cap. Only uses the wiper mechanism from the stock setup. There is an adapter and the stock spring has nothing to do with horn contact.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by Pinkdubai

I checked the adapter and it does bottom out below the splines but only has 0.15 inch clearance to the turn signal. The cancelling cam is also 0.15 inches which forces it down on the turn signal lever resulting in the horn going off. Added another picture to show how tight it is without the cam and spring.

In one of your pictures, the splines are protruding above the hub. This doesn't seem correct to me. Are you working with a stock column or aftermarket?? If aftermarket, who is the manufacturer?? What do the instructions and diagrams that came with the steering wheel say about assembly sequence of the parts??

[Pinkdubai]

The truck has an aftermarket shaft put on by the previous owner. I’m not able to find any details regarding the manufacturer. As noted by Richard, I also have a one piece hub and cap from Forever Sharp, which fits the splines better but still results in the turn signal cam being compressed too far. It seems like I’m missing a piece that prevents the turn signal cam from sitting directly on top of the turn signal mechanism.

Appreciate all the comments so far.

[Extended Power]

Sweet!
I have the same issue.
Replaced the stock steering column with a CPP unit and a Forever Sharp steering wheel and adapter kit.
Now, I had the steering wheel on it before, and the horns decided to magically start blowing when I wasn't at home.
The wife called me and sadly before she could pull the relay plug, the gorns quit on their own. (Burnt out)

So I replaced the column with a CPP tilt and the Forever Sharp wheel...along with a new set of horns.
Same thing...the horns are on ALL THE TIME.
I have pulled the wheel off and looked at the horn button, but it is still grounding out somewhere, causing the horns to stay on.

I removed the spring that was in the top section, because I thought it was WAY too much pressure on the plastic signal canceller...no change.

It's gotta be grounded somewhere because the horn button does nothing right now. The circuit is grounded before it even gets to the horn button.

[RustyPile]

Maybe this will shed some light on the situation.. I have an aftermarket tilt column, brand unknown, and a Lecarra (Lokar) steering wheel and adaptor hub.. As you know all these aftermarket columns, regardless of the brand, use GM shafts, turn signal switches, shafts, and tilt mechanisms..

The turn signal went bad in my column.. When I disassembled the column, first thing I noticed was, although the key operated column lock feature was nonfunctional, the column locking plate was installed. The spring has to be there as it is used to preload the upper shaft's two bearings. Most of the locking mechanism is removed and not used. The lock plate must be in place to offer a "stop" for the spring to push against..

I thought about leaving the lock plate out, but too much of the shaft protruded through the hub, and also -- lo and Behold -- when I connected the battery cable, the horn started blowing continuously.. I removed the wheel and reinstalled the lock plate, and everything started working as it should..

[Pinkdubai]

To fix my issue, I removed the turn signal cancel cam and put the steering wheel back together. I then Installed a remote horn button, which works perfectly.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by Pinkdubai

To fix my issue, I removed the turn signal cancel cam and put the steering wheel back together. I then Installed a remote horn button, which works perfectly.

AAANNNDDD, you created another problem.. Now your turn signals have to be manually canceled... Invariably, you'll forget to cancel them after making a turn, and go down the road with people thinking you'll be making a turn....

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

AAANNNDDD, you created another problem.. Now your turn signals have to be manually canceled... Invariably, you'll forget to cancel them after making a turn, and go down the road with people thinking you'll be making a turn....

Yup. That's what Truckers call, ''A Blinker Fluid Leak.''