NO-START Gripe

['68OrangeSunshine]

'71 GMC Jimmy, K/1500 350/SM465/NP203/12Bolt 3.73.
Truck won't start since yesterday. Got a jump leaving a union meeting Tuesday.
Truck stalled again as I got on my driveway and I couldn't restart to move under shade. I put a 15 watt solar panel on the dashtop to recharge. Day later Batt read 12.8 VDC but wouldn't start.
Only a single CLICK from the solenoid.
System has been modified to use a Ford type solenoid on the fender.

[franken]

Jump from the big battery terminal to the small S-terminal on the ford solenoid.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by franken

Jump from the big battery terminal to the small S-terminal on the ford solenoid.

I'll try that tomorrow.
Battery was holding a charge of 12.87 vdc.

[franken]

Measure the voltage with a load on the battery or it may lie to you.

['68OrangeSunshine]

I disconnected the Fusible link -- between Fender Connector and positive Batt Terminal.
Rang good.

[franken]

Seems odd that it clicked the solenoid w/ a bad fusible link.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

I disconnected the Fusible link -- between Fender Connector and positive Batt Terminal.
Rang good.

That's not possible.. You probably have something screwy going on...

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

That's not possible.. You probably have something screwy going on...

I only disconnected the Fusible Link for a VOM check. Zero ohms means it's good. I reconnected right after.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

I only disconnected the Fusible Link for a VOM check. Zero ohms means it's good. I reconnected right after.

I'm glad you cleared that up.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Still no joy. My ''Expert'' told me to clean up my terminals with the wire brush terminal tool. No effect. And I also shorted the Batt In lead to the S Terminal on the F-Type solenoid. It clicked, but the Starter did not turn.
Still there's another solenoid, The Bendix type on the Starter itself. He said to poke it with a broom handle to maybe free up the contacts. No joy. Of course I'm not sure the end of the broom even hit the right thingie.

Hoping I do not have to replace the Starter. It was new in 2007.
With the tight fitting Heddmans, I hafta pull the headers to get at the starter.

[dmjlambert]

Let's see pictures of your battery terminals.

Connect a voltmeter. Use alligator clip test wires available at the car parts stores.



Connect the negative lead (com) of the voltmeter to the battery negative terminal. Connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to various places where you will check the voltage while you are trying to crank the engine.
1. the positive battery terminal
2. the input from battery main terminal of the ford solenoid.
3. the output to starter main terminal of the ford solenoid.
4. the S start terminal of the ford solenoid.
5. the main terminal of the starter.
6. the engine block (expected to be 0V but if you get some voltage your battery negative cable is bad or badly connected.)

[franken]

Jumper cable from battery + to the original solenoid. Jump to the S-terminal.
Measure battery voltage while the solenoid is engaged.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by franken

Jumper cable from battery + to the original solenoid. Jump to the S-terminal.
Measure battery voltage while the solenoid is engaged.

Kinda hard to do alone.

I tried a jump start with booster cables from the pickup to the Jimmy. No joy.

[franken]

Not really.
Semipermanently jump from the big terminal to the S-terminal.
Connect one end of the jumper cable to the big terminal.
Connect the voltmeter to the battery.
Touch the other end of the jumper cable to the battery + terminal.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by franken

Not really.
Semipermanently jump from the big terminal to the S-terminal.
Connect one end of the jumper cable to the big terminal.
Connect the voltmeter to the battery.
Touch the other end of the jumper cable to the battery + terminal.

OK. Somehow I was imagining being under the truck. But I can set the gator clip and stand up in front of the Battery. Much better.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

Let's see pictures of your battery terminals.

Connect a voltmeter. Use alligator clip test wires available at the car parts stores.



Connect the negative lead (com) of the voltmeter to the battery negative terminal. Connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to various places where you will check the voltage while you are trying to crank the engine.
1. the positive battery terminal
2. the input from battery main terminal of the ford solenoid.
3. the output to starter main terminal of the ford solenoid.
4. the S start terminal of the ford solenoid.
5. the main terminal of the starter.
6. the engine block (expected to be 0V but if you get some voltage your battery negative cable is bad or badly connected.)

I saw a package of Gator Clip Test Leads in Autozone for about $35!
I remember when you could get those at Radio Shack for under $5.

[VetteVet]

Read this and see if it helps.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=655903

[franken]

You can use a bit of wire for no money from under the truck but feel free to make it as difficult as possible.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by franken

You can use a bit of wire for no money from under the truck but feel free to make it as difficult as possible.

I may have to go with the "Most Difficult" option.
The Starter is tucked inside a 'cage' made by the Passenger side Headers. [ I did intend to paint them anyway.] To even get a clip onto the S Terminal of the OEM Bendix Solenoid, the RH header has to move. The Type F solenoid goes Clunk if shorted with a screwdriver across the S terminal and the Batt In Terminal.
I'm pricing new Starters at Jegs, Rockauto and Carparts.com.
Current starter unit was installed 4/2008.
Sixteen years is a good run, I guess.
Predicament is that the truck "landed" on my sloped front Driveway and I'd like to move it to a better spot for mission creep maintenance.
If I had a pal handy to watch the street, I could try a back coast into the intersection and pop the clutch. If it doesn't start, we could rig a ''Truck Rodeo" and he couLd drive the Stepside and tow me into posItion..

[dmjlambert]

Is item #2 one of these emergency repair terminals? I changed a starter because of one of those, and I gotta say I don't like them worth a damn. Even if the cables appear nice and clean, they can betray.



Is item #1 the negative battery cable, is there a nice big fat cable I can't see that goes to the engine?

[dmjlambert]

You can do all of the tests on my list except 5 without getting in the cage, and a test may reveal something.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

Attachment 2393689

Is item #2 one of these emergency repair terminals? I changed a starter because of one of those, and I gotta say I don't like them worth a damn. Even if the cables appear nice and clean, they can betray.



Is item #1 the negative battery cable, is there a nice big fat cable I can't see that goes to the engine?

Item 1 is the Negative Terminal. The Quick Disconnect lead is disconnected so nothing bleeds off while sitting. Yes. the Positive Lug [Item #1] can be replaced. I can do that tomorrow. Definitely should be done before buying new compnents.