Oil Canister Filter -> Screw-On Filter Adaptor Questions

[cshanek]

Hey fellow C10/C20 gearheads,

A buddy and I recently rebuilt my 1964 C20 283, and I just recently reached 750 miles using our break-in oil, and figured I would install an oil filter canister to screw-on oil filter adaptor while I was at it, since my canister filter setup is leaking. I was hoping the screw-on adaptor would make changes more convenient, and I was hoping to reduce or eliminate oil leaks. I ended up purchasing this adaptor (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and did some reading (though clearly not enough), and bought this screw on filter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1). As I am sure some of you have already assumed, that combination was not ideal. I ended up spewing out my 5 quarts of synthetic oil rather quickly. Now on to the questions.

1. What filter should I use for the adaptor I purchased? This answer might depend on the next question.
2. The screw-on adaptor I purchased does not contain a bypass filter and I initially bolted it flush without the bypass filter. Should I bolt it on the bypass filter or buy a screw-on filter with the bypass filter included?
3. Does the bypass filter allow oil to bypass the larger filter if oil pressure drops?
4. I read that the little bypass reservoir needs to be installed facing the oil pan side, not the exhaust exhaust. Why is this?

[cshanek]

How can I go about moving this to the 60-66 message board?

[dmjlambert]

I have asked for move from one forum to another by clicking the report post button that looks like a triangle with ! in it, and asked could you please move it.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by cshanek

How can I go about moving this to the 60-66 message board?

Alternatively, you could ask to move the query to the Engine and Drivetrain forum, where more engine-savvy people might see it.
My '68 292 was set up for the spin-on filters. PF-35 initially, now Wix 51060.

EDIT: I see we're magically in 60/66 World. Cool.

[AcampoDave]

The product in your link is a bypass which is different from an adapter. I use this one on my 283 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...BoCWMoQAvD_BwE I think your link is strictly a bypass for engines already made for a spin on filter. I've also had this one already installed on a 283 I've owned before https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...RoCGGsQAvD_BwE If I recall correctly, the second one (Mr. Gasket) uses a mechanical bypass underneath (like in your link) which is not included and the Transdapt uses a Ford filter with the bypass built into it.

[AcampoDave]

BTW, the flimsy nut on the transdapt only serves to keep it from falling down when you remove the filter. It's the compression you create by tightening the filter down on the nipple that compresses the O-ring between the block and the aluminium disc. Many people in the reviews falsly assumed they needed a beefier nut to avoid leaks when they really just needed to crank the filter down pretty tight.

[cshanek]

Ah, thanks for the pointers/feedback. For a while I was looking at https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-1134?rrec=true prior to purchasing the bypass from Amazon, but got scared off by the torquing horror stories in the reviews section. You'd prefer the Transdapt+for filter setup? Also what is the risk of not having a bypass filter?

[AcampoDave]

I have been happy with the Transdapt. At first, I too was under the false impression that the little tin nut was responsible for torquing the disc to create the seal. Consequently, it was leaking, and i had enough. I bought a new Transdapt O-ring from Summit and resolved to figure it out.

The center hole in the disc is not threaded and after weighing things over I came to the conclusion that what I needed to do was crank the filter down quite tightly, using it to firmly sandwich the new O-ring between the disc and the block.

Sure enough, cranking it down with more force than one would normally use on a more modern motor that was initially designed for a spin on solved the leaking.

As I lied there on the floor that day, thinking about the "tin" nut, I could only conclude that it keeps the adapter disc from falling off and splashing down into the drain pan when one removes the filter. I now have a few O-rings on reserve for just in case, but it's not leaking and hasn't been since I figured it out.

The instructions call for a Ford filter with a built in bypass and I have never considered deviating from the recommended filter. There is no reason to since they really don't cost any more than a non-bypass filter and I assume the results of attempting it would be less than satisfactory.

Edit: BTW, At present I am using the Wix cross-referenced version of whatever filter Transdapt recommends