Previous owner '68

[raggedjim]

I needed a way to position the transmission for tear down. I could have bought a nice transmission vice off of the web for less than $100 but I'm cheap and always looking for a chance to use what I have.

So I found a dolly I bought cheap at a local trade day. Welded some, drilled some and ended up with this.

I do have to attach it to my lift table for some counter balance when the transmission is vertical, but otherwise it works fine.

Looks like I have some cleaning to do on the bottom side.

[clay68c10]

That's a nice setup.

[68Gold/white]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

Thanks Zicc!

Finished tearing down the heads. I used a lever type spring compressor my uncle made to remove the keepers.

Clamped the heads down to my table and started levering the springs. Also used a magnetic pickup tool and a pick to remove the keepers.

If you're curious, the heads are 333882 on drivers side and 42624 on passengers side. The intake valves are 1.94" and exhaust is 1.5". Not the best heads, but they will work for me.

The 624 and 882 heads are both 76 cc chamber volume heads. Not sure on all of the other particulars. Yes, both are thin castings, making them crack prone. I'd run "em if they check out.

Cool transmission holder!!!

[raggedjim]

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

The 624 and 882 heads are both 76 cc chamber volume heads. Not sure on all of the other particulars. Yes, both are thin castings, making them crack prone. I'd run "em if they check out.

Cool transmission holder!!!

I'm gonna run 'em. I'm too old to be doing burnouts and hotrodding anyway!

Rg

[raggedjim]

Got the heads back. Spent some quality time with the spring compressor. it was fun until I figured out that the 462624 head has recessed pockets for the exhaust valve springs but the 333882 head doesn't! So I had to get the shorter exhaust springs for the 882. Anyway, I know people hate these heads but they ran for years and I'm cheap so I'm using them.

[raggedjim]

Put the heads on the block and got them torqued down. Also went ahead and preloaded the lifters.

I like to keep the order of my bolts and keep a cheat sheet so I don't forget to torque my bolts properly.

I use this method to set my lifters, seems to work well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EGlb_VpTAw&t=456s

[raggedjim]

I went ahead and installed the timing bolt cover and harmonic damper. I set the engine to TDC before I did but it really isn't necessary.

[raggedjim]

This little guy showed up. Cute little guy but I'm not sure where he came from. I'm going to keep him but I'm getting rid of the gold chain, I've never liked them.

[raggedjim]

Got the oil pump and oil pan installed and decided to pre-oil the engine. I've got a cheap oiling tool and I use my bit brace auger to drive it. Works well, got everything oiled up in about 3 minutes (had to rotate the crank a few times).

[68Gold/white]

What kind of sealer did you use on your head bolt threads?

[raggedjim]

PTFE tape with a dab of Loctite head bolt and water jacket sealant.

[wpsharpshooter]

Who are you using for engine work? I used to use Tuckers waaaay back when.. Im assuming they are still open.

[raggedjim]

Tuckers, as far as I know they are the only game in town. They used to do some engine assembly also but they have quit doing that.

Do you know the name of the driveshaft guy in Paris? I'm going to need one.

[wpsharpshooter]

You are referencing Wiles. https://www.wilesdriveshaft.com/locations/?i=72258

[raggedjim]

Originally Posted by wpsharpshooter

You are referencing Wiles. https://www.wilesdriveshaft.com/locations/?i=72258

That's it, thanks, Rg

[raggedjim]

Did a little more assembly. Waiting on parts, no ones fault but my own.

[raggedjim]

Tilted the transmission to get more fluid out. I don't care how many times you shake these things, there's still fluid in there.

[raggedjim]

While waiting on the trans to drain I took a look at the 73-87 style clam shell mounts and engine stands. There is a tech on how to modify these stands and mounts to work with the 67-72 frames, but I always thought it would be easier to space the frame on the 67-72 (5.5" tall) to the height of the 73-87 frames (6" tall). So I put these spacers in. I won't know if it works until I bolt the engine in but it seems to make sense in the cartoon world I live in. At least it all bolted togther!

[68Gold/white]

I have a set of those later frame brackets, somewhere....

Years ago I found a pair, bought cheap. I think the clamshell mounts are way better than the 67-72 small block mounts. 72 big block mounts are the best, if you can find them.

My thought on fitting them. Bolt everything to the engine, lower it onto cross member. Make everything level and straight. Mark your holes, remove engine, drill holes. I had never thought about potential needing spacers.

I am looking forward to your solution!!!

[raggedjim]

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

I have a set of those later frame brackets, somewhere....

Years ago I found a pair, bought cheap. I think the clamshell mounts are way better than the 67-72 small block mounts. 72 big block mounts are the best, if you can find them.

My thought on fitting them. Bolt everything to the engine, lower it onto cross member. Make everything level and straight. Mark your holes, remove engine, drill holes. I had never thought about potential needing spacers.

I am looking forward to your solution!!!

Well, my thought is that the 85 truck cross member and engine stands are now in the 68 frame. The bottom of the stand should bolt right in it's regular place on the 85 cross member and if I space the top of the stands up to 6" (1/2" above the 68 frame) then everything should line up! We'll see!

If you lower the stand by 1/2" by bolting the top of the stands to the shorter 68 frame the bottom of the stand changes geometry but by using the spacers the geometry should remain the same.

Wish me luck!

[zicc1835]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

Well, my thought is that the 85 truck cross member and engine stands are now in the 68 frame. The bottom of the stand should bolt right in it's regular place on the 85 cross member and if I space the top of the stands up to 6" (1/2" above the 68 frame) then everything should line up! We'll see!

If you lower the stand by 1/2" by bolting the top of the stands to the shorter 68 frame the bottom of the stand changes geometry but by using the spacers the geometry should remain the same.

Wish me luck!

GOOD LUCK ...I like it... we will all know the out come soon