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Old 08-14-2024, 02:07 AM   #51
Kalums
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Re: Another carb help...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 72SB View Post
aside from mismatched timing marks and pointer, OP had a not stock, but perfectly fine, Edelbrock carb with non-stock, cut, fuel line feeding it that had a soft fuel line to filter than to carb that was sketchy and leaked.

A more secure fuel line routing and part specific to OP's carb was shown to eliminate his fire starter setup

OP did not have a "stock" setup where a pre-bent hard line went from FP to carb.....so a better fuel line and filter was suggested to OP for "his" current setup.
Hard line from FP is 3/8, I'm replacing with a new hard line from FP straight to carb inlet and putting a new FF under the cab where the "Travel Tanks" valve is (effectively bypassing the valve) . So fuel tank pick up to FF, FF to hard line to FP, new hard line from FP straight up to carb inlet after I take off the hose barb. No more clandestine meetings with flames or extinguishers. 👍
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Old 08-15-2024, 01:53 PM   #52
Dashman
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Re: Another carb help...

It sounds like you're moving along well. Good for you!

Kelsey Hayes trailer brake controller. I think it's nostalgic and it always worked well for us, but I disconnected it as I have two other trucks that I can haul with. Ours had a spring type manually variable resistor in the engine bay. Modern controllers just use the brake light circuit to add voltage with the application of the brake pedal. If you're going to be hauling some, just go with a modern controller.

The distributor gear partially engages before the oil pump rod. You have to engage the oil pump rod with a long screw driver and turn it, so that the engagement happens at the same time. As it slips into the gear and rod, the rotor should rotate clockwise and point to #1. Assuming you are at TDC on the compression stroke on the #1 cylinder.

Good luck!
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Old 11-26-2024, 11:03 PM   #53
Kalums
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Re: Another carb help...

So to follow up... Doing all the things mentioned in here made my truck run better but didn't stop the rough idle... Long story short I finally figured my problem out... *cue big reveal* My brake system was royally messed up and my master cylinder & vacuum booster were toast causing fluid to leak into my booster which was then "vacuumed" into my intake. Which in turn was 1)a vacuum leak and 2) causing my engine to burn brake fluid... Needless to say inside my intake is disgusting and I've got 2 cylinders/spark plugs that are just blech. Just wanted to let anyone know who followed this thread. Thanks again everyone.
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Old 11-27-2024, 12:06 PM   #54
MikeB
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Re: Another carb help...

Brake fluid in the booster? Wow, that's a new one. Glad you found the culprit.
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1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes.
1982 C10 SWB -- sold
1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it!
1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming.
Retired as a factory automation products salesman.
Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop.
Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!
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Old 11-27-2024, 03:48 PM   #55
72SB
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Re: Another carb help...

Yeah brake fluid getting sucked into engine will make it run like crap. Good you found out the "why"...and got the brakes in order also
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Old 11-27-2024, 04:06 PM   #56
Kalums
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Re: Another carb help...

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Originally Posted by 72SB View Post
Yeah brake fluid getting sucked into engine will make it run like crap. Good you found out the "why"...and got the brakes in order also
Having no rear brakes at all MAKES you fix it... But yeah when you dig enough you find stuff you didn't even think of.
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Old 11-27-2024, 09:34 PM   #57
RichardJ
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Re: Another carb help...

Kalums,
>>I pulled the cap my rotor was point almost directly at the carb, NOT towards cylinder #1. <<
The rotor should point to the distributor cap tower that the #1 plug wire plugs into. It has nothing to do with the location of any cylinder, just the location of the plug wire in the cap.

Dashman,
>>Timed port vacuum is NOT a failed emission thing. That's a myth, fallacy, propaganda... <<

True. and in fact the exact opposite is true. Carburetors were not modified to include 1/8' vacuum ports for any purpose associated with ignition timing until the late '60s when emission systems were developed.

The first carb pictured is a early '60s Carter AFB. It has the small 4" air cleaner flange. There is no manifold vacuum port. There isn't even a casting bulge for one. Notice the ported vacuum fitting. Early '60s and before used steel line with threaded fittings for distributor vacuum.

The second, I believe to be a '69 Carter. The rubber vent valve is on the outside, connected to the pump arm. The vent valve was moved inside the bulge on the top, passenger side for the '70 carb. A 3/8" vent tube exited that bulge at a downward angle and was connected to a charcoal cannister. It has a 5" air cleaner horn and most noticeable is, NO manifold vacuum port or even a casting bulge for it.
I have two '69 AVS carbs. I also have a '70 and a '71 AVS that do have the EVAP port, but not one of the four have a casting provision for a manifold vacuum port for the ignition.

The third picture was said to be '67 Quadrajet. Ported vacuum, driver side of the main casting, but something is missing. Oh ya. no fricken manifold vacuum port for the distributor. I've seen many pictures of early (65-67) Quadrajets with no manifold vacuum port for a distributor, but in '67 Rochester carbs started growing crazy numbers of ports for every kind of emission systems GM could think of.
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Old 11-28-2024, 01:02 PM   #58
MikeB
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Re: Another carb help...

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Originally Posted by RichardJ View Post
I have two '69 AVS carbs. I also have a '70 and a '71 AVS that do have the EVAP port, but not one of the four have a casting provision for a manifold vacuum port for the ignition.
Well that's certainly interesting, especially based on extensive write-ups by a GM engineer and others discussing ported vacuum and why it was only needed to meet emission standards at idle.

However, both Edelbrock and Holley manuals say to use ported vacuum for ignition advance, but we've pretty much ignored them.

Last time I tried to use ported vacuum for ignition advance, I had to increase initial advance way above spec to get rid of a momentary off-idle stumble. At some point, like 20-25 degrees BTDC, that might have led to harder starting.
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1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes.
1982 C10 SWB -- sold
1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it!
1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming.
Retired as a factory automation products salesman.
Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop.
Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!
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