1947 Panel Truck Frame swap with ’88 k2500

[Second Series]

With the warmer weather I’m getting back at this. I’m using the original steering wheel on an ‘80’s column. When I tighten the nut, the steering wheel gets tight and hard to turn. I trimmed it to fit. The pass-through spring contact is at the 12 o’clock position on the ’47 steering wheel, so I installed the cancel cam in that position. The ‘80’s steering wheel has the spring contact at the 10:30 position. So now the left turn cancel cam is shifted. My plan is to build up a new cam in the correct location so it will work here. I’m getting continuity when I press the horn button. I have the ‘47 light switch connected and working. The brake and clutch switch mounts have the switch operating opposite of the ‘80’s such that when the pedal is at rest, the switch is depressed, and when the pedal is stepped on, the switch is released. I found some four pin switches that work where 2 pins are normally open and two are normally closed. The brake switch uses the normally closed contacts for the lights, and the normally open contacts for the 4x4 circuit(or could be used for the automatic transmission application). The clutch switch uses the normally closed contacts for the start circuit. Turn signals work. I’ve removed the cluster connector, and am in the process of extending the wires for gauges and dummy lights. I did wire up the volts light and resistor temporarily. I dismantled the donor gauges. The plan is to use the dummy lenses mounted in a box below the dash. I test fit the A/C unit, and then decided to fit the heater controls and dummy lights between the dash and A/C, test fit picture attached. I’m not thrilled with the A/C brackets. I’ll make one hanger.

[Second Series]

I’ve got the lights working as they should. There was a 50/50 chance I wired up the rear lights correctly, I lost that bet. I had to remove the rear interior panels to swap the wires. Now the brake and signal lights are brighter than the running lights. While I had the interior panels out, I replaced one that was under cut. The spray adhesive that I used had failed so I re-did all the panels. I think I needed a longer setup time before applying the two surfaces, this time I waited two minutes after spraying the adhesive. I just re-used the panels and tolex, it was difficult to line up the two pieces, but it came out o.k. The first time around I had glued the cut panels to uncut tolex and then trimmed after for a perfect fit.
The light switch is wired to keyed power so the battery won’t drain if I forget to turn off the lights. I modified the profile of the steering wheel so it transitions to the ‘80’s column, and painted it and the horns with some single stage black paint. Steering wheel is mounted, and the horns are too. I have the original horn relay in place but just as a mounting lug for the two horn wires and the wire from the donor relay. Horn works with the button on the steering wheel. All the lights work as they should. The final light is the single rear light above the license plate. I mixed up 4oz of the Windsor Blue and painted the rear light housing. I’ve also removed the car tent and the panel truck is out in the open from now on.

[Second Series]

I drove the truck! A short trip to the auto parts store. The first attempt I pulled onto the street and the steering wheel didn’t feel right, so I backed uphill and turned back into my drive. The steering wheel seemed to be re-clocked 45 degrees off. I checked all the connections on the steering column/shaft and underneath after the steering gear. Everything looked good. I re-clocked the steering wheel, still eyeballing the front tires pointing forward. On the drive to and from the store the steering seemed loose, but not uncontrollable. The tires are LT215\85R16 at 38psi, and the steering wheel is big for the setup. The other issue was the gear shifter didn’t feel right. It’s not grinding, but it feels shallow when shifting into a gear, that’s the only way I know how to describe it. I have adjusted the clutch pedal linkage so I’ll feel how it is next drive. This has the 5LM60 transmission, so it’s not going to feel like a rock crusher while shifting.
Some of the things I have been doing since my last post. I installed the inside sun visors.
I found a plate on the donor truck under the dash that has some resistors for the heater motor speed switch. This was mounted to the duct. I got an electrical box and mounted it so I can use the original heater motor, now with 3 speeds.
I finally got the speedometer motor driver working good enough. I had previously made a video of the first version, this one has smooth operation. I need to troubleshoot a signal that is causing the speedometer needle to move, some kind of line filter needed.
The trip to the auto parts store was to get a longer serpentine belt for when I add A/C. This truck has a 4-Rib belt. With the smog pump and power steering I’m using the longest 4-rib belt readily available. The trucks with A/C appear to use the 6-Rib serpentine belts. I did find a 101-9/16” 4-Rib belt on-line that would work, but I’m thinking it would slip. It looks easy enough to replace all the 4-Rib pulleys on the front of the engine with 6-Rib. Does the project ever get done?

[Second Series]

The transmission is shifting fine now, I went on a second test drive around the neighborhood and got a thumbs up. I put a piece of tape on the steering wheel where I thought it should be centered. Re-installed the steering wheel and now it seems centered. The third test drive was to the tire store, my son rode with and said he was hating me. He’s never ridden in it and I’ve been working on it for four years, it wasn’t too bad. The salesman wanted to sell me some 235/75R16 tires, but had to order them. I made an appointment for next Monday. The old tires were LT215/85R16 and measure 30.4”x8.5” rated for D-Load. A firm tire that sits under the front fender. The modern equivalent comes in E-Load range = stiff ride and I wanted all terrain. The only tire in that size ad D-Load was one called commercial traction. Next width up tire I found with the softer load rating is the P225/75R16 standard load measuring at 29.3”x8.9”. The Tire salesman said inches look like feet and I should go with the 235/75R16 at 29.88”x9.25”. I accepted his suggestion, but later noticed the estimate was for 225/75R16 and not the all terrain tread I wanted. Later that week I went to get a new spare tire to see how it fit. The shop that sells used tires gave me an estimate for 4 new tires. The spare tire fit well so I got the new tires the next day. They are Patagonia Milestar. From what I read about them on-line they are made with a hybrid compound, softer rubber along with tread pattern, a softer and quieter ride. Rated at 50,000 miles although everything I read suggests they might last 40,000 as the softer rubber wears faster. My steering is noticeably firmer with the new tires. The 215/85R16 tires were just under the front fenders, the 225/75R16 tires .4” wider are about ¼” out of the front fenders. I’m glad I didn’t go with the 235/75R16 .75” wider as they would be out more and the tire salesman was right that inches do look like feet. I enjoyed the short trip back from the tire store and looking forward to more driving. Still a few more things to do before daily driver.

[Second Series]

I drove to the gas station and tried to fill up, got bored after 13 gallons and $70.00, so I drove home. Time to make the ride quieter with some floor mat, but first I need to mount the transfer case shifter bezel. The 4x4 shifter goes low to the floor in 4Low, so I wanted to modify that. I lifted the floor panel and found the transmission shift tower bolts loose again. There were several versions of this transmission, I think this early version used a thin gasket. The original gasket that was in it may not have been original, I don’t know. I had purchased a replacement gasket for the 5LM60 and NV3500 that was available. From what I have found on-line, the later transmission towers had spacers machined on the bottom of the shift tower, the earlier shift towers are flat. I made some spacers to go through the gasket and give the bolts something to snug up against. I modified the T-case shifter and painted it black. The 4x4 lights are not coming on. While I was under the truck looking at the front diff wiring, I noticed the knock sensor was mangled. I replaced the knock sensor the next day.

[vintovka]

Have same set up in mine (54 ad on 84 k1500) I agree your 4x shifter is way too low and may get hung up if you use a factory cover, indicator and boot.

[Second Series]

I moved the truck in 4 wheel drive on gravel and heard the front wheels working, yet the indicator lights were not illuminated. I studied the schematic more and searched on-line for discussions about this system. The one light is supposed to be on all the time with the key power on to indicate the system is getting power, that is the backlight for the 4x4 console. The second light comes on when the 4x4 engages. I replaced the bulbs and now they are working. Awhile ago I had purchased a timing light. When I replaced the distributor I set in in near where the old one was and the engine ran fine. I had never used a timing light, I think I adjusted timing by ear on a points system I had once. The timing light was easy to use. I saw the timing was advanced quite a bit. I turned the distributor until the mark was at the first notch. The idle came way down, so the timing was the reason the idle was high.
Moving on to the floor. I had moved the battery to the engine bay, and now there is frame and exhaust below the hatch. There is still some room there and I thought about adding storage. I kept a lookout for a metal box and recently purchased a Makita tool case from an estate sale. I have yet to modify and attach the box. The transmission floor cover was hacked up pretty well at the restoration shop. I added some sheet metal to reduce the size of the cut-outs. I used Oxy-Acetylene. I got it dialed in by the time I was almost done. The panel warped some, but I think the tension will add to it’s strength. Ospho and paint for the floor panels. I fit the rubber floor mat first and then took it out. Thermal and sound barrier applied to the sheet metal, on top of that I placed a fiber mat. Finally the rubber mat on top, I didn’t get a picture of that and I still need to trim the fiber mat around the edges.

[Second Series]

I Drove to a BBQ place about 20 miles each way, the truck was fine, but the steering was stiff.
I drove to work 20 miles away and the steering was o.k. I was having issues with the speedometer.
The next time I drove to work I had the speedometer disabled, and the steering was stiff again.
I got this aftermarket Steering Column from someone who was giving up on a Jeep project. It was new, he said it was like an ‘80’s GM column. At $100 the price was right. I’ll try to describe what happens. As you drive down the road you are constantly adjusting the steering wheel so the vehicle goes straight. Small movements of the wheel, constantly, you don’t even realize it after awhile. This wheel is stiff and makes a creaking noise, each small adjustment takes real effort.
This is a tilt, floor shift, dash key steering column. Pretty basic. I decided to tear into it. Read a bunch on-line and decided it would be good to have a look inside. From what I saw on-line, this looks more like the ’67 to ’72 style.
It has the GM style ball u-joint in the tilt mechanism, that has the fail-safe yoke. The bottom has a bushing where the shaft exits, not a bearing. After removing the shaft it was plain to see the grease was applied in the wrong spot. I moved the grease down the shaft and also onto the bushing. Reassembled and it is smooth now.
The speedometer is working with the addition of a capacitor on the input signal. The drive to work was missing something, tunes. I have made a bracket for the radio, heater controls and A/C unit. A trip to the hardware store and I noticed how the Brake lever rests while disengaged, right where the A/C will reside. Working out all the little bugs while enjoying the ride.

[Second Series]

I wanted to add some dummy lights, incandescent. I couldn’t find anything available, so I got some led units. Turn indicators, CEL, Brake, Battery. I added the resistor across the battery indicator for the alternator to work. It’s nice to see when the turn signals are on although they flash fast. I looked into it briefly but didn’t find a solution.
I have been working on the Gauge Cluster. The original gauge cluster doesn’t have much to offer except the look. The oil and temp are mechanical, the donor is electrical. The gas gauge is the wrong scale for the donor sending unit. The Battery gauge is the only one that could work as it is a current meter. Since I’m swapping out the other gauges, I’ll do them all. The donor gauges are big. I tore down both clusters to see what I have to work with. I started to fit the donor gauges to the original housing. I made a template from a to-go lid to identify where the gauge needle pins are located. Things went sideways here and I had to back up. I cut some holes in the original cluster can and soon discovered the donor gauges are too big to get the needle pins in the same place as the originals. I thought about it. The way the original is assembled, I would need a bracket to mount the donor gauges to. I made a bracket and placed the donor gauges as close together as I could.
I’m trying to get everything lined up, but there is too great of a margin of error with the hand tools. The gauges are not perfectly aligned with the holes in the bracket, but close enough. Next is to locate the gauge plates. I had purchased another gauge cluster for parts, I’m using it for this measurement. I cut a ring that matches the outer diameter of the gauge plates and taped the plates to it. Aligned the plates to the needle pins. Marked the holes, drilled them, and installed some M2 bolts. I then mounted the plates to the bracket. Now I could see how the donor gauges will meet the gauge plates. They are too far out to have the same stop as the original. The original gauges needles have a dog leg that meets the contour of the slot in the plates. This acts as the stops and keeps the needles from swinging off the face. I wanted to use the original needles for this purpose, but I’ll make it work as it is. I’ll use the plate bolts as stops and make my own needles. I removed the brass hubs from the donor needles, and placed them on the gauge pins. They are too tall, and the plate bolts are also too tall. I placed the gauge label piece to see the fit. I cut the needle hubs down.
I cut some needles from some hobby stock. I soldered the needles to the hubs, and bent the needles over. The test fit of the needles revealed that the contours need to be trimmed. I suspect I’ll need to add some ballast to the back side of the needles as both the donor and the original mechanisms had such, and I’m running two of these gauges upside down. The bolts I have for the gauge plates are M2 12mm. I need about half that length, but the local fastener shop has only 10mm. I “cut to fit” the bolts that I have. Now the gauge label piece sits down as it should.
I made a paper template to place the holes for the ½” standoffs to mount the gauge bracket to the cluster can. The cluster can has Two backlights. There is a baffle next to each light, it is about ½” tall. With the gauges mounted to the can, I’m one step closer. I made a circuit board out of prototyping board and soldered the gauge sockets to it. After plugging the gauge cluster to the circuit board, I see where it needs to be trimmed to clear the backlights.

[dsraven]

wow, thats some finicky work there. good job.
if it were me I would have introduced a few parts to the other side of the road, airborne style. lol.

[6DoF]

heck yeah, that gauge will be sweet