Super Cheyenne aka the "Devil Cowboy"

[landarts]

I worked on getting the goodies bolted back onto the motor I ordered. While that was going on, I was doing the usual cleaning and scrubbing of the front of the frame where the motor sits so I could get it painted satin black like the rest. I also needed to clean up the transfer case cross-member that Bestview had sent to me for the truck. Removed the 4x4 factory cross-member so I could do some thick grease removal with the needle scaler and a dose of oven cleaner.

Pic 1 - motor almost ready
Pic 2 - 4x4 cross-member caked with hard oil/grease
Pic 3 - mess from soaking down and scrubbing

[landarts]

After a couple of days of scrubbing and chiseling away at the hardened grease on the front of the frame, I finally got some rusty metal primer on it and then chassis black. I used several different products to get the job done in the quest for the simplest and best way to get all the gunk off. Here is the list of products used, Dollar Store oven cleaner, Purple Power, Awesome and simple green. I also first went over frame and motor cross-member after removing with a air needle.

One discovery I had yesterday was I applied oven cleaner over the three pieces of the motor cross-member and then wrapped with painters plastic to help with the fumes. When I came out into the shop a couple of hours later and unwrapped them, then sprayed them with Awesome and tossed into the garage sink and did a once-over scrubbing with a brush. There was nothing left on the three pieces including any leftover paint. Then I gave it a good rinse with hot water and then sprayed it with rusty metal red primer.

Next up will be getting the front of frame in color and the motor cross-member mounted so I can install the power plant. Get setup to paint the transfer case and the transmission next. Also mounting the cab to the frame with new body rubber kit.

[best view]

Looks awesome

[landarts]

Finally got the engine crossmember and the front of the frame clean and painted. It is always an arduous task to get all of the hardened oil and dirt off so it can get some new paint. I was geared up for setting the cab down on the frame with new Energy Suspension body mount kit that I purchased a few months ago, however when I opened the box it had the wrong kit on the inside. The box on the outside had the right part number, wrong part on inside. Re-ordered from Summit Racing and will be here in two days.

On my next project, I might just send it out for sandblasting. Anyway here are a few pictures of the motor going into the truck. Next, I will get the core support cleaned up and painted Satin black so I can bolt on the front fenders. I also need to get some silver color on the rebuilt transmission and rusty metal primer on the transfer case.

[landarts]

Hit a few stumbling blocks trying to get the cab mounted to the frame. First had the wrong kit shipped, then I got the right kit last night from FedX. Still did not have any of the OEM sleeves that I needed since the PO had installed a body lift kit and all of the OEM hardware was missing. I did some research on the interweb and could not find any of them for sale anywhere. Then I found a thread here talking about making your own sleeves and the sizes of the parts. Had that all in the cart then I remembered I had a full set from the 69 K10 I tore down to rebuild. So I ventured out to the parts shed, and after about 30 minutes of searching through tubs I found a complete set.

I will clean them up and squirt them with rust gel and then some paint so they can hold up for a bit. I also learned that the 3/4 ton and 4x4 frames mounts are different according to GMCPauls.

I also plan on ordering a few materials to make a few sets since I have a few more trucks to build and I know they are not in good shape. I will also order the nuts and bolts since they are not off the shelf items at local hardware store. More to follow on is side project.


I also have been working on getting the core support ready. Took it outside and hosed it off since the temperatures were above-freezing yesterday. Knocked down any surface rust I could with the electric DA and then put two coats of Rust Reformer on areas that were hard to reach. I will hand sand those later today and hopefully get some etching primer on the core support this evening.

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Here is a quote from another thread, hope it can help someone out down the road:
The 3/4 ton and 4X4 body mounting cushions are taller because they place the rear frame to cab mounting brackets lower on frame on those trucks than they do on 1/2 ton 2 wheel drive trucks. The reason for this is the 3/4 ton and 4X4 trucks suspensions are stiffer and expected to be on rougher terrain than 1/2 ton 2 wheel drive trucks and the additional rubber height of rear cushions it helps to cushion / absorb the rougher ride better than a shorter rubber mounting cushion would. If you raised the rear frame bracket mounts the body cushions sit on for 3/4 ton and 4X4 trucks to the same height they are mounted on the frame as the 1/2ton 2 wheel drive then you could use the shorter read cushions but you would compromise ride quality.
Paul Jr @ GMCPauls

[Louisvillekytruck]

Looking good

[landarts]

Originally Posted by Louisvillekytruck

Looking good

Thanks for the shout out. Starting to finally come together!

Well, I finally got the cab onto the frame after salvaging through some parts bins that I have "Hoarder". Used the front 9/16 bolts from old set up for front and sleeves for rear application. Still need to order some 9/16 nuts from Mcmaster Carr or Amazon if they have them for the front cab bolts.

I went out into the shop this morning to put together Bestview's Christmas present: the cab light installation. I had already pulled and rebuilt a brand new heavy-duty harness to match the existing one since the mice had made a meal of it at some point. Spent about 20 minutes pulling the harness through with string I had left in the upper cavity of the roof when I pulled the old one out. Then gathered everything I needed like tools, connectors and the box with the new light system. Took about an hour altogether to install everything and shrink down all connections with a heat gun. Super happy with how it looks and we still have the original lenses that were on the truck, lots of cracks in them so I was afraid to try and re-use them and have them crumble.

Merry Christmas Kenny!

[best view]

Best present ever

[landarts]

Out in the garage early this morning to weld up the bottom of the core support and the core support brackets on the frame also have a small crack in them. After that I did a once over the back side of the core support after welding with DA and get it prepped for some rusty metal primer. Color this afternoon on core support so I can mount tomorrow.

I also got the core support brace, hood lever, transfer case cross-member, and hinge bolts into the blaster and painted with some primer so I can also get color on them with the core support.

[landarts]

Made the repairs to the bottom of the core support with a little welding and grinding. Got it primed and painted with two coats of satin black. Going on in the morning with the new core support rubber kit.

Also made repairs to the two core support frame brackets that had splits in the top outer edge where there is not much material to support the up and down weight of front sheet metal. I cut into the metal over the crack and opened it up the width of a cutter blade. then welded it shut for a strong bond. Ground it down and got some of the rusty metal primer on it. A little satin black over that in the morning and the core support and fenders can be mounted.

[Getter-Done]

Great Repair.

I am more of a Grinder than a welder.

So I can relate to this Repair.

You are making Great Progress.

[landarts]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Great Repair.

I am more of a Grinder than a welder.

So I can relate to this Repair.

You are making Great Progress.

Thanks Getter-Done, and I hear you on the more grinder than a welder. What is more important is that you are Getting-er-done!
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I got out into the shop early to spray some chassis black on the front of the frame where the core support goes. Then, I moved over to the core support to tape and paper off some of the sections on the back so I could spray some 3M rubberized coating on the bottom half that was a little pitted and rough from rust. It puts a really nice texture onto the surface and also protects from further rust development. The product is pretty reasonable and I have used it for years with success.

Next up, get the core support mounted and spraying the backside of fenders with 3M undercoating and mounting.

[landarts]

Ended the day getting the core support mounted with new hardware and rubber set. Also got both fender's backsides done with the 3M undercoating just like the bottom of the core support.

Then it was killing me to put one fender on just to see how it looked. I know that the fender will need to come back off to mount the doors tomorrow. I only have two bolts holding on, one at the cab and one on the core support bracket. For me, it was worth the little effort to bolt it on. Sometimes the little things make all the difference in keeping the project rolling.

On vacation for the next two weeks so lots of building getting done on the project.

[Chevyland]

Nice work..
Have a great vacation

[landarts]

This morning I wanted to get the doors on and the fenders mounted up. Removed the fender from yesterday, and gotthe passenger door up on a body stand to mount the hinges and install new window regulators I purchased a few weeks ago. Moved a few items around in the shop, then rigged up the engine hoist with a strap and a microfibre towel around the door frame to protect the good.

I got the door on the first try, with reasonable clearance and gaps for a driver. Then, I bolted the front passenger fender on and stepped back to enjoy the view again. As I was moving items around in the garage again so I could push the front of the truck over so that I had room for the engine hoist and door to go onto the driver's side, I thought to myself that went too easy and I am really killing it today. Well it did not go as smooth on drivers side. Had the fender on and off a few times to get the hinges in the right location and to get decent gaps. I will need to bend out the upper top corner of door frame outward a 1/4 inch or so to get that alignment better.

One thing I did different this time was to install all door hinge bolts and fender bolt with primer on the bolt only. I will paint them with color on the truck after all final adjustments are made. The last few times I painted them first I could stop them from getting so chipped up from adjustments. Tried taping them and that was a nightmare to get the tape off. So I will give this way a try.

[Greg58]

Enjoying following your progress.
Merry Christmas, Greg

[landarts]

Over the last few days I have been getting some additional parts ready for paint so I can get them on the truck. Been processing a boatload of nuts and bolts needed for assembly. Cleaning the items with a degreaser, then soap and water, then into the blast cabinet, and finally some paint. Cleaning up the starter and a few brackets that need to go on the motor and power steering pump as well. Scrubbed and power washed the Parchment door panels so they could get a few coats of SEM Super White Part # 15103. Also sprayed all the nuts, bolts, core support bracket and hood opener.

Also tore down the tach gauge cluster for a freshen-up before it goes into the woodgrain bezel. Got two coats on the needles to make them pop a little.

[landarts]

Originally Posted by Greg58

Enjoying following your progress.
Merry Christmas, Greg

Hi Greg, glad you are following the thread. Merry Christmas!
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I wanted to try a technique that I have never done on restoring the factory emblems. I started by soaking the emblems in some soapy water overnight to break down many years of dirt and road grime. Brushed them off with a stiff nylon brush to get in between the letters and followed with a red Scotch-Brite to get some of the old primer paint off the chrome.

Then headed over to the local hobby store and purchased some Testors enamel in red, black, and white. Also picked up a few of these little bottles that have a metal tube tip. Thought they might work better than using a syringe like others have tried. Got lucky with the little bottles which made it easy and super simple to do. A few of the pictures show some done and some before adding color for comparison.

[D.B]

Wow, those look fantastic. Nice work!!