Dash Pad Replacement

[BanjoDude]

I got a replacement dash pad for my '69 C-20 and am hoping to find some time in the next few days to install it. When I bought the truck a couple of years back, it had a 25-year-old restoration that still looks factory new. The restoration company apparently opted to recover the dash with vinyl, and I wanted it to look original.

Has anyone here replaced the dash pad? Is there a good way to get in to remove the nuts from the bottom without taking the whole dash apart, or is this going to be an adventure? Any tips? Thanks for any help you can offer!

[Orange71shorty]

You need to remove the instrument cluster, glove box liner and radio at a minimum..

[HO455]

You can replace it without removing components but only if you have small nimble hands. That is my experience with a Non-AC truck. Having AC may make it tougher to do.

Last time I messed with mine I removed the screws that hold the glove box liner in place so I could move it around. I did the same with the dash bezel. I didn't remove either just made some space.

Just a heads up some folks have had problems with the studs not lining up with the holes.

Don't over tighten the nuts it can cause waves in the top of the pad.

[Steeveedee]

After buying a seat cover and foam, and a new headliner, I was looking at the dash pad. My wife doesn't care, and I guess that's a good thing, based on the fun I see people having replacing them. At 72 YO, I don't have nimble fingers, and my hands are not small. I know people with thumbs smaller than my pinkies.

[BanjoDude]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

After buying a seat cover and foam, and a new headliner, I was looking at the dash pad. My wife doesn't care, and I guess that's a good thing, based on the fun I see people having replacing them. At 72 YO, I don't have nimble fingers, and my hands are not small. I know people with thumbs smaller than my pinkies.

Did you do the seat cover yourself? If so,was it manageable?

[dmjlambert]

Here is my adventure in the link below. Re-covering the dash pad gives the highest quality results because of the high quality and large amount of metal in the original. But it is necessary to remove it before re-covering it in order to do it right. Compare the "new" dash pad with the original once you get it removed and you'll see what I mean. When you put it back in the truck it really isn't necessary to install the bottom screws that go through the vinyl, they don't do anything. And it would only be necessary to attach a couple of the nuts. https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=793182

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by BanjoDude

Did you do the seat cover yourself? If so, was it manageable?

It took three of us (me-220 Lbs, son- 270 Lbs, youngest brother running the hog ring pliers- 135 Lbs) to compress the foam enough to get the hog rings on. Came out great, though! I think that there must be some kind of giant clamp at the factory to compress the seat cushions for upholstery installation. It's a real bear. My dad used to upholster vehicles, and I don't remember ever having seen him use that much force; he weighed about 160 and did it alone. The components were from National Parts Depot, though I doubt that that makes a difference.

[Rick Bollinger]

You can get to most of the bolts through the dash defrost vents. If your window is still in I don't know if you could get your hand around enough to get in there. Mine was just re covered by Ricks plus my dash is apart so it was a non issue.

[72c20customcamper]

I took everything off the dash . Needed to refurbish the cluster and need a new glove box lined anyways. Wasn’t all that hard seat wasn’t hard at all PUI foam and USA1 cover

[BanjoDude]

Thanks for all the advice, guys. This shouldn't be too terrible, as I have a radio blanking plate and aftermarket AC that's installed below the dash. Looks like I can pull the glove box liner, radio blanking plate and instrument cluster and get to everything I need. Appreciate the help!

Wes

[LockDoc]

-
Here is a pretty good thread on the dash pad subject:

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=793182
.

[Michael D]

As a matter of fact I just did mine today

Not to hijack your thread but yes, take it all apart and you’ll be happier in the long run. Plus the experience for the next time, lol.

I replaced my non ac dash with a factory ac dash I bought from Ironhorse about a year ago and I finally picked it up at the end of summer.
I had the donor dash powder coated and then I tack welded it in place today. That’s an another story trying to mug weld .040 steel.
Once that was done I sprayed the weld with factory color paint and after the paint dried I reinstalled the dash pad.
I had everything out of the dash. The gauge cluster, the glovebox, the radio, everything because I cut the dash under the dash pad. And now it’s all starting to go back together.

[BanjoDude]

Thanks to all of you for your suggestions. I dug into this project this afternoon, and completed it in just under two hours. Fortunately, the dash installation for the restoration shop must have been a Friday afternoon job, and only the four nuts which are easily accessible had been installed. I pulled the glove box insert and the radio blanking plate and was able to get to all of them. From there, I could install the new pad (I had no fitment issues whatsoever - it was a perfect replica of the old one) and get 5 of the 7 nuts installed. With a combination of long wobble extensions, I was able to get to the other two, so now the dash is secured properly....almost. Does anyone know the proper size for the 4 screws on the front side? I know they're not absolutely necessary, but I'd like to put them back, as they were not installed with the old dash either.

It looks so much better. It's hard to see in the before pics, but the vinyl cover had come loose of the glue and was really rippling. This looks 100% better and matches the overall condition of the truck.

Thanks again, guys. Any clues on the proper size, length and type of screw for the front would be very helpful. Happy new year!

Wes

[BanjoDude]

This looks fantastic, man! I really appreciate guys that take the time to do a project all the way like this. Thanks for sharing.

Originally Posted by Michael D

As a matter of fact I just did mine today

Not to hijack your thread but yes, take it all apart and you’ll be happier in the long run. Plus the experience for the next time, lol.

I replaced my non ac dash with a factory ac dash I bought from Ironhorse about a year ago and I finally picked it up at the end of summer.
I had the donor dash powder coated and then I tack welded it in place today. That’s an another story trying to mug weld .040 steel.
Once that was done I sprayed the weld with factory color paint and after the paint dried I reinstalled the dash pad.
I had everything out of the dash. The gauge cluster, the glovebox, the radio, everything because I cut the dash under the dash pad. And now it’s all starting to go back together.

[dmjlambert]

#8 panhead Phillips sheet metal screw 1/2 inch. I recommend omit all of them and 1/2 of the nuts but too late for that! https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=786474

[BanjoDude]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

#8 panhead Phillips sheet metal screw 1/2 inch. I recommend omit all of them and 1/2 of the nuts but too late for that! https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=786474

Thank you!