Bucketlist Blazer -Restomod build 6.6liter L8T

[NDM]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

that primer left an awesome finish on the cast even with the brush. i bet the gallon can is WAY cheaper than the same qty in rattle cans!

are you sanding the primer off the 205 housing mating surfaces? i've always kept them bare, but never had anyone argue one way or the other. down in the bores however, i'd be worried things won't slip-fit with that heavy coat.

I only bought the pint(correction. It was a quart) can of the primer and barely used any of it with the brush. I agree that it left an okay finish. I did mark the mating surfaces today and quickly sanded to bare metal. Unfortunately I forgot the idler shoms and had to pull it apart today. Then, I did not check the alignment before I ramrodded the idler in there causing the shims to be destroyed. I paid a crapload of cash to have a shim kit next day shipped. I will get them tomorrow.

[6DoF]

that is the worst feeling!

[NDM]

Well, I am done rebuilding the NP205 and I can honestly say that I would rather have someone kick me in the nuts than to have to rebuild another one of these. I have sealant all over the place and it took a bazillion years for me to get the stupid shift pin thingies lined up correctly. My beautiful painting has become scuffed and I will probably just spray it a single color once I have it in the vehicle.

The worst part is that I rebuilt it in my basement because the garage is cold and does not have a suitable table. I have to carry this big F-ing thing up the stairs and into the garage. Not looking forward to that! At least I was finally able to use the speedo fitting thingy that I bought two years ago. I am definitely looking forward to not seeing that leak anymore. Oh!!!!! And apparently the ols freeze plugs do not fit the new case. I gotta get that figured out.

[6DoF]

carrying a 205 up stairs ... you and the 2 other ppl better wear steel toe boots!

good thing about the 205 is it'll never need rebuild again. i shaved my shift rails so i could run a true twin-stick in my '93 Ram tow rig. ground too much and had to weld it back, got pretty good at getting those rails in and out.

[NDM]

Good news is, My motor is in and has clearance all around. I have space to move the motor up to two and a half inches forward if I want or need to. In the snow and at temps around 20 degrees F I managed to"embrace the suck" and dealt with the cold to get this thing in here. I will be going with 1.5 to 2 degree down tilt on the motor to clear my oil dipstick on the back of the motor. it is in a weird location but works. It is the one that came with the motor. The motor sits about a quarter inch more toward the passenger side. That is less than my LS swap Regal had so I am good with it. I still have to take the mounts back out and paint them. Other than that, the motor is mounted.



Now the bad news-

The factory dual alternator setup will not work out. There is not enough space between the drivers side frame rail and the second alternator. I can deal with that though.



I am going to warm up a bit and then head out to my icebox of a garage to test fit the down pipes and start planning the pipe path. I can't really make it official until the trans and transfer case are installed. I I am dreading carrying the 140 pound transfer case out of the basement. I was supposed to do it today but I just could not. I will soon but for now I am not touching that thing.



I will upload pics in a minute. Right after a hot coffee or cup of tea. I am very pleased today!!!

[bambbrose]

Looks awesome in place. Great work

[NDM]

This forum is much harder to post pictures. I have been working diligently, posting on my car audio forum with easy pic uploads and want to get this forum up to speed on my progress so there will be a bunch of info coming. Here I go.

In a stunning reversal of my post about the dual alternators, I am pleased to announce that I am 95% sure that bu trimming the fender liner, the second alternator should fit after all!




Damn..... now I have decisions to make. I did say that I was 95% sure. That 5% is a real pain. Notch the frame slightly or forget having dual alternators? To make matters worse, the factory VIN stamp is right where the notch would be. I could cut right up to the vin stamp to avoid it. Is it really worth it though? I could modify the alternator and just solder directly to the pins (delete the connector). That would not be too bad.





I am going to cut into the connector on the alternator and solder directly to the pins. Technically I only need one of the two pins but since it is a pwm alternator I will just do both pins. That should give me over a half inch or so for engine movement.



audionow said:
What about taking the alternator apart and turning the rear half 90 degrees?
Omg! I never even thought of that! I will investigate that in the morning! Thank you!

My ADHD was never going to let me wait until tomorrow to try this. It took an hour to figure out how to do it but my 2nd alternator is successfully installed because of your suggestion. I have about 3/4 inch clearance to the frame too! Thank you so much for that suggestion. I never would have seen the solution without your comment.

[NDM]

Motor is in. I decided to move it rearward about 1.25 inches. This allows me to clear the front driveshaft betterand I will be less likely to hit the hood with this tall a$$ hi ram intake. Trans is sitting on the spacer that I fabricated allowing me to use the factory trans crossmember. I am pleased with the 4.1 degree angle that I have as result (pic shows 94.1 degrees on the transfer case flat). I had to cut and weld my transfercase shifter to clear the hole after moving everything. I will need to move my amps to get it to shift into 4wd lo. I may just move them forward about a half inch.

I still need to add spacers and drill new holes for the transfercase support bracket.

I am definitely ready to get this project moving. The great weather that I have enjoyed will not be around forever. The garage has been very comfortable as I lay for hours on the cold floor. I am making steady progress though.







I finally made my decision on the Holley wiring entry location. I drilled a big ole 3.25 inch hole and placed two thirds of my aluminum grommet to allow the gasket maker to cure. The ecu will go either under the console or under the drivers seat. Both locations will protect from the elements when the top is off.

Oh, and a random picture of the sexy beast getting ready for exhaust fabrication!









Wiring has been run and I am now fitting the exhaust. The path over the transfer case was worrying me alot but ended up fitting perfect with a single square cut and one of the S bends that came in the kit with no modifications. The driver side did not fit without removing the trans shifter bracketry. I may modify it to match the passenger side and put the mufflers in the exact same spot and position on both sides. For now I am done for the night. Tired from New Year with family.





And now this forum is up to speed.