Looking for advice from experience painters

[rbruno68]

As we move into colder winter temperatures and working in an unheated garage, I am looking for some advice from experienced painters. I would like to continue working on my build, and I need to continue to paint parts. At this point, it is mostly hardware and odds and ends stuff. No body work or painting large panels. I understand Technical Data Sheets gives optimal painting temperatures. But, I am not really clear on specifics. I am mainly using Eastwood Chassis Black and Primer in a rattle can. I have a turbo heater that takes the chill off while working, but it isn't going to get the garage up to 70 degrees. What effects on the paint will painting in a cold garage have on the end product? Longer drying times? Not as good adhesion? Long term durability? All of the above? If it is drying time, I am not to worried about that; it will just slow the progress down. But the adhesion or durability would be a concern. Any advice would be appreciated.
Rob

[Bodied67]

I’m a PPG master tech, the only advice I’d really give you is just mind your drying times. Too much paint too soon will cause issues down the line 100%. Take your time you’ll be fine, make sure each coat is more than dry before you throw another one on. Heat always helps but you gotta work with what you got.

[Grounded63]

If you're using catalyzed products, you really need to be mindful of lower temps. And what the fully cured window is. The curing process for some products can slow down significantly. Below 60°F. ( epoxies/polyesters love heat ) Some products may continue to cure very slowly. And finish curing once the temps come back up. Some will stop curing completely if they get to cold. And will not finish cross linking, even when temps come back up again.

1k products can be more forgiving of lower than ideal temperatures.

You don't necessarily need to heat your whole garage to an ideal temp. But create a micro climate for the part your working on.

If your painting small parts/brackets. Hang them in front of a smaller heater or heat lamps between coats and your final hard flash. If you're doing bigger parts/panels. Tent them after spraying and run a small space heater to keep them at temp, if needed.

[rbruno68]

Originally Posted by Bodied67

I’m a PPG master tech, the only advice I’d really give you is just mind your drying times. Too much paint too soon will cause issues down the line 100%. Take your time you’ll be fine, make sure each coat is more than dry before you throw another one on. Heat always helps but you gotta work with what you got.

This helps. So, light coats with plenty of drying time in between. I am ok with waiting longer for things to dry. I just don't want to stop all together and have to wait till it gets warmer to continue with some of the things I am working on.
Rob

[rbruno68]

Originally Posted by Grounded63

If you're using catalyzed products, you really need to be mindful of lower temps. And what the fully cured window is. The curing process for some products can slow down significantly. Below 60°F. ( epoxies/polyesters love heat ) Some products may continue to cure very slowly. And finish curing once the temps come back up. Some will stop curing completely if they get to cold. And will not finish cross linking, even when temps come back up again.

1k products can be more forgiving of lower than ideal temperatures.

You don't necessarily need to heat your whole garage to an ideal temp. But create a micro climate for the part your working on.

If your painting small parts/brackets. Hang them in front of a smaller heater or heat lamps between coats and your final hard flash. If you're doing bigger parts/panels. Tent them after spraying and run a small space heater to keep them at temp, if needed.

So, far I have been using just the rattle can that doesn't have the two part epoxy in the can. I am referring to the type of cans that you have to break the bladder inside to mix the paint and the catalyst. I hope I am using the right terms there.

What I have done which I think would be the same thing as you are suggesting is I group my parts together at the door of my garage with the door closed. I run my turbo heater for a while and puts some heat on the individual/group of parts. I then turn the heater off, open the door enough for a fan to pull some of the fumes out, paint, close the door, and turn the heater back on. I am hoping to start on my cab before winter is over and may have to build the tent as you mentioned to spray. But, I am not sure exactly how I want proceed with the cab.

Rob

[Grounded63]

Sounds like you're doing great.

On the cab, when I'm saying tent. I'm really kinda just saying, to get it covered/enclosed. Tarp/moving blankets/plastic sheating. Not necessarily to build some sort of structure. ( not that you shouldn't if thats easier for you ) So you can use a small space heater to heat the smaller envelope of space.

For 2k products if you look at the TDS. They will usually have a spec for air dry & forced dry. For temperature and time .If your only able to heat your work shop up to air dry type temps. Then you need to keep them at that temp for the full duration of the curing time. But, if your able to get the parts up to forced dry temp. Using your turbo heater or heat lamps. The fully cured time is much shorter. And you technically do not need to keep them heated over night.

You just don't want to struggle to get your shop up to 60°F. Spray a 2k product. Then turn the lights and heat off, and walk away for the night.