69 Olive Stepper LS Swap

[blkcorvair]

So over a dozen years ago I restored my 69 Stepside. Every screw and bolt restored and put back where it belonged. I was only the second Owner at the time. I originally kept it with its 250 i6, and 3spd on the tree. I soon after installed a 2004r, Power Steering and Power Brakes. But shortly after that I mistakenly sold it. Fast foward nearly a dozen years and that buyer reached out and in turn sold it back to me. I have been driving it everywhere I can since and loving every minute of it. But its time for another upgrade. I have been in the last weeks sourcing parts for my LS Swap. This will likely take about a year to complete. Ill get working on the new Drivetrain while still enjoying the truck until its all ready to swing over.

So Far Ive gotten
2013 Vortec 5.3 from Tahoe with 53k Miles
2008 4L80e from Chevy Express
2010 Camaro Factory Manifolds and Cats with 10k miles
1972 5 Lug Rear Axles and Front Brakes

I Plan to do a Vintage style Swap with Single Plane Manifold, EFI and a small cam. Im Planning on running the Cats and have my eyes on the Black Heart Header back Exhaust 2.5" currently

Ill be lowering the truck a few inches, Disc Brakes, Larger Wheels, Etc..

Ive gotten alot of idea reading through threads here and over as LS1tech

[blkcorvair]

Here's the Future Power Plant. Although its currently torn down for DOD and VVT delete. Ive been waiting for my cam for 2 weeks that appears lost in the mail so I can start puting this back together.

[MySons68C20]

Nice truck! It'll be fun to watch your progress. I think a year is a realistic timeline.

[Rich84]

Sign me up..nice project you have

[LS short box]

Looks like a great project. So much easier when start with a good truck to begin with.
I've done a number of LS swaps over the years.
Couple things that have worked well for me.
I buy the engine harness and computer from known supplier with great tech support. Not Ebay. Many folks have used the Holley EFI stuff for the vintage look. I think their computer can provide trans control.
I would be really tempted to rewire the chassis harness with new if you have not done that already. If its original its 55years old.
I went with aftermarket tube upper and lower a-arms. They let you dial in more positive caster.
LS swaps love good grounds. Battery to the engine block. Engine block to the frame.
I use generic LS swap radiators. Puts the inlet and outlet on the passenger side for easier radiator routing.
Man I like spending other peoples money. LOL.
Again good luck with project.

[blkcorvair]

Thank you. What’s everyone’s favorite engine mounts for this? Was originally thinking dirty dingo sliders and possibly adjusting to keep current driveshaft. But now I’m leaning towards the hooker tape as I rad the engine sits about an inch lower. Thoughts are to keep the driveline angles better. Plan do do a lot of long highway driving when done so don’t want to create any driveline imbalance

[WorldsCrappiestTruck]

Originally Posted by blkcorvair

Thank you. What’s everyone’s favorite engine mounts for this? Was originally thinking dirty dingo sliders and possibly adjusting to keep current driveshaft. But now I’m leaning towards the hooker tape as I rad the engine sits about an inch lower. Thoughts are to keep the driveline angles better. Plan do do a lot of long highway driving when done so don’t want to create any driveline imbalance

Good info from LS Short Box above. Learn from those who have done it.

Mounts - I think any slider is fairly equivalent - the slide certainly helps with trying to keep the stock driveshaft. As for driveline angle….your rear mount will be where it is. If you raise or lower the engine 4-feet away from that pivot point by an inch….its really not going to effect the driveline angle. Make up for that with pinion angle shims on the rear end.

I used tubular mounts (maybe from CPP, or POL) as shown a couple posts down and they worked fine. I think I had to enlarge a hole or two in the crossmember but I liked how I could easily run power cables, transmission cooler lines, wiring harness etc underneath them and there were no sharp edges

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=695411