My C-30 w/Holmes wrecker adventure

[D.B]

That is one way to fix things. I also like rivet nuts and use them whenever I can. I have not seen the Handee Clamp or the handheld nibbler before. Those are some cool and interesting tools. Thanks for sharing photos of your work. We all like photos.

[jhe.1973]

Thanks Darrell for viewing and taking the time to respond! I've been impressed with several of your posts and the perspective you provide.

[jhe.1973]

Originally Posted by 54blackhornet

Jim your work ethic is commendable ! I can tell that you don’t do anything half you know what ! What’s your plan for the generator ? I have lived off grid for the last 32 years in Eastern Oregon. Your unit looks like it would power a small city. Thanks for sharing your skills, you should consider offering your services to the local trade school. Not many left that could teach the younger generation a thing or two…Jack

Hello Jack,

Thanks viewing this thread and for the nice words!

The generator is for a hoped for move to a more rural area where I will use it for a backup for a solar system that I also acquired.

Congratulations for living off grid for as long as you have. Before moving to Arizona we lived in the Appalachian mountains for 9 years and were going the self-sufficient route as much as possible.

Once out here in AZ I taught at a motorcycle school for a few rotations (mini semesters) and enjoyed the teaching aspect a lot. Unfortunately the detractors were right in that it was a diploma mill and not too concerned with education.

The genset I posted a picture of in #37 definitely could power a small city/town. Mine would easily power my entire shop cuz I'm a sole-proprietor. If I don't use my TIG welder on high it would probably work for that too. Just don't open the refrigerator and have the light come on!

[jhe.1973]

OOOOPS!

I forgot to include this photo when the wiring and switch was finished. It was just starting to get dark too:

[jhe.1973]

Hi Everyone,

I'm going to go back to continuing my explanation of how/why I spliced the frames halves as I did.

As some of you have surely seen, there is a lot of online advice on the "proper" way to splice frame members or even the entire frame.

One of the ways I've seen that I think looks really great when done well is like this example that I clipped out of a YouTube video:



I thought long and hard about doing it this way and I decided against it.

My primary objection has to do with why I-beams and channels are designed the way they are.

When a top load is placed on a horizontal member, or beam, (in this case frame rail) the beam is under compression on the top and tension on the bottom. Essentially there is no movement along the center line.

Manufacturing I-beams and channels with top and bottom flanges is what gives the most strength with the least amount of material.

The example shown will undoubtedly be strong enough for the job but I also wanted to avoid a possible problem in the long run.

The original frame had already gone through several 'repairs' due to frame flex and I was concerned about adding too much stiffness in too small an area. I didn't want the frame to start cracking near each end of the diamond shaped patch.

When I looked for the best place for my splice, I found a nice straight section along the side and under the cab. I was able to use the two pairs for holes that show up on each side of the splice as references for an accurately measured vertical scribe line on each frame:



I used an oxy/acetylene cutting torch to separate both frames, staying about 1/4 inch away from the appropriate side of the scribe line. Then using an angle grinder I ground just about to the line finishing with a large file.



When I enlarged and brightened up the above photo I noticed that I had welded a 1/4 thick patch over the prior repairs (white outline) just to get by until I could get around to doing the frame splice. I had completely forgotten about this patch until today!

I had a couple of thick wall, wide flange steel channels that had been blanchard ground on the web side. These were clamped along the outside of both frame rails. I had picked these up at a scrapyard when we lived in West Virginia and have used them for all sorts of things through the years.

Did I mention that I'm a packrat? ........ Ooops! I digress.................

Using one come-a-long on each side I pulled the assembly together and vee ground the inside of the weld area first. When the inside welds were done, and the clamps removed I vee ground the outside seam to pick up the inside welds and remove any scale weld scale. This way I am sure that I have 100% penetration and maximum strength.

The top and bottom caps that I welded onto the flanges are just to take some of the shear loading off of the weld underneath.

One more point I would like to mention is that to use the steel channels that I described I had to remove the front cab mounts. Instead of re-riveting them, I used grade 8 bolts and made sure the the unthreaded part of the shank extends through the mount and into the frame. That's why there is so much thread sticking out from the bolts on the inside of the frame. This extra length has come in handy as I'll show in a later post when I had to relocate the parking brake cable anchor.

Thank y'all for all of the views and I hope to get back soon as we're once again helping with our granddaughter. Sooooo, I get to have more free time slots than when I'm at home.

[jhe.1973]

I forgot to mention that I came across a YouTube video a few months back where an engineer thoroughly debunks the idea that the 'correct' way to splice a vehicle chassis is with diagonal or stepped cuts. He uses plenty of math but also does a great job of explaining it all w/o the math:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtwDvFTfBn8

[CG]

Im only on a couple of forums and Ive seen that video posted several times. Every time it gets a lot of dislikes because they feel that is the incorrect way to do the frame no matter what the engineering says. Of course there are also a lot of folks that agree with the vid.