71 GMC engine swap-arino

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by Kalums

Ah, ok sounds good... Any suggestions on oil/zinc addatives?

Any reputable break in oil will be good . I used BluePrint motors brand only because it I ordered with the engine . On my flat tappet engines I usually use Driven HR1 or the HR2 oils. But for years I used off the shelf oils in my old cars never had an oil related failure

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by Kalums

Ah, ok sounds good... Any suggestions on oil/zinc addatives?

Shell Rotella T 10W30 Diesel Oil has high zinc.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-t...lcB_-pRAOlNbA5

Here is a chart from Speedway that shows some high zinc oils.

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

Shell Rotella T 10W30 Diesel Oil has high zinc.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-t...lcB_-pRAOlNbA5

Here is a chart from Speedway that shows some high zinc oils.

I got a case of Valvoline VR1, I need enough for 2 or 3 oil changes?

[Kalums]

No real progress or updates today, ordered a new flexplate for a one piece seal(externally balanced) got a case of Valvoline VR1, a few oil filters and some oil dri for the removal. Just gathering parts for the swap right now.

Anyone got a good suggestion for spark plugs? I was looking at the AcDelco platinums. *shrugs* paperwork says 0.035 gap too...

[slikside]

Originally Posted by Kalums

I've already started to set up a lawn chair gallery... You are welcome to join... Popcorn is tree-fidy... *laughs*

Thanks for the invite, but for the distance, it's tempting. That's cheap popcorn!

['68OrangeSunshine]

The old school break-in oil was Non-Detergent SAE 30 for the first 500. With GM EOS, of course. After that I went to Valvoline VR1 Racing 30 weight. VR1 has such high zinc levels, it's forbidden in Cali.

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

The old school break-in oil was Non-Detergent SAE 30 for the first 500. With GM EOS, of course. After that I went to Valvoline VR1 Racing 30 weight. VR1 has such high zinc levels, it's forbidden in Cali.

Unfortunately California's governing bodies will always find a reason... *shrugs* That will never change.

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

That is the later centerbolt heads so the center 2 intake holes are not at the same angle. You can "hog out" the holes in the intake and use wedge shims on those bolts or get a different intake.

Why can't you use the pulleys from your current engine? Serpentine is nice, but not necessary (and IMHO stay away from CS130 alternators).

Without taking it apart you will have to use an electric fuel pump.

I don't think I would do anything special other than prime well with a drill and rotate the crank a couple times while doing it. It looks pretty clean to me.

I would not do anything with plugs?

Also, this is not a roller cam engine. Be sure to use a high zinc oil and follow the break in process to the letter.

Since Holley owns Weiand and they no longer make or sell part # 90748 (shims/washers) any other ideas? Will just a set of beveled square washers work? (3/8 ID of course) I've got a lead on an Edelbrock 2104...but haven't been able to get ahold of the person selling it yet... No way I'm paying $400 for a new one 😱. Could I just "hog/notch" out the holes in my Weiand Action Plus 8004? ( not preferable, but...)

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by Cali72K20

The engine is cast as a 10243880 so it should be a roller cam but yours looks like its missing the lifter retainer and has flat tappet lifters.

https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/ccrp-0...y-small-block/

I'm going to pop off the valve covers tomorrow, other than the lack of potential for making "more" power is the fact that these are more than likely "swirl" style heads going to effect drivability... With a carb instead of TBI? Also I'm hesitant to pull apart the crate motor... But would it be worth it to change the lifters?

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by Kalums

Since Holley owns Weiand and they no longer make or sell part # 90748 (shims/washers) any other ideas? Will just a set of beveled square washers work? (3/8 ID of course) I've got a lead on an Edelbrock 2104...but haven't been able to get ahold of the person selling it yet... No way I'm paying $400 for a new one ��. Could I just "hog/notch" out the holes in my Weiand Action Plus 8004? ( not preferable, but...)

Yes, you can hog out the center 2 holes and use a beveled washer.

To change the lifters also means a cam change. Unless you are looking for max power it's not worth it IMHO. Pre-oil it well since it's been sitting and run it. Just be sure to do the proper cam break in on the first start. There are probably instructions in the packet of info with it.

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

Yes, you can hog out the center 2 holes and use a beveled washer.

To change the lifters also means a cam change. Unless you are looking for max power it's not worth it IMHO. Pre-oil it well since it's been sitting and run it. Just be sure to do the proper cam break in on the first start. There are probably instructions in the packet of info with it.

There is, and that is the plan... I did a little digging yesterday and saw that I would need a different cam... So I will pass on that expense. And I have the 083 (last 3 digits) heads.. I can't find much about those... Other than maybe a police engine or Camero... *shrugs* either way I'm still going to just send it *laughs* financially I don't have any other choice..

Correction: apparently wishful thinking on my part I was looking at the wrong number the number cast into my heads is #193... So standard TBI swirl heads

[MARKDTN]

For a stock driver truck that engine, that cam, those heads.... are just fine as a 350. Get it going and enjoy it.

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

For a stock driver truck that engine, that cam, those heads.... are just fine as a 350. Get it going and enjoy it.

Way better than a 7/6 cylinder... *laughs*
Any pointers on pulling out the old? Besides exhaust, random wires/hoses anything I should make note of before I begin pulling parts off old? Should I try taking out the old HEI first? Not sure it will clear the firewall... *thinking*

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by Kalums

Way better than a 7/6 cylinder... *laughs*
Any pointers on pulling out the old? Besides exhaust, random wires/hoses anything I should make note of before I begin pulling parts off old? Should I try taking out the old HEI first? Not sure it will clear the firewall... *thinking*

Yes, probably should pull the distributor to be safe. If it has an automatic trans, I like to pull the trans with the engine. The early motor mounts are a bit hard to line up and the transmission at the same time. Also, while thinking that, make sure your new flexplate is drilled for the torque converter that you have. It probably is, but be sure. Most people take this opportunity to change the front seal in the transmission "while it's out". Be sure the converter goes in 2 clicks so it is in the pump far enough. If you are having trouble getting the engine and transmission to fully seat, this may be why. If your crate engine is for a manual transmission you may have to remove a pilot bushing from the end of the crankshaft. Just check for that.

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

Yes, probably should pull the distributor to be safe. If it has an automatic trans, I like to pull the trans with the engine. The early motor mounts are a bit hard to line up and the transmission at the same time. Also, while thinking that, make sure your new flexplate is drilled for the torque converter that you have. It probably is, but be sure. Most people take this opportunity to change the front seal in the transmission "while it's out". Be sure the converter goes in 2 clicks so it is in the pump far enough. If you are having trouble getting the engine and transmission to fully seat, this may be why. If your crate engine is for a manual transmission you may have to remove a pilot bushing from the end of the crankshaft. Just check for that.

Both auto transmission engines, gotta leave the trans in tho, 4x4. Just hold it up with a transmission lift/stands. My plan was to line up and connect the motor mounts then scoot the transmission/transfer case forward. But again... Never done this before. If it is easier to pull all 3 at the same time...just let me know. Good call on the flexplate though I didn't think of that. I'm kinda wondering if it would be a good time to rebuild/freshen up the transmission /transfer case... Just more $$$ *sighs*

[Cali72K20]

I can save you some time for $100.00 plus shipping, it's kind of heavy.
This will come with the following:
-Stainless steel hardware
-Heater hose end
-Thermostat Housing - needed if you're going to use the hole next to it for temp gauge sending unit.

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by Cali72K20

I can save you some time for $100.00 plus shipping, it's kind of heavy.
This will come with the following:
-Stainless steel hardware
-Heater hose end
-Thermostat Housing - needed if you're going to use the hole next to it for temp gauge sending unit.

I really appreciate it, but... I just ordered the Edelbrock 2104 from Amazon a few hours ago, they had a used/returned one for 250 (your's would have been cheaper even with shipping) . I was hoping the guy local would get back to me but he has had the entire 3 day weekend and 2 texts an 2 phone calls... Apparently he didn't want to sell. *shrugs*

[Cali72K20]

No problem, just trying to help out and get you back in your truck!

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by Cali72K20

No problem, just trying to help out and get you back in your truck!

I really appreciate it. 👍

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by Kalums

Both auto transmission engines, gotta leave the trans in tho, 4x4. Just hold it up with a transmission lift/stands. My plan was to line up and connect the motor mounts then scoot the transmission/transfer case forward. But again... Never done this before. If it is easier to pull all 3 at the same time...just let me know. Good call on the flexplate though I didn't think of that. I'm kinda wondering if it would be a good time to rebuild/freshen up the transmission /transfer case... Just more $$$ *sighs*

I've never done a 4x4 with those mounts, but I would mate the engine to the transmission first and then lower it onto the mounts. You may have to loosen the frame stands to make it happen. But maybe not.

[Kalums]

Well I got the new engine up on the stand... And got a new flexplate, yesterday. Waiting on a few other parts I ordered too. Nothing really interesting... Any suggestions or leads on an oil dipstick? I'd really like one that I don't have to fall into the engine bay to grab/use. The one currently on the truck is only about 28" total and is such a pain (literally) to use... But id like accuracy over style. Finally does anyone know why GM switched to a passenger side dipstick "hole"? Seems odd to me to have transmission and oil dipsticks on the same side... Just my preference though I guess. *shrugs*

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

I've never done a 4x4 with those mounts, but I would mate the engine to the transmission first and then lower it onto the mounts. You may have to loosen the frame stands to make it happen. But maybe not.

I was wondering that myself honestly... And at the same time also wondering if I would be better off in the long run swapping my TH350 for a 700r4, I know I'd have to get the shorter output shaft for the 700r4 and move the engine forward 1.5-2"( my frame has the holes already drilled to move the engine mounts/towers)... But long term would it be worth it. *thinks* Or I could also worry about that later and focus on just getting the new engine in... and broken in correctly... *laughs*

['68OrangeSunshine]

Although it's probably easier to pull off an automatic transmission swap than a manual one, I would prefer to do it only once. If you want a 700R4, you should get it lined up so it goes in during the re-engine process. I've been watching the 700R4, and it seems they are problematic, and have a few design flaws that lead to early failure if not resolved. Never having had one, this is only hearsay, and I have no solutions.
Good luck.

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by Kalums

I was wondering that myself honestly... And at the same time also wondering if I would be better off in the long run swapping my TH350 for a 700r4, I know I'd have to get the shorter output shaft for the 700r4 and move the engine forward 1.5-2"( my frame has the holes already drilled to move the engine mounts/towers)... But long term would it be worth it. *thinks* Or I could also worry about that later and focus on just getting the new engine in... and broken in correctly... *laughs*

Is it really as easy as moving forward 1.5-2" in a 67-72? Won't you need an electric fan then? Won't the exhaust hit? I do not know, but those questions come to mind. I have an '83 K20 with 700R4. I have had the truck since '91 and it ate the original 700R4 so now it has a later one. Properly built a 700R4 is fine but you must correctly adjust the TV cable before it moves an inch. Many 700R4 transmissions die in swaps with incorrectly adjusted or not installed TV cables. I'm going to say not worth it unless this is a DD and you plan a ton of miles or plan on doing long road trips in it. What rear gear do you have now?

I would have TunedPort fuel injected it (that's what I have) if you want mileage out of it. But that is a whole different discussion.

EDIT-a search shows threads that did a 4x4 TH350 to 700R4 swap and looks like if you move the engine to keep drivelines that there can be an interference with the transmission pan unless you have a lifted truck.

[Kalums]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

Is it really as easy as moving forward 1.5-2" in a 67-72? Won't you need an electric fan then? Won't the exhaust hit? I do not know, but those questions come to mind. I have an '83 K20 with 700R4. I have had the truck since '91 and it ate the original 700R4 so now it has a later one. Properly built a 700R4 is fine but you must correctly adjust the TV cable before it moves an inch. Many 700R4 transmissions die in swaps with incorrectly adjusted or not installed TV cables. I'm going to say not worth it unless this is a DD and you plan a ton of miles or plan on doing long road trips in it. What rear gear do you have now?

I would have TunedPort fuel injected it (that's what I have) if you want mileage out of it. But that is a whole different discussion.

EDIT-a search shows threads that did a 4x4 TH350 to 700R4 swap and looks like if you move the engine to keep drivelines that there can be an interference with the transmission pan unless you have a lifted truck.

It does have a "leveling kit"... But after doing more research I've opted to keep the TH350 for now and wait until it kicks the bucket. I am honestly planning on putting this truck back to work, as it has had a dually Dana 70 rear axle swap (PO) My neighbour said he could use me to run loader/ backhoe buckets and such between job sites and the shop... *shrugs* I dunno exactly what I'm going to do for sure but I'm going to try to make it earn its keep.. So to speak.