New Shift Lever Won't Fit

[ajgriffin]

So my truck has has a B&M floor shifter in it since I've owned it and I decided I want to switch back to the column shifter. The column is a standard, non-tilt column.

I picked up a new lever from Classic Industries for a 69 and....it doesn't fit. Checked the levers for a 67-68 and a 71-72 while I was at Classic and those didn't fit either. I got the truck from my Dad who's with the Lord now so I can't ask him, asked the previous owner if they changed the column and they didn't remember swapping it out so I don't know what else to do.

I snapped some photos of it so you can see what I'm talking about. Any ideas what I should try next?

[pjmoreland]

There's a review of that shift lever on classicindustries.com that says the pivot hole didn't line up and had to be modified to get it to work.

[ajgriffin]

Got it - so try a different vendor. Easy enough 👍🏾

Anyone have success with a specific vendor so I can save on return shipping costs?

[pjmoreland]

I recommend trying to find an original.

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I recommend trying to find an original.

Yup. More than likely "another vendor" is going to be selling the exact same one you already have, just rebranded. It's the folly of aftermarket parts. About 70% of them need to be modified to fit correctly.

Gary

[Stanco]

I had the exact same problem with a new shift lever. My solution was to grind a slight amount of material off the ball end of the lever. I used a bench grinder.

[Classic Bowties]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I recommend trying to find an original.

Originally Posted by ajgriffin

Got it - so try a different vendor. Easy enough ����

Anyone have success with a specific vendor so I can save on return shipping costs?

ajgriffin, if you want to get it right with one more order and decide on locating an OE used or GM NOS shift lever for your column, feel free to drop us a message in the below linked steering column parts board f/s thread. We have a large group of original steering columns for parts pulled and stored along with several shelved bins of OE used, GM NOS and new repro replacement column parts on hand ready to ship out. Let us know, Mel


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=838093

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[Accelo]

Sometimes, I try to imagine what it would be like if GM products looked like our aftermarket stuff during assembly. It would be laughable with an output of two trucks a day.
That said, the crappy aftermarket stuff is getting and keeping many of our old trucks on the road.
It's a yin and yang thing.
On the other end, how difficult could it be to make one exactly like the OEM part? They are close, but not quite there.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Accelo

Sometimes, I try to imagine what it would be like if GM products looked like our aftermarket stuff during assembly. It would be laughable with an output of two trucks a day.
That said, the crappy aftermarket stuff is getting and keeping many of our old trucks on the road.
It's a yin and yang thing.
On the other end, how difficult could it be to make one exactly like the OEM part? They are close, but not quite there.

I have always said that it doesn't cost any more to make it right than it does to make it wrong.....

[dave6672]

Originally Posted by Stanco

I had the exact same problem with a new shift lever. My solution was to grind a slight amount of material off the ball end of the lever. I used a bench grinder.

I did the same.

[yuccales]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

I have always said that it doesn't cost any more to make it right than it does to make it wrong.....

That's a fact!

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by ajgriffin

So my truck has has a B&M floor shifter in it since I've owned it and I decided I want to switch back to the column shifter. The column is a standard, non-tilt column.

I picked up a new lever from Classic Industries for a 69 and....it doesn't fit. Checked the levers for a 67-68 and a 71-72 while I was at Classic and those didn't fit either. I got the truck from my Dad who's with the Lord now so I can't ask him, asked the previous owner if they changed the column and they didn't remember swapping it out so I don't know what else to do.

I snapped some photos of it so you can see what I'm talking about. Any ideas what I should try next?

I've been dealing with Classic Industries for a few years and I've had occasion to return something only a time or two.. I've never had to pay return shipping with them..

If, indeed your do have to pay for return shipping, you're dealing with the wrong vendor/supplier. Summit has a return policy where they provide a return shipping label complete with tracking number.. It's emailed to the customer, printed out and attached to the package.. activation of the tracking number is proof enough for Summit to either issue a refund or ship a replacement...

[ajgriffin]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

I've been dealing with Classic Industries for a few years and I've had occasion to return something only a time or two.. I've never had to pay return shipping with them..

If, indeed your do have to pay for return shipping, you're dealing with the wrong vendor/supplier. Summit has a return policy where they provide a return shipping label complete with tracking number.. It's emailed to the customer, printed out and attached to the package.. activation of the tracking number is proof enough for Summit to either issue a refund or ship a replacement...

I live driving distance from Classic Industries so I picked one up when I was down that way recently. Return shipping probably would have been easier than the 1 hour round trip drive

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by ajgriffin

I live driving distance from Classic Industries so I picked one up when I was down that way recently. Return shipping probably would have been easier than the 1 hour round trip drive

There are exceptions to every case, but having to pay for return shipping on a wrong or ill-fitting part is very poor customer service.

[Classic Bowties]

ajgriffin, we're following back up on this one per our above post, we just added the two below 69-70 shift lever options for you in post #74 of our below linked steering column parts board f/s thread, have a look and let us know if interested. Mel


#1 } GM NOS 1969-70 non-tilt steering column shift lever.
***If needed, add a New Repro shift knob to above lever***

#2 } OE Used 1969-70 non-tilt steering column shift lever.


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...26#post9365326

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[Rich69shortfleet]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

If, indeed your do have to pay for return shipping, you're dealing with the wrong vendor/supplier. Summit has a return policy where they provide a return shipping label complete with tracking number.. It's emailed to the customer, printed out and attached to the package.. activation of the tracking number is proof enough for Summit to either issue a refund or ship a replacement...

Well, to be clear, Summit makes it easy enough, but they do deduct the cost of the return shipping from the refund amount unless it was something shipped in error.

[MikeB]

This probably isn't the problem, but look in the column to make sure you can see the hole that the ball fits in. Mine had a cracked nylon "ball cover" (for lack of a better term) that was lying sideways in there. Took me 20 minutes to notice it and pull it out.

[LockDoc]

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Here is the part that MikeB is talking about. It fits over the ball on the end of the shift lever. Sometimes they come off of the ball inside the hole when you remove the handle and keep the handle from going all the way back in when you try to re-install it......

https://classicparts.com/1967-74-shi...sleeve-bushing
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[70STOVEBOLT]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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Here is the part that MikeB is talking about. It fits over the ball on the end of the shift lever. Sometimes they come off of the ball inside the hole when you remove the handle and keep the handle from going all the way back in when you try to re-install it......

https://classicparts.com/1967-74-shi...sleeve-bushing
.

Is that part absolutely necessary? I removed the one that was broken in two in my column when I replaced my shift lever. I'm guessing not, because it's been 10 years or more and it works ok. I did have to grind some material off the lever to get it to fit all the way into the opening in the shift bowl though. The lever came out of a '72, going into a '70.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

Is that part absolutely necessary? I removed the one that was broken in two in my column when I replaced my shift lever. I'm guessing not, because it's been 10 years or more and it works ok. I did have to grind some material off the lever to get it to fit all the way into the opening in the shift bowl though. The lever came out of a '72, going into a '70.

I'm guessing that there are a lot of trucks running around that don't have one because it fell apart and is down inside the mast jacket.... I would say that a stock lever probably should have one on it or it might be a little sloppy in that area.

[70STOVEBOLT]

My shift lever does not move back or forward either, I’ve pulled it pretty hard but didn’t want to break it. Any ideas who’s to remedy this without removing and disassembling the column?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

My shift lever does not move back or forward either, I’ve pulled it pretty hard but didn’t want to break it. Any ideas who’s to remedy this without removing and disassembling the column?

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Spray some PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or something similar (not WD-40) into the steering column, where the shift lever goes in. Try to get the nozzle in past the shift lever if you can. Don't be afraid to give it a good dousing. (put something on the floor if you have good carpet in it).Slowly pull the shift lever up toward you and push it back down toward the dash. It should move up and down a couple of inches when it gets loosened up. Do this 4 or 5 times. This will help free up any sticking in the shift lever tube. The reason the shift lever moves up and down is because it should be pulled back towards you to shift it into and out of the park position. Also spray the bottom of the column under the hood too..... Let me know if it still won't move.

If anyone is going to put a new anti-rattle bushing on the ball, warm the bushing up with your wife's hair dryer before you try to install it.
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