![]() |
Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
|
|||||||
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#6 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 12,407
|
Re: Cigarette Lighter and Blower Relay Wiring Questions
The nature of fuseable links is that they are a slow blow type of fuse. Meaning that if it is rated for 30 amps once exposed to 35 amps it may take as long as a minute to blow where a fuse would blow in a matter of seconds.
In your case both the fuseable link and the wiring at the fuse block were heating up simultaneously. You were only able to smell the wires in the cab. I would recommend doing a physical inspection of the fuseable link by bending or flexing the fuseable link looking for stiff or ridged areas. When a fuseable link fails it shouldn't show any signs of overheating. So flexing and stretching the link should allow you to detect any melting of the conductors inside. Another possibility is that someone in the past replaced the factory fuseable link with an incorrect wire that doesn't protect the harness. I posted some information on fuseable links in post 469 in the link http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...or#post8564169
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
|
|
|
| Bookmarks |
|
|