norms 55 chevy pu build

[dsraven]

looks great. keep plugging away and you"ll be driving in no time.
I was looking at the front bumper mounts and wonder if a bolt-on cross brace might be in order so that the flat sheet used won't be able to vibrate or shift around too easily. somebody leans on it with a foot while taking a pic while youre not there, for example. wouldn't want to scratch that nice paint.

[washington blue]

I have stood and jumped on that front end countless times and it's never moved. It's 3/16 inch plate and the 1 1/4 tube that joins them is welded all around and it's welded all around to the frame. I suppose it is possible it could move tho and you have a good idea.

[dsraven]

will your bumpers be close to the sheet metal?
you could do a quick test by having someone dry steer from lock to lock, hold at the end when turned hard each way, just for a second so as not to strain the system, and see if the frame moves around. I have seen truck frames jack one rail up when the steering hits the end limit. wouldn't wanna have a bumper scratch a fender or something. besides, a bolt on cross brace would be a quick thing to make and not burn any paint off. your truck looks really good and starting to look like a truck again. gotta feel good.

[Jason 56]

Looking good.

[washington blue]

Been putting a few things together. Of course the chrome grill did not fit, lol.
I should have installed it before paint to check I suppose. Took it apart and got it to fit.
Turned the wheels full turn from right to left to check tire clearences and they are good.

[washington blue]

Put the PSI wiring harness through the hole I made in the firewall. Got the plugs plugged in, kinda neat installation, can barely see wires.
Got the AC stuff installed on the front end, condenser, dryer and front lines. O rings oiled and tightened down.

[washington blue]

Spent hours trying to figgure out how to install the knock sensors. Checked the internet and there can be one by the starter and one by the oil filter. Can also be 2 under the intake. Finially after jacking it up and searching underneath I saw a plugin on a wire I did not recognize. I could not pull it down so assuming it was stuck I pushed it back up.

After getting the thing down off the jacks I could see that plugin at the back of the engine, so I traced it and it went under the intake. Weeellll, the PSI harness with it's 2 knock sensors was laying next to it, I couldn't help but see the plug in extension next to the engine plugin. I unplugged the extension and plugged them in together and done. My excuse was I could not see that wire coming out from under the intake and I'm sticking to it, lol.

The picture is of the extension I unplugged, finally, should have stayed in bed yesterday.

Also spent a ton of time trying to find the oil pressure plug only to learn on the PSI website they do not provide one as it is not nessesary for engine function

[washington blue]

My job today was to run the wires to the starter and the sensor located behind it. There is an open hole at the back of the block,probably for a locating pin. I ran the wires through that.

Had to take the plug off the sensor wires to fit through the hole so I had to make a tool to take the plug apart. I used some .035 welding wire flattened on the end for my tool.

The wires can never get too close to the exhaust this way.

[57FleetsideC4]

Making Great progress!! Looking nice and neat. I remember when I fit my aftermarket grille there was a lot of massaging the holes for it. Steve

[8man]

Looking good!

[dsraven]

the LS engine has 2 knock sensors under the intake in little "wells". the wells are prone to filling with water because the rubber sealing grommet for the wire gets hard etc and allows water to sit in the wells. this cause rusting of the metal knock sensor housing and eventual failure of the sensors. too bad they engineered it like that but it's too late now. anyway, when or if they go bad the intake manifold will need to come off for access. some I have replaced were rusted so badly they were hard to get out as they broke apart. the little harness also needs to be replaced in order to get soft grommets that have a chance to seal. I usually use a little "the right struff" RTV on the grommet sealing surfaces against the engine and then build a dam of RTV around the grommets to direct any water past instead of into the area. on a stock engine there was a thick piece of foam at the front and rear of the intake to try to stop the flow of water into the area i guess. it is usually hard and deteriorated as well so I usually live without that.
anyway, it sounds like you got it figured out so carry on doing great work

[washington blue]

Thanks guys, DS, I had a new cam installed by a local performance shop (Excessive Autosports) because I am not a mechanic and am not familiar with the LS. They told me when they take an engine apart they always replace the 2 sensors and foam under the intake since it's apart it just makes sense to do it then.
I'm an air head and forgot about that and the plugin hanging off the back,lol.

[dsraven]

Well, you had lots of other stuff going on so ghats acceptable, I guess. Lol.

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by washington blue

Thanks guys, DS, I had a new cam installed by a local performance shop (Excessive Autosports) because I am not a mechanic and am not familiar with the LS. They told me when they take an engine apart they always replace the 2 sensors and foam under the intake since it's apart it just makes sense to do it then.
I'm an air head and forgot about that and the plugin hanging off the back,lol.

oh man... is that foam like...important? Asking for a friend lol