First truck build '49 3100

[dsraven]

curious how much higher the filler is than the tank. I was a gas jockey for a bit during high scholl and remember a 72 chevy sport truck that came in with a set up just like that. it filled but it also took a long time and burped back a lot. have you tried filling it yet?
not dissing your build at all, looks great and good workmanship by the pics. just saying it's better to find out sooner than later so if there is a problem you can fix it before it gets painted etc

[e015475]

curious how much higher the filler is than the tank.


Maybe 6-8" - no issues filling the tank



.......it's better to find out sooner than later so if there is a problem you can fix it before it gets painted etc


That ship has sailed........

[dsraven]

Yup. Looks more like a sleek race boat than a ship. Lol. Nice job.

[Brads49]

I got the engine all done and ready, good recommendation of replacing the main seals while it's out! I ended up moving the engine and trans forward 2" to clear the distributor on the firewall although I kind of wish I would have measured more before cutting into the firewall for valve cover clearance but oh well live and learn I guess. I ran fuel lines last weekend but my only concern is where I went over top of the crossmember that the front of the bed sits on, I think I'm going to have to put a couple of bends in the line to snake it under that; I don't remember if the bed actually sits on top of it all the way across.....
I finally quit procrastinating and cut the notches in the front frame rails to make clearance for the steering so now I need to finish welding them all in and clean up the edges and paint it. Then we're on to the brake system to finish up the chassis.

[Brads49]

What are yall using for the master cylinder / brake booster setup for 4 wheel disk brakes? I see most online are listed as disk/drum or drum/drum setups. I'm planning on keeping it under the floor unless that's just not an option with having 4-week disks. Thanks in advance....

[dsraven]

If going under floor I recommend a Hydro boost from a newer donor vehicle and possibly one that comes with 4 wheel discs. The Hydro boost is a smaller system, gives good power brake boost compared to the smaller dual diaphragm vac units. If you could find a hydro boost from a silverado with your engine configuration so the brackets for the p/s pump fit or an astro van if using a sbc or something like that with disc/disc, and get the whole set up down to the power steering pump etc. That would be optimal. There are several of those shown in builds on here. Check ogres build, for one. A quick search would show more.

[dsraven]

there are a couple of hydroboost builds here if you search it from the search window above and click the circle from web to 67-72chevytrucks.com
ogre has pics and an explanation in his build
kim57 also has one in his build with pics and a home made bracket mounted further back on the frame for access

[nvrdone]

Hey Brad: Just thought I would send you some info on my brake system on my '49.
First off, it's a 327 / m21 / no power steering with front & rear stock drum brakes.
I decided to upgrade to power brakes and here's what I used: Booster kit from POL, p/n bb2-t4755. M/c from Napa, p/n m2153. Pedal mounting kit from No Limit p/n pbc-47.
The m/c is disc /disc since I plan on adding front & rear discs in the future. I have 10# check valves in both front & rear lines to make the m/c work with the drum brakes. I also have an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear line to adjust brake pressure.
It stops really well - better than it did stock - but not like my Jeep srt8.
I thought about a hydro boost but that would require power steering. Also, I was told that an under floor booster would not work with the m21 trans. But it has plenty of clearance.
Hope this info gives you somthing to think about.

[Brads49]

Thanks for the input guys! I am going with no power steering so the hydro boost set up wouldn't work for my build. I will likely piece something together like nvrdone did if I can't find a kit that lists disk/disk application. Since we have a snow day here in Oregon I'm going to finish all the suspension stuff this weekend so that I can start ordering the brake system so I can hopefully keep up the momentum on this project finally.

[dsraven]

Look for a donor car or truck that has disc/disc. Check the bore size as well. With manual brakes too large of a bore will take more pedal effort.
There was a build here that used a modified stock pedal system but the shaft for the lever went through the frame to the outside of the frame. The outer end of the shaft had the lever for the pushrod attached and the booster was mounted under the floor outside the frame. That made room for stuff between the frame rails. A search on the site may come up with some pics though.

[dsraven]

here is a thread on sizing brakes, using disc disc, what factors to consider, etc
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=806263

[dsraven]

found the thread with the booster under the floor and on the outside of the frame rail
post 5
other good info in there too
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/....php?p=7531548

[dsraven]

I see you are using a ford 8.8 rear axle with disc brakes.do you know the specs for the rotor diameter your IFS uses up front? rear discs on the ford explorer were just a hair over 11 inch I think. it will become a balancing act because no donor truck has the same weight distribution as your project but, with that said, you can do yourself a favor by starting with a set up that tries to match what you need for brakes front and rear.a front rotor would generally be the same or larger diameter than the rear rotor and probably have more friction surface area, possibly a larger pad friction surface area and possibly a larger caliper piston size or maybe a dual piston caliper. depending on what your front spindles were sized for you may be able to have the same size rotors up front as the rear axle donor had (ford exploerer?) and so may be able to use the same size master cylinder as the exploerer and the same size of caliper piston, to keep things a little better balanced to start with. then possibly an adjustable prop valve to dial in exactly what you need for brake bias once the truck is running and driving on the roadways.
personally i am not a big fan of the small diameter dual diaphragm vacuum brake booster but if you are going with an under floor installation you are generally restricted for booster diameter so thats what would fit. I really like the idea of mounting the booster outside the frame as an access panel could be built into the step area of the cab for easy servicing. if you look at the aftermarket brake booster set ups you will likely find the booster is from a donor vehicle, like an S10 or something. if you are a fabricator you could easily make the brackets and linkage required to make your own frame mounted booster. it is easier to buy a set up though, for sure.
if you have a modified engine you may need a vacuum pump and reservoir in order to have sufficient vacuum for trouble free booster operation. these are available as belt driven units, like newer LS engines come with, or electric units available in the aftermarket.
just some thoughts.