3D printed radio delete plate

[Cal10]

I recently inherited a 3d printer from a buddy who was getting poor results from it and got tired of messing with it. Took a bit to get it fixed up and decided what better thing to learn CAD and 3d printing with than some 67-72 parts.

I’m still pretty much garbage with CAD, but I’m new to it. Here is my result from copying a radio delete that was sitting on my workbench. I’ll post the STL file if anyone else on here has a 3d printer and wants it.

Ignore the neon yellow color, it came with the printer and it’s what I have for now while I’m mostly just fiddling around with this. I’ll eventually buy some better colors when I get a little better at this.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Originally Posted by Cal10

I recently inherited a 3d printer from a buddy who was getting poor results from it and got tired of messing with it. Took a bit to get it fixed up and decided what better thing to learn CAD and 3d printing with than some 67-72 parts.

I’m still pretty much garbage with CAD, but I’m new to it. Here is my result from copying a radio delete that was sitting on my workbench. I’ll post the STL file if anyone else on here has a 3d printer and wants it.

Ignore the neon yellow color, it came with the printer and it’s what I have for now while I’m mostly just fiddling around with this. I’ll eventually buy some better colors when I get a little better at this.

Damn good looking print.
Thin PLA prints can warp in the heat, so perhaps good to go 100% infill and make them 1/4" thick(I have no idea what the actual minimum would be)
...or just use PETG, which is harder to print pretty, but has better properties

[Cal10]

Originally Posted by Rust_never_sleeps

Damn good looking print.
Thin PLA prints can warp in the heat, so perhaps good to go 100% infill and make them 1/4" thick(I have no idea what the actual minimum would be)
...or just use PETG, which is harder to print pretty, but has better properties

I’m not sure I’m ready for PETG printing on this machine. It’s an old Ender 3 and hasn’t been modified at all beyond me putting a new stainless extruded gear on it.

I do have a spool of ABS still in its package that I haven’t tried out yet. This PLA is old and not been kept in any kind of dry container so I’m sure it’s not ideal as-is. I’m just burning up all this wacky neon yellow getting used to printing. I kinda like being able to see the infill with it as a newbie.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

That PLA looks great. No bubbles and it obviously wasn't brittle. Humidity isn't a problem in NorCal

PETG on a stock E3 is fine, just more heat, more retraction and print a little slower
ABS needs an all metal hotend, because that little piece of tubing in the stock one will cook at ABS temps

[Getter-Done]

Good looking print.
I had a similar experience with an E3.
I passed it on to a coworker.

I will get another (different) one later.

The settings from Thing a verse or the prints I designed would be a 50/50 shot.

I got used to turning up the heat and increasing the infill.

It was defiantly a learning experience.

[IT Cowboy]

Nice, now do a raised GM or Chevy logo in the center or a complete fake OEM radio.