Changing her engine oil to synthetic

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Just some history. She blew a cork the day I was fired because the boss was a Dk. Abusive guy, they didn't need a reason and didn't, short I saw him in his office getting a lap dance. Geez, lost my Sheba two days later. On the bright side, it allowed time to tend her, and the place hired me back a month later for more $.

I was fairly green mechanically, but my buddy helped me R&R at his place and equipment, all while I sprayed parts, and an engine bay without taping stuff off 0F-30F for days☺....Actually held-up, and what a poor job That was 1993, I believe 99K on the 402, daily driver following a rough winter.

The engine rebuilder was real good, I caught him before meth took his skills away, and life literally. 40,900 on that engine today, in short I had no reason to replace it for a restoration. I used Durablend 10-40 and 20-50 with great results. Short too many leaks Come to think of it, our R&R couldn't have been that great, standard gaskets perhaps, even old Durablend will find leaks. Today's best gaskets>>>standard, and on that note, the pans take longer bolts, so ARP>>>factory bolts for the job too.

She purred with 20-50, but they changed the formula, so I found information on this website pushing Mobil-1 Full S 5-30. At your own risk, miles may vary. But here's the thing, my experience. I didn't like the way my engine felt with that oil change, and thought bummer; it is what it is, once full synthetic engine oil is used, I've heard you can never go back.

So happened this was the last oil change before the engine was put to sleep 6-7 years, for a restore, though perhaps another for a very short duration.

With the maiden start, the engine felt better than I remembered, and really, it's been changed another three times over 900 miles Today it runs the best it ever has. No leaks with the good gaskets, so far

It's just that in my experience, IMO, when you switch oils, especially to full S, run it a short while, and then change it again.