Question: grafting entire top section.

[tutone]

Ok. I have observed many threads on roof panel repairs but can anyone attest to cutting A pillar in the (middlish), and the back of the cab, and taking the same two cuts on a different cab and grafting it on the cab you are trying to save.? I know it is like chopping a top, without removing material. I sort of want to know how it may have worked out for anyone else. Any deflection? Any hidden panels that will require stripping the outer metal on the a pillar. Any help would be appreciated. I would really like first hand knowlege before I cut up a truck.Thanks.
1972 by the way.

[Keith Seymore]

Not a 72, but we did this on one of my dad's trucks (the '75, maybe)?

You are right - basically it's the same exercise as chopping the top, except you are putting the full length of material back in.

K

[Willie Makeit]

a bit different, but kinda the same. We did this on a '76 Blazer, grafting a pickup cab to the blazer body. Cut it in the middle of the A pillar. Made a super cool, super short looking truck.

[tutone]

Thinking out loud of course. I would make my cuts somewhere in the middle of the back window. I marked the picture in the middle of the A pillar, but I really dont think it would matter if you went up nearer to the cab roof. Maybe less heat on rewelding it. I am getting ready to start back on this project truck, and it is a mess below the bottom 1/3rd. I found a more or less solid titled swb truck but the most rust is confined to around the roof. He has an absolutely perfect cab top that goes with this purchase. I sort of just was curious as to how the a pillar was fashioned. I know the cab back is just 2 panels.

[raggedjim]

A few threads

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=733516

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=685404

[Jason Banks]

I'm pretty sure there is not a hidden inner layer inside the pillars. Just an inner and outer.

I'd definitely try to brace both cabs before cutting. You might be able to just brace the top half you want to save and the bottom half you want to save. There is bound to be some tension in there somewhere, that would cause misalignment when cut.

There are some pictures in this thread:
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=655331

[dagnabbitt]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

There are some pictures in this thread:
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=655331

I have a similar project and I have been wondering if I am crazy for trying it, I will follow along for sure. I have a cab that is rotten all around the windshield and roof, I think that someone had one of those cheesy visors on it in the eighties. I looked at all the recommended threads and I like this one in particular, since they address "sleeving" the A pillars.

[tutone]

Thanks guys. This helps alot. It will all be updated in my build thread. Im probably ditching the 4x4 frame in favor of a swb 2wd chassis as well.

[chewychevy67]

Picture of mine when the roof and inside rear came off. Nothing hidden in the center area.

[tutone]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

A few threads

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=733516

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=685404

Thanks for the links. I clicked on the 2nd link and in that thread was another link to an excellant tutorial on how to attack this. @Jason Banks, you are correct.
Sleeving and bracing will be a good idea. I lifted a couple of photos from the thread. The truck turned out beautiful.

[awryexperiment]

@tutone - if you have the opportunity to grab and post photos throughout the process I'm certain future members will be indebted to you.

[tutone]

Originally Posted by awryexperiment

@tutone - if you have the opportunity to grab and post photos throughout the process I'm certain future members will be indebted to you.

I will. I think I have documented both trucks on my build thread very well so far. This b/w 72 cab is rough. I have ALL the sheet metal to restore it, but it is a C20 high hump floor cab, with not much floor left. The firewall is really solid, but the kicks are terrible and both inner and outer rockers are long gone. Im going to just flow right on with the same build thread. Even though it probably won't be a 4x4 build any more. I guess the time has come for me to decide the direction. Just check in and I usually update often once work begins.

[chiefcfd]

I did this very thing on a '63 C-10 years ago. It had been rolled over. It worked very well.

[Rick Bollinger]

Here is how I did mine. I had some rot in the bottom corners of the window as well as the whole top. I think it made it easier to get good measurements from the corner of the window. I had to remove the inside panel across the bottom of the window. I will post more pictures.

[Rick Bollinger]

My cab had been repaired at some point in in early life. From the center of the back window to the center of the floor was repaired with a donor truck. And the back half of the frame was replaced just behind the cab. Must have been a pretty bad rear end accident.

[Rick Bollinger]

I used the flat bar to ensure that I kept the window height the same. And when I cut the pillars I made a light gauge sheet metal wrap that would wrap around the pillar to get a consistent cut on both pillars. I hope this helps I had never done it before but am happy how it turned out.

[tutone]

That looks really good Rick. Thank you.

[my67c20]

I grafted a large section for my passenger A-Pillar and what I learned is make sure to install doors, add enough weight to simulate stuff not in the cab and put the thing on the suspension when fitting things up. I braced everything, but that was about it and now my passenger door does not fit as well as it should, had i taken more care. Just my 2 cents

[Jason Banks]

Way to go Rick! Seems like cutting down that far on the back would be a great way to make sure everything lines up. It would kind of scares me to cut in the middle of the pillars and hope I could get it fit back up perfectly.

my67c20 That sounds like great advice to hang the doors and have it sitting on the frame on the suspension.

[tutone]

Originally Posted by Rick Bollinger

I used the flat bar to ensure that I kept the window height the same. And when I cut the pillars I made a light gauge sheet metal wrap that would wrap around the pillar to get a consistent cut on both pillars. I hope this helps I had never done it before but am happy how it turned out.

I have had a chance now to study the photos. Rick, did you seperate the bottom of the rear window and use it for alignment? It is hard to tell. But now after looking, I am leaning towards your method. The inner cut in the cab could actually go below the seat top line. The cleanup and touch up inside would be minimal. To me the inside welding and bodywork is much more tedious.

[Rick Bollinger]

When I cut out the inner panel at the bottom of the window, I cut it where I thought it would be easiest to repair. If I remember right, it was up from the bottom of the window over to the door opening. I used a small 1/8" drill bit to drill the center of the spot welds, then used a spot weld drill bit to drill out the spotwelds from the inside of the cab being careful not to drill through the outside panel. Removed that section then cut the top out. Going back together just backward. When I put the inside bottom panel back in I overlapped the original bottom panel with the new top that I left long and positioned it and marked then cut it to match. (inside panel below shoulder belt). The new roof weld at the bottom corner of window will be hid on the inside of the cab by this panel. But you MUST clean up the welds on the inside and epoxy and seal the hidden weld or it will rust shortly. When my paint is completely done, I am going to cavity seal this area as well as the roof through the visor openings and dome light to protect it as long as I can.

[Rick Bollinger]

Here is a picture before I put the bottom panel back in. If you are tall I have seen people notch out and cap the bottom panel to let the seats go back further. But you really weaken the back wall. But it does look cool.

[Rick Bollinger]

looking back at the pictures I cut the cab below the drip edge on the outside and around. It's been two years plus now.

[tutone]

I see now. Very clean job. Im guessing you were able to manuver well with some well placed slings and a good hoist. Nothing that turns out well is easy. Good job.