Move brake pedal closer to floor

[MikeB]

I converted my 69 C10 from manual drums to power discs ~30 years ago using a master cylinder, booster and linkages from a 71 or 72 C10. I don't recall changing the pedal.

Here's my issue: The brake pedal sits too high off the floor, so with my long legs I actually have to roll my knee to the right, away from the steering wheel before I can lift my leg off the throttle pedal and step on the brake pedal. And then keep my knee cocked to the right so it doesn't hit the 15" steering wheel. This is no doubt made worse by shortening the steering column 1 inch. And while the zero offset wheel is a comfortable reach, it also adds to the problem.

So, would a 71-72 power brake pedal be bent differently and sit closer towards the angled section of the floor? Or will my linkage allow for some adjustment of my current pedal? When pressing on the pedal as hard as I can, there's still 2.5" from the back of the pedal to the floor, so I could easily get by with moving the pedal forward 1 inch.

it just occurred to me that a dished steering wheel would help a little, but would be closer to my body. As Charlie Brown would say, Aargh!

[Steeveedee]

I've seen where people have cut the brake lever and rewelded it so that the pedal is lower. There is very little adjustment to be had. I'd like this feature in my truck too, but I'm too old and arthritic to get in there and do it. There really is no reason except the general not wanting to make different part numbers, I guess.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I'd like this feature in my truck too, but I'm too old and arthritic to get in there and do it.

These days, for me it's just trying to get started. Recently knocked out a couple relatively simple projects that I had been putting off for no good reason.

• Replaced my 69 shift lever with a shorter 67-68 lever to better match my 15" steering wheel. (Not as trivial as it sounds.)
  
• Spent 4-5 hours working with the passenger door to get it to open and close easier than ever in the 36 years I've had the truck. As a bonus, I got rid of some wind noise.
  
  Next up: Replace leaking fuel pump mounting gasket(s), which used to be an easy 1-2 hour job. But it now seems intimidating!

[weq92f]

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Seems to me, based on my limited experience jacking around with the mechanisms that transmit foot power to the booster/MC, a guy could shorten that connection by an inch* and move the pedal stop to hold it in the new location (prevent negative pressure pulling out of the booster/MC).

* The threaded rod going into the clevis shortened by 1 inch, which would move the pedal an inch away from the stop and closer to the floor.

The other thing you could do is put a new hole in the brake pedal bar just below the existing one and attach the clevis there. This would likely move the pedal a small amount and, apparently, helps with the ratio/feel on disc converted trucks.

Hth,

-Kevin

[Steeveedee]

Then there wouldn't be a positive stop for the return spring, and the brake light switch would have to be moved as well.

[dmjlambert]

The brake system was engineered with a safety margin and there are specs that require a certain amount of pedal clearance from the floor. So you're probably getting ready to mess with those specs.

With that said you certainly need to consider that these trucks were just designed for short people, and people are significantly taller now. I'm 5'10" and too tall for the truck as designed. It seems obvious the design engineers back in the 60s were about 5'2" or shorter to fit comfortably in their own design. If you have to do tricks with your legs just to press the pedal that causes a safety problem that requires you to re-engineer.

Steeveedee's suggestion of cut and weld the lever seems like a good idea. I would probably weld into the lever a Z-shape section and make really sure it is a good solid weld and possibly bolt on a stout metal reinforcment plate. Maintain some clearance between the fully depressed brake pedal and the floor.

I wonder if anybody has cut out a section of firewall and extended it into the engine compartment to get more leg room.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

With that said you certainly need to consider that these trucks were just designed for short people, and people are significantly taller now. I'm 5'10" and too tall for the truck as designed. It seems obvious the design engineers back in the 60s were about 5'2" or shorter to fit comfortably in their own design.

And the 66 and earlier trucks were even tighter!

As you suggested, maybe modifying the pedal would be a good way to go. I have a nice MIG setup, but don't know if I'd trust myself to do something that's safety related.

[dmjlambert]

OMG I just got a 63! Not running yet, but I'll be folding myself into it and driving down the road one of these days.

[weq92f]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

...<snip>...
I wonder if anybody has cut out a section of firewall and extended it into the engine compartment to get more leg room.

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I remember several years back seeing a TV custom build show (Kindig?) where they extended the length of the cab. It was done for this reason...big guy building a C10. Don't remember though exactly how it was done.

-Kevin

[dmjlambert]

Extending the floor into the engine compartment would be a hidden way to do that. The inner fender wheel well would have to be modified a little but would probably not interfere with "normal" size wheels and tires.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by weq92f

.

I remember several years back seeing a TV custom build show (Kindig?) where they extended the length of the cab. It was done for this reason...big guy building a C10. Don't remember though exactly how it was done.

-Kevin

I remember that. I think it was an early 60s truck. Incredible work!

[Rust_never_sleeps]

There's an old thread on altering the linkage, (and I'm sure many more on notching and welding the pedals)

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=516070

[LockDoc]

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Is the rubber bumper missing from the pedal stop plate? I'm not sure how much difference that would make but maybe some.... If you have enough pedal travel maybe you could put a thicker rubber bumper in the hole.
.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

The brake system was engineered with a safety margin and there are specs that require a certain amount of pedal clearance from the floor. So you're probably getting ready to mess with those specs.

With that said you certainly need to consider that these trucks were just designed for short people, and people are significantly taller now. I'm 5'10" and too tall for the truck as designed. It seems obvious the design engineers back in the 60s were about 5'2" or shorter to fit comfortably in their own design. If you have to do tricks with your legs just to press the pedal that causes a safety problem that requires you to re-engineer.

Steeveedee's suggestion of cut and weld the lever seems like a good idea. I would probably weld into the lever a Z-shape section and make really sure it is a good solid weld and possibly bolt on a stout metal reinforcment plate. Maintain some clearance between the fully depressed brake pedal and the floor.

I wonder if anybody has cut out a section of firewall and extended it into the engine compartment to get more leg room.

Brakes in a 1/2T are the same size as Cadillacs. Cadillacs have the brake pedal closer to the floor like just about every other automobile. I can see a truck with a clutch having a longer throw, and matching the brake pedal height to that. Spec for brake application is something like 3/8" before they engage. I have front disc brakes (now) and self-adjusting rear brakes. I replaced everything when I did the disc brake install, and everything in the rear brakes too. The pedal barely moves (3/8" or so) and the brakes are applied. Hard on them, the pedal moves maybe 3/4".

I went and measured the distance from the brake lever to the floor. It's right at 4". 2" could be easily taken out of that, if needed. That wouldn't require modification of the existing brake configuration. YMMV

How far off the floor is the brake pedal in a car? 4" may be the case, which means extending the cab floor could be an option. I ain't doing that. Fact is, I ain't moving the pedal, as it is. I barely fit from steering wheel to pedal, as it is though. Tall people (I'm 5'-9") have it tough, though.

[MikeB]

Thanks for the ideas. That's some clever work by Jocko back in 2012!

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Brakes in a 1/2T are the same size as Cadillacs. Cadillacs have the brake pedal closer to the floor like just about every other automobile. I can see a truck with a clutch having a longer throw, and matching the brake pedal height to that. Spec for brake application is something like 3/8" before they engage. I have front disc brakes (now) and self-adjusting rear brakes. I replaced everything when I did the disc brake install, and everything in the rear brakes too. The pedal barely moves (3/8" or so) and the brakes are applied. Hard on them, the pedal moves maybe 3/4".

I went and measured the distance from the brake lever to the floor. It's right at 4". 2" could be easily taken out of that, if needed. That wouldn't require modification of the existing brake configuration. YMMV

How far off the floor is the brake pedal in a car? 4" may be the case, which means extending the cab floor could be an option. I ain't doing that. Fact is, I ain't moving the pedal, as it is. I barely fit from steering wheel to pedal, as it is though. Tall people (I'm 5'-9") have it tough, though.

Interesting thoughts, also reminds me of how many Chevelle parts are similar, as many on this forum have pointed out numerous times

[custom10nut]

Though there is “ Very little Adjustment”, could you reduce the length of the pushrod, to lower your pedal?

[MikeB]

OP here. Well I adjusted the pushrod so the pedal is approximately 1.75" closer to the floor. With the engine idling creating max vacuum, the pedal stops a good 2.5"-3" from the floor when I stand on it.

I can't adjust the brake light switch because one of the adjuster nuts is cross-threaded on the plastic switch, and you need to have extra joints in your hands to get in there with a wrench while holding the switch body. Just ordered a new Std Motor Products switch. Should take only a couple hours to install it!

As for the stop bumper, I glued a 1/4" thick rubber "foot" on the existing rubber stop. If that doesn't work, I'll modify a door stopper like Jocko did in this thread. (The pedal arm travel is very much up close to the pivot point.)
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=516070

It's a real PITA working in that area. It's all coming back to me now from 30 years ago when I converted to Power brakes.

[Steeveedee]

I'm looking at potentially taking the seat out for a different issue. I may try this then. Take lots of pics, please, I'm getting old and lazy!

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I'm looking at potentially taking the seat out for a different issue. I may try this then. Take lots of pics, please, I'm getting old and lazy!

I'm still messing around with this, so will take some pics before I button things up.

Again, I can't begin to say how difficult it is to work up under the steering column. And I can't imagine how a mechanic would have replaced and adjusted the brake light switch. I think I'll try to find an alternative location for it.

As for shortening the pushrod length, the pivot bolt connecting the brake pedal arm to the pushrod is a b!tch to pull out and push back in.

Enough whining.

[Steeveedee]

I did adjust the pushrod length and the stoplight switch. That was hell on an old man. I did this sort of thing for a living before I graduated uni in '83, but still work on my own (old) stuff as much as I can.

[Rick Bollinger]

The stock bumper stop on my 68 was about a quarter in thick. The new one that I ordered was a full half inch thick. So I kept the original one. I am hoping my truck will be done in the next couple of months so I may need to swap this out anyway. I'm guessing a quarter inch up top will make an inch or so lower pedal.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Rick Bollinger

I'm guessing a quarter inch up top will make an inch or so lower pedal.

Maybe more than 1 inch. Trouble is you have to get the clevis off and on the pedal arm a few times to get it right.

Headed out soon to fight the beast again! Will take some pics then.

Haven't done anything since Tuesday because I had some guys install a mini-split, so I can work in the shop on 20° and 100° days here in North Texas.

[weq92f]

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Regarding the royal PITA it is to remove and then reinstall the clevis...

During my period of adjustment and testing, I enlisted a friend and we would unbolt the booster from the firewall each time I needed to R&R the clevis from the brake pedal arm in order to adjust rod length.

It was so much less hassle than fighting against it.

Hth,

-Kevin

[MikeB]

Finally done. Brake pedal ended up 1.5" closer to floor than stock. Haven't driven the truck yet because I want to put some sound deadening material on the floor under the seat.

Biggest pain for me was adjusting the brake light switch. In fact it now comes on with very little pedal movement. Will keep my eye on it.

I'm pretty bad at taking "before" pictures, but below are a couple "after" pics. Also one under-dash picture. The brake light switch is harder to adjust than it looks. Of course the top nut on mine is cross threaded.