55.2-59 Auto to manual choke conversion

[popeyestruck]

I have a bc carb on my truck that start good when cold but once the motor starts to cool the choke closes and the only way to get it started is to pop the hood and hold the choke open. I live in florida and its not often I need full choke. Yesterday after sitting 2 hours in the 90 degree heat it wouldn't start. Another time I just drove to the gas station and had to do the same thing. I'd like ore control over this. I was thinking about changing it to a manual choke and saw this kit. Any ideas if this will work? Dorman 55104 Choke Conversion Kit Universal Fit. Heres a video of some doing a electric to manual on a newer ford https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vsej...etMotorRevival I think the same kit would work

[Hcb3200]

look pretty straight forward to me. had manual choke on my 56 with chevy small block in it before I converted to LS and it gave men plenty of control when starting. And a good laugh when someone else tried to start it. The video look good to follow.

[vintovka]

I have the reverse issue. Always kinda cold here and the when first starting the electic choke works fine. If its been a couple days and it does't start immediatly the choke opens too quickly and starting is hard. Was thinking of adding a an electric choke kill switch to cutoff the power and keep the choke closed until the engine starts and no longer needed. Switch could also be used to open choke faster when needed. Not sure if making any sense but curious to see comments.

[geezer#99]

I’ve used several of those kits over the years. Main use was because I prefer to have full control of the choke. I’ve put manual chokes on divorced choke carbs like the quadrajet. Simply made a bracket that used a bellcrank linkage to replace the linkage rod.
Do you have a pic of your carb and choke?

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by vintovka

I have the reverse issue. Always kinda cold here and the when first starting the electic choke works fine. If its been a couple days and it does't start immediatly the choke opens too quickly and starting is hard. Was thinking of adding a an electric choke kill switch to cutoff the power and keep the choke closed until the engine starts and no longer needed. Switch could also be used to open choke faster when needed. Not sure if making any sense but curious to see comments.

Sounds like your choke pull off isn’t set up right.

[popeyestruck]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

I’ve used several of those kits over the years. Main use was because I prefer to have full control of the choke. I’ve put manual chokes on divorced choke carbs like the quadrajet. Simply made a bracket that used a bellcrank linkage to replace the linkage rod.
Do you have a pic of your carb and choke?

I can see a problem since my choke is 180 degrees from the firewall not 90 like the video. Any ideas?

[geezer#99]

All you need to do is make a bracket to hold the cable in place. The brackets with that kit are generic at best.
Biggest pain I encountered was finding an available bolt or screw to mount the bracket to.
And I didn’t care if it looked ugly as long as it functioned well.

I did have a couple chokes that I had to run the cable cable around the front of the carb to make it work.

[mr48chev]

You just need a long enough cable to reach with the loop to get to the choke but if the choke worked fine in the past but has started acting up lately I'd be getting a can of good carb and choke cleaner and spraying down the choke area inside the air horn. Then I would take the automatic choke apart and pull the piston out and clean it and flush out the bore that it is in and remember the adjustment settings. Actually take your phone or camera and get a good clear shot of the face of the choke from the front where you can see how it is adjusted now so you have it for reference before you take it apart.

I've put a few of those kits on for people over the years and they are pretty simple to set up. Your call if you want to spend the time and money there but you will still have to buy that can of CRC and clean the choke plate and area around it anyhow.

[popeyestruck]

Everythings clean . I just rebuilt it. I have just started taking it out on longer drives since I built the truck so I have no history as to how it worked before. I bought the kit on sale on amazon for $15 and I'll give it a try . Since its so hot here in florida I really shouldnt need to use it very often . Just leave it open

[popeyestruck]

Before I change it over to manual I set the choke so when its closed its open about 1/4 inch. I might have to play with it a bit but this morning it was 70 degrees and it started right up cold . Better than usual. It will be 90 degrees most days here so I dont think I really need a choke

[leegreen]

it sounds like your choke has either failed or was/is not adjusted properly and the bimetal spring is not holding the choke open when it should.

where do you have the other end of the choke heat tube (line from the side of the round choke housing) hooked to?

Converting to manual will fix your problem, but fixing the existing choke is probably less work than making a bracket and routing the cable to dash.

[popeyestruck]

Yes I think this old choke just needs better adjustment. Maybe over the years its lost some of its spring. It does open fully but closes too fast . The heat riser is where it should be on the exhaust manifold. I was wondering at what temp does the spring open the choke? I would think on a 90 degree day it shouldnt be closed

[leegreen]

other than having driven a couple that 'just worked' I am not that familiar.

But they suck hot air from the manifold through the choke and into base of carb by way of a vacuum activated piston, so taking the cover off to see how grungy it all is and making sure both the heat line and vacuum line are clear are probably good first steps.

https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Cho...B_ep_1990.html