New to this series of trucks

[Stephen717]

So I'm picking up a 77 C10 tomorrow and I'm going to have to do a few things to make it road worthy, my main concern at the moment is that the steering wheel lock was broken, does anyone know if I can get the lock pin, plate, and retaining spring anywhere to fix this problem. My plan is to fix this up and use it as a semi daily driver until the next project comes along, it'll keep miles off my daily car and get me back into a truck while I fix my 69 c10. If anyone could help me find these parts it'd be greatly appreciated. I'll post a few of the pics I have tonight and better pics of the truck tomorrow evening when I get it home if there's still plenty of daylight.

[Stephen717]

Pics

[Getter-Done]

Are you close to the Pick and Pull?

That would be where I would start trying to find parts,
If that is convenient for you.

Link: https://carolinapicknpull.com/invent...-search=Search

Looks like a Nice little project.

Make sure to oil those hood hinges.

[Stephen717]

I'm taking blaster with me for the 3ott linkage and will make sure to spray some on the hinges as well, hadn't thought about pick-n-pull but I might be able to get less dented maybe less rusted out fenders there as well and potentially a nicer gauge cluster. Thanks for the idea, I have a local pick and pull in Conway SC and usually see a few square body trucks out there once the truck is running I can use it to go get parts for it

[LEEVON]

You can get a non-tilt column off marketplace all day, and if you're patient a tilt column. Yes you can also get rebuild parts, they're not too hard to rebuild but you'll need a lock plate tool. Just be aware there are a quite a few column differences from 73-80.

[rodstored-72]

nice beginning.. for sure check pick/pulls in the area also social media forms for "sale" items. i have some take off parts from my '86 build (did LS Swap) so i have some parts "sittin' 'round" .... LOL!

This forum board is a great wealth of knowledge so make sure to look around!

[Stephen717]

Originally Posted by LEEVON

You can get a non-tilt column off marketplace all day, and if you're patient a tilt column. Yes you can also get rebuild parts, they're not too hard to rebuild but you'll need a lock plate tool. Just be aware there are a quite a few column differences from 73-80.

I've been offered one out of an 84 if it will fit, non tilt but doesn't have to be tilt so long as I can get the truck on the road again

[Stephen717]

Sending pics through now, she's rough but she'll be a good truck

[Stephen717]

More pics

[Stephen717]

And more pics

[Stephen717]

So far all I've done is get it, run it through a self serve auto wash, take it home, get it off the trailer, then came straight to work so I wouldn't sleep through my alarm. I'm gonna see if I can't get it running tomorrow with a jump pack and a 2 barrel I have laying around since I still need an ignition cylinder

[Stephen717]

Flipped the visor down and found this catalytic converter info which was neat, also found the factory manual in the glove box, put a new ignition cylinder in it this morning and found someone was already in the column cause the lock pin is fully missing. Also found out it needs shifter bushings to shift smooth, lastly it cranked which tells me the motor is free and I found this old emblem in my shop which seemed fitting for it since the holes were already in the hood

[Stephen717]

Spare tire that's older than the tires on the truck holds air, now I can creep it to a shop to have the new tires installed and an alignment done when I get it some new tires, the next thing is I'm getting a new battery for it today and I'm going to potentially put a different carburetor on it this afternoon as long as it doesn't rain. I also need to find a rear seal for the master cylinder so I can bleed the brakes.

[Shifty One]

Keep posting pics of your progress!

[Stephen717]

Will do, at work until Sunday but then I plan on getting it running, I have a new battery, a new master cylinder, and a new 2 barrel carburetor with electric choke and progressive linkage that's been sitting in my shop for a few months now. I also have to siphon most of a tank of old fuel out of it so I'm not gumming up a brand new carburetor. Then Tuesday I'm going to get a chrome bumper for it which is coming with a dash for my other project truck, and I'm going to run by pick and pull to see if I can't find a fender or two and a headlight surround.

[Dead Parrot]

Consider getting a Fram G3 (3/8") inline fuel filter and put it between the frame and engine fuel pump. Better it catch any rust and other crap then the fuel pump and the filter in your new carb.

[Stephen717]

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

Consider getting a Fram G3 (3/8") inline fuel filter and put it between the frame and engine fuel pump. Better it catch any rust and other crap then the fuel pump and the filter in your new carb.

Planned on running 2 there, as well as one just after the pump before the carb

[GSP7]

How much $$$ did you pay for baby blue?

[Stephen717]

Understandable $2k, and getting it legal safe and on the road I'll be under $3,500

[Stephen717]

Found out I need to get a fuel tank for it, so that's one more item to buy. Not sure on the sending unit which one to buy though as I'm seeing them with either 2 or 3 ports.

[Dead Parrot]

Originally Posted by Stephen717

Found out I need to get a fuel tank for it, so that's one more item to buy. Not sure on the sending unit which one to buy though as I'm seeing them with either 2 or 3 ports.

Could be the hose(s) instead of the tank but if that is an original tank, hard not to suspect it as well.

2 or 3 port sender depends on the emission setup on the truck. Does the fuel pump have a return to tank port in addition to the normal suck from tank port? Does/did the truck have a charcoal canister?

Non-cat trucks often only had 2 ports - 1 for suction to the fuel pump, 1 with a vent on it. Cat trucks normally had 3 ports - 1 for suction, 1 for return and 1 vent that went to the canister.

But, lots of variations depending on HD vs LD, state sold in, how it was ordered.

If you have an engine hoist, almost easier to lift the bed off and repair/replace the tank(s) from above. Also makes changing the rear brake hose simpler.

[Stephen717]

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

Could be the hose(s) instead of the tank but if that is an original tank, hard not to suspect it as well.

2 or 3 port sender depends on the emission setup on the truck. Does the fuel pump have a return to tank port in addition to the normal suck from tank port? Does/did the truck have a charcoal canister?

Non-cat trucks often only had 2 ports - 1 for suction to the fuel pump, 1 with a vent on it. Cat trucks normally had 3 ports - 1 for suction, 1 for return and 1 vent that went to the canister.

But, lots of variations depending on HD vs LD, state sold in, how it was ordered.

If you have an engine hoist, almost easier to lift the bed off and repair/replace the tank(s) from above. Also makes changing the rear brake hose simpler.

There is a hole in the top of the tank (look to the left of the filler neck hose), it had a catalytic converter from the factory but doesn't now, and unsure if it ever had a charcoal canister under the hood. Would have to look at the fuel pump tomorrow to see if there's a return line on it which I didn't know carbureted vehicles had, and I do have a cherry picker but I know the bed has never been off this truck and I'd be worried about the bolts for it breaking on me. There's no fuel in it due to the hole in the tank allowing for evaporation so I'm just going to suffer through dropping the tank from underneath.

[Stephen717]

not been able to do much lately due to work, I've got the drivers door where it will fully open now but the gap is horrible, still need to get the fenders replaced with some straight-ish junkyard fenders. I also need to put the new fuel tank in as the old one is out and I have to replace one of the belts as one of the belts I ordered worked great and the other was too long. I've traced the wiring in the cab for the headlights and found everything to get power so my headlights not lighting up is a connection at the bulkhead that I'll have to clean (yes I replaced the floor dimmer, was the first place I checked after confirming the switch had correct power), other than that I found that I need to figure out where the relay for the blower motor is as the new resistor (and the old resistor) work a little too well and the blower motor wont turn off when the key is in the accessory position.

[Dead Parrot]

IIRC - a heat only truck didn't have a relay.
Also, some of the trucks came with a feature where the blower motor will run all the time on very low. There is no true off. Don't know if that was an AC only thing or applied to all trucks in the year range where that was a feature. I would think it would be off in ACCY but I rarely use ACCY so don't remember if mine runs.

My 75 w/AC has the always run feature. My 84 CUCV/K30 doesn't(heat only)

[Stephen717]

I, honestly didn't know that was a thing. Ended up not being able to sit still last night so I got the new fuel tank in and got the headlights working. Need to get the bulbs replaced in the side markers and make sure the reverse lights have power then all the lights will be working. After that it's just windshield, fenders, tires, and brakes