55.2-59 Traction bars

[leegreen]

Slapper bars do work to eliminate wheel hop. My DD the last couple years would be undrivable in rain or doing burnout without them. Mine in function are same as what stepside Jim posted but on a S10 with spring under. Snubber hits very front of spring at the bushing. Here are some observations:

When the snubber hits the spring the suspension stiffens up quite a bit and is faster in rebound, that can be an issue trying to accelerate across dips, frost heaves etc. It can also affect handling when you nail it on sweeping highway turn with any dips.

If you load your truck down onto the snubber you will have very harsh ride, make the slapper bumper height adjustable, removable or do something like helper bags or air shocks so you can bring ride height back up.

A longer bar will reduce the tendency to lift the back of the truck. Essentially what those 3rd gen camaros do, torque arm goes all the way up to tailshaft into a crossmember mounted bushing it can slide back and forth in.

I may have misunderstood dsraven's description, but I think he described a fixed length connection between axle and front spring pivot. That would be harsh riding and put a lot of force/wear on spring bushings, but it would stop spring wrap related wheel hop.

You could build a bolt on slapper bar for spring over with a plate between axle and spring to weld the bar to, bring the plate sides out past spring pack so you can add some gussets.

The best leaf spring solution is a longer torque arm, like the camaro style with bushing or lifted 4x4 style with a shackle.

or caltracks, but I have never driven one to comment on it

you might be able to solve your problem bolting on the long 'overload' leaf from a 2000 era 1/2 ton, they are essentially a double ended slapper bar