47-59 Help! 4L65E transmission (part of Connect & Cruise package) not shifting

[Chopped53]

Hi all. Looking for advice from the transmission experts on the forum. I built my '53 from the ground up with my dad, but we are more "tin tappers" than "wrench turners". I'm hoping you can help.

A few years ago, I got a "Connect and Cruise" crate engine package from the parts guys at the local dealer. It's a 350 with an 4L65e transmission.

Generally, it has been running great for four years and 10,000 miles since I finished my build.

But I have had an intermittent problem that bothers me. Two or three times over the last few years, the transmission seems to completely forget how to engage a gear. When I shift it into Drive or Reverse it will barely move. The problem seems to coincide with the spring season when I bring the truck out of winter hibernation. After letting it sit for a while and then trying again, it seems to figure out how to engage first gear but then it won't shift into second. After waiting awhile again, it decides to work properly and then it runs perfectly for a year or more. Weird.

It just did it again last weekend when I started the truck up for the first time since November.

Do you think it is an electronics issue or a mechanical issue? I believe the Connect and Cruise packages come with an electronic control module that is different from original. Maybe it takes time to wake up, or needs a reboot?

Have you heard of this happening before? Is it something to be concerned about?

Any ideas how to address the problem?

Thanks for your help.

[Hcb3200]

Since its after sitting for a very long time. you could have air in internals that just needs to get moving along. I had one that dropped the filter so it never picked up fluid but since yours gets going after a while. Question do you un hibernate it then just fire it up and see if it goes? how long is your first warmup. next time after a full long sit. Check fluid level before starting cold. Then check it not running after its warmed up and note its movement. should be lower than cold original measurement. you could drop the pan and inspect filter for any crack or seal issue that once all the lubrication gets going it seals enough for good suction. A good drop the pan and check for any metal would be a good idea as well. Since you have what would be considered low miles should not be much in there but minor fines. it is electronic solenoid controlled. But you would think you would be having the issues all the time. if your torque converter is drained during the long sit it may just be needing time to get all that air moving out and fluid in all the right places.

[Hcb3200]

High level read if you want some flow and order details.

https://www.shopownermag.com/dynamic...-and-shifting/

[Hcb3200]

Oh and if your transmission fluid it contaminated. it can have some sticky situations on the clutch packs after sitting a long time. And it getting hot and fluid moving it will get moving. a fluid check or pan drop will prove that out as well.

[Chopped53]

Thanks for the info and the link. I will give that article a read.

I keep the truck stored inside for the winter. In the spring time, I usually need to prime the carb a bit and it starts up right away. Then I let is run for 10 minutes or so before trying to move it. Last weekend, when I first tried to move the truck, it almost felt like it was in neutral. It just crept along at a snail's pace even though I was giving it gas. I put it back in park and let it run for another 5-10 minutes. When I tried again, it felt normal in first gear, but would not shift into second. After parking again and waiting a few minutes, it ran fine.

One thought: The transmission fluid level is bit high. It's above the range on the dipstick while it's running and after it is warmed up. Could that be the problem?

[dsraven]

I always pull the dipstick and wipe it on a clean white paper towel or rag. see what the color is easily this way. it should be a nice red color, not a reddish brown or some other color between those two. also smell the fluid to see if it has a normal trans fluid smell or if it has a slightly burnt smell. I would advise to do a fluid change including dropping the pan and changing the filter. this is a regualr maintenance thing like changing oil on the engine would be. just expect to do a fluid change at regular intervals or yearly. it's a fairly cheap way of knowing whats going on inside the trans. if you find a whack of black stuff in the bottom of the pan then you know thats likely clutch pack material, etc. you can also see the condition of the filter and what it's been grabbing. if experiencing trans issues you might consider an additive to run through the system for a bit prior to changing the fluid. chat with your local transmission supplies shop to see what they recommend, the place where the local rebuilders buy their parts
when you remove the pan maybe think about installing a drain plug or getting a pan with a drain plug. just tidier that way. it makes it easier to do your regular service without the dread of cleaning up the big mess. also one of those big catch pans that fits on top of your drain pan is a great idea, they're like a big funnel sorta
remove pan, let the trans drip for a few minutes, then quickly check the filter depth, how far it hangs down from the pan flange, then compare that to the depth of the pan. just to be sure the filter matches the pan depth. check the pan for any marks that would indicate the fikter was hanging down too close to the bottom of the pan
pull the filter and check for any cracks etc that may allow air to be introduced. you just never know. possibly the installer of the filter was having trouble getting it pushed into the seal and it got a little more help than it should have had
check the seal thats up inside the trans where the filter pushed in. see if it was doing it's job correctly. then remove the seal and replace it with a new one
you might consider one of those donut chaped magnets that sit in the bottom of the pan and collect metallic "silt"
check your torque converter for a drain. some do and some don't have one. no harm checking though
check up inside the bellhousing for any signs of leakage. I know, its a tough check but if there is a leak it should show up as a drip, keep floowing the drip upwards as far as you can see. do you remember any problems when you installed the engine and trans, as far as with the torque converter getting moved in or out? once it is installed they really don't like to be disturbed. there are seals on the stator shaft that seal against the torque converter and these can get damaged with too much "abuse" when installing the trans to the engine.
when the pan is off quickly check the depth of the dipstick when fully inserted into the dipstick tube. compare that to what the depth should be for a proper level on your model of trans
when assembling the new filter to the trans be firm but gentle so as not to damge the seal or the filter
check all the fluid cooler lines to ensure there is no restrictions or kinks

when the trans sits for awhile it can bleed fluid back to the pan. running the engine with the trans in park circulates fluid through the cooler lines etc but not into any of the clutch packs until you select a gear. it also it may have a variable displacement pump that is controlled by solenoids and electronics so changing the fluid can't hurt. sometimes a fluid change can help free up anything that is possibly not loving life after sitting for awhile. thats why I suggested the trans fluid conditioner. this also falls into the category of "check what the local rebuiders are using". don't just go to the local auto parts store and get the best snake oil they have. lol.
dropping the pan for an oil change doesn't get all the old fluid out but it does get you a look inside the trans and a new filter. sometimes, on problem vehicles, I will do this and then take the vehicle to a shop that has a machine that changes the fluid with the engine running. these replace the old fluid with new fluid and connect to the cooler lines. that means it changes the fluid in the whole system, trans pan, converter and cooler. it sorta does this "on the fly" so it is diluting the old fluid in the pan with the new fluid coming back into the system. one should always ask how many liters or quarts wuill be used in the flush and then compare that to how many your system holds. that way you can get an idea of the "dilution rate". some shops are good that way and some are simply "gettin it done" without concern for why they are doing it.
dunno if that helped but it's turning into a book so i'll stop here. lol.

[Chopped53]

Thanks "dsraven"! I really appreciate the info. It's interesting to learn that, after it has been sitting for a long time, the fluid does not flow into the clutch packs until a gear is selected. That resonates with my situation. It could probably use some fresh fluid and good look inside anyway, so I will do that. You guys are great on this forum. Thanks again!

[dsraven]

if youre still having issues I suggest to try the guys at dominion automatic. they are near chinook mall. very fair guys who check things out and give you a fair quote, not a bunch of extra work, just what actually needs to be done.
https://www.dominionautomatic.com

[mr48chev]

I'd go with the concept that the converter is draining back into the pan when the trucks sits for that long and it takes a couple of goes for it to get back to normal. It goes right along with the float bowl going dry over the same time period and having to prime it. Annoying things that just happen and once you take care of them because now you know that they will happen life goes on. If it has done exactly the same every year I wouldn't worry about it because the only fix is driving it when you really don't want to be on the Alberta roads with it.