47-55.1 1952 GMC flatbed dually - questions?

[TX3100Guy]

Many of you have seen that I'm 98% done with the resto-mod of my 1953 5-window Chevy 3100. While I am still chasing a few issues with the truck, I've taken it to three car shows in the area and won each time. First was a People Choice award, next was the Memorial Day weekend WWII Veterans choice, and last the Best Truck this past weekend.

But working out in the shop is my therapy and I've already been out searching for a next "project". I have been unable to find any Chevy or GMC COE's that aren't either 1) dramatically over priced, or 2) rusty hulks that show no signs of life........at least for my skill level.

However, I have found an interesting project possibility, but I need the collective wisdom and knowledge of this group to help me understand more about this truck. Here is what I know:

It is a 1952 GMC flatbed and is a dually. The serial number plate on the A pillar reads "152 22C 4562". With horsepower of 95 and a GVW of 5800 lbs.

Is this a model 150? If so, is it - 3/4 ton?

It has a V8 350 in it along with a 400 turbo automatic transmission. It was unable to start (dead battery) but even with jumper cables, we couldn't get it to turn over. Both rear cab corners are in need of replacement and both he bed and the 4x6 lumber on the frame rails supporting the flatbed are in need of replacement.

Any thoughts or guidance will be appreciated.

[leegreen]

pictures, we want pictures!

verbalize your goals for the project too

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by leegreen

pictures, we want pictures!

verbalize your goals for the project too

Here is a link to a photo library of several that are too big to post here.

1952 GMC Flatbed Dually


I'm thinking Rat Rod with airbags to lower it, but I may change my mind.

[leegreen]

That is a nice looking one. FB ad 1919618952186945 $13k USD maybe a OK depending what has been done that does not show up in pictures

Might be too nice, black goo sprayed all over frame, red overspray on top and a recent paint job. Quick and dirty job to make it look good advertising someone's business? What is underneath? I'd get up close with the body mounts as bed and cab are not square. Get to kick panels for a close look and look at lower cowl from underneath and from inside fenders.

Tilt column and PS, does this have a front clip and decent brakes already?
What is brake master setup under there?
Also looks like the rear axle has been changed?
Heater is not hooked up, probably still a low pressure core that can't run SBC coolant pressures.

If this has a solid cab and already has updated suspension, brakes and axle, a guy could fix the wiring and deck and drive as is, it looks nice enough. Then the price may not be bad.
If it is still 1952 running gear behind a v8 automatic it could be useful for local runs, but not up to scratch for modern highways, Price is not so hot
It is needs more rust repairs than those corners and it needs the running gear done still, at this price leave it for the next guy.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by leegreen

That is a nice looking one. FB ad 1919618952186945 $13k USD maybe a OK depending what has been done that does not show up in pictures

Might be too nice, black goo sprayed all over frame, red overspray on top and a recent paint job. Quick and dirty job to make it look good advertising someone's business? What is underneath? I'd get up close with the body mounts as bed and cab are not square. Get to kick panels for a close look and look at lower cowl from underneath and from inside fenders.

Tilt column and PS, does this have a front clip and decent brakes already?
What is brake master setup under there?
Also looks like the rear axle has been changed?
Heater is not hooked up, probably still a low pressure core that can't run SBC coolant pressures.

If this has a solid cab and already has updated suspension, brakes and axle, a guy could fix the wiring and deck and drive as is, it looks nice enough. Then the price may not be bad.
If it is still 1952 running gear behind a v8 automatic it could be useful for local runs, but not up to scratch for modern highways, Price is not so hot
It is needs more rust repairs than those corners and it needs the running gear done still, at this price leave it for the next guy.

The pictures on FB are not as they seem in real life. The rig needs to be re-wired, tires are past their "sell by date", the rear axle looks original, I need to re-check front clip, but has power steering (supposedly) frame has surface rust, bed wood is a total mess, brakes are original drum.

We are negotiating price, its a good bit below his FB number, tomorrow I bring a refrigerator magnet to check for bondo elsewhere, cab corners are all that are visible now. Also need to check front axle and "power steering"

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by leegreen

I'd get up close with the body mounts as bed and cab are not square. Get to kick panels for a close look and look at lower cowl from underneath and from inside fenders.

.

How can you tell that from these photos?

[leegreen]

Stock rear axle, this probably tops out of 45 MPH, stock brakes you probably don't want to go faster

Many years ago I tested the small magnet idea on a car I knew had lots of bondo as I put it there. The magnet was useless. YMMV
They sell paint thickness detectors now pretty cheap, simple magnet on spring deals and more complex eddy current meters. I don't know if these work.

I'd be more excited by this one if the paint was 30 years old and that was all the rust showing. Look inside rear cab corners for a seam to see if they have been replaced before, if they are original maybe the truck is pretty rust free. If they have been done I'd go on a bondo hunt, check the edges of panels for thickness, bottoms of doors, look behind things for unrepaired rust. Figure out why the cab and bed are not level with each other.

The handheld inspection cameras off Amazon are pretty decent now. I got one of these for my son recently :https://www.amazon.ca/DEPSTECH-Indus...dp/B0928Q3T42/ Way better than the USB snake cams attached to your cell phone.

Most valuable tool for a project inspection is a car guy friend that has not already fallen for the new project.

[leegreen]

Originally Posted by TX3100Guy

How can you tell that from these photos?

top of bed vs body line

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by leegreen

Stock rear axle, this probably tops out of 45 MPH, stock brakes you probably don't want to go faster

Many years ago I tested the small magnet idea on a car I knew had lots of bondo as I put it there. The magnet was useless. YMMV
They sell paint thickness detectors now pretty cheap, simple magnet on spring deals and more complex eddy current meters. I don't know if these work.

I'd be more excited by this one if the paint was 30 years old and that was all the rust showing. Look inside rear cab corners for a seam to see if they have been replaced before, if they are original maybe the truck is pretty rust free. If they have been done I'd go on a bondo hunt, check the edges of panels for thickness, bottoms of doors, look behind things for unrepaired rust. Figure out why the cab and bed are not level with each other.

The handheld inspection cameras off Amazon are pretty decent now. I got one of these for my son recently :https://www.amazon.ca/DEPSTECH-Indus...dp/B0928Q3T42/ Way better than the USB snake cams attached to your cell phone.

Most valuable tool for a project inspection is a car guy friend that has not already fallen for the new project.

Good call on the paint thickness tool. I have one and forgot all about it. I'll take it with me tomorrow too. I also have an inspection camera that connects to my cell phone via bluetooth, I'll bring it too.

I highly suspect that the metal bed frame is not original, which is fine by me. The wood that is on top of the frame is cracked and showing signs of age, could be replacement, could be original - did they use wood back then to raise the bed up off the frame?

As for the paint, it looks much better in the photos than it does up close. I would not be too concerned with cutting out the cab corners and welding in replacements and scuffing up the rest of the paint. I have no deep seated desire for another looker, I want a decent project. I'm more concerned with the front axle and the rear axle. I hope there is a front clip that has been replaced for the power steering. I will crawl under for the rear axle and try to find a serial number or something.

[leegreen]

Originally Posted by TX3100Guy

did they use wood back then to raise the bed up off the frame?

yes, for flatbeds wood stringers laid on the frame rails was and still is common

those cross pieces look a little light duty though, just appear to be sheet metal

[TX3100Guy]

So I've figured out that it is a 3/4 ton dually. The question is what would the original rear axle have been? Meaning what should I be looking for tomorrow to determine if its original and/or what the gear ratio is?

[leegreen]

1/2 and 3/4 tons were all closed driveline, so if it has a turbo 400 in it like the ad says it must have a newer rear end.
unless the dually axle from back in '52 was open driveline?

[dsraven]

if original rear axle you would wanna swap it for something newer for highway speeds. then that brings up the whole brake issue because the newer axle likely won't match up with the front axle brakes well. you would wanna do a dual circuit master cylinder anyway no matter what. finding brake parts for original axles may be challengine, may wanna call a parts store and see what they have to say. if its rusty uner there take a look at brake lines etc cuz they may need to be replaed along with the rubber flex hoses.
would you be looking to keep it a dually? town truck or highway runs? what would you be looking to upgrade?
if engine doesn'y crank with the starter at least try turning the front pully to ensure it isn't siezed.pull the dipstick and check to see what the oil looks like. when was it last driven on the road? does it have a title you can check on for legality at DMV? local authorities may need to know/visually check if the vin is correct and some old stuff used the engine serial as the truck vin. if engine was changed then what? if they get a whiff of things that were changed for speed/power then that can change how they look at it overall.
if there is power steering look to see what it has for components. some would have used a ps box that mounts like the original, some had front clip swaps, some did some weird stuff to make it work, maybe not the safest, lol.
check to see what is used for engine mounts, steering column shaft, exhaust manifolds, driveline components, trans cross member, front suspension, cab mounts,etc do a quick dimension check to see if the frame is paraleel to the flat bed. if it is then something may be worn/rusted out in the cab mount area
take lots of pics and post them up

[mr48chev]

This is the only site that has any actual older GMC info that I know of. https://www.oldgmctrucks.com/index.html

150-22 C4562 shows up as a 52 3/4 ton. GMC production numbers ran consecutive in those years. Dang good thing I looked a second time as I almost had to do a forehead smack on that one.

[TX3100Guy]

Wow guys, that is a lot to think about. I have to admit that after sleeping on it and then reading these areas of concern that my fever to get my next project, specifically this truck, is fading. I may go look at it, but after it rained overnight, the idea of rolling on the ground under it has little appeal.

[dsraven]

I like to take a piece of rug or cardboard to slide under vehicles when doing a service call or checking out something new. even if it's in a paved parking lot. little pieces of gravel can be unforgiving, lol.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I like to take a piece of rug or cardboard to slide under vehicles when doing a service call or checking out something new. even if it's in a paved parking lot. little pieces of gravel can be unforgiving, lol.

Good Idea especially in Texas where you may find the truck sitting on a patch of goat heads.

Since it sounds like they converted the 3/4 ton to dual rear wheels I'd be looking closely at the frame to make sure it isn't cracked or damaged due to hauling too much weight too often. When guys did swaps like that it was to haul heavier loads than the chassis was designed for most of the time.

[TX3100Guy]

I've pretty much decided to walk away from this truck. It has too many gotcha's and unknowns. It sat for three years in a parking lot in front of the barber shop as a brightly colored advertisement, until the landlord told them to get rid of it.

It was purchased off of eBay three years ago (supposedly) and not really treated as a driver.

[mr48chev]

From what description you gave originally it may be best as an S-10 swap candidate, parts sale and scrap iron haul. Still to do that the price has to be right and it has to be something a person was planning from the get go.