...ok, I need a new Ignition Switch...

[BRL]

Went to start the truck in the Safeway parking lot yesterday...nothing.
Not even a selinoid click.
Crawled all over and under the dang thing.

Ever try to locate and jump the selinoid terminals from under your truck with long tube headers?

I did manage to ark weld a screwdriver shank to one of the primary header tubes.

The switch has been there for so long (30+years) that the key is a worn out toothpick.

Even has blue overspray from when someone painted the interior and the wires are mickey moused together with those twist-on household connectors.

After a long stressful struggle it turns out the positive battery terminal was loose.
Still need a replacement switch but I got the truck home...this time.who makes a good switch?

[A1971Blazer]

GMC Paul's sells quality stuff.
They are a supporting member and vendor on here as well.

[TuckersTech]

Although these switches are made overseas, we sell a bunch of them and I don't recall any complaints. https://tuckersparts.com/products/ig...-switch-c-7409

Jared

[1970cstblazer]

Search Ebay for NOS Delco. Even being 55 years old, they are far better than anything sold today, as long as it was properly stored.

[franken]

The switch and lock cylinder are as close as the corner parts store. They are two different parts.
You can't predict the quality of the parts regardless of who you buy them from, although I'd trust napa more than others.

[RustyPile]

A new switch doesn't come with a lock cylinder.. If the key is worn out, probably the lock cylinder is also.. Replace both.

[Stocker]

No idea if he still has any, but a few years ago I got a NOS lock cylinder from board member a1vintage69.

If interested, you might find him here: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...play.php?f=199

[BRL]

Wow that's a lot of options, good to know.
Thanks you guys.

That was a strange occurrence, the positive terminal was just tight enough to where I could hear my snazzy electric fuel pump operating but as soon as I put some serious demand on the battery...nothing.

Oh and when I got home and glanced at my volt meter and it looks like my recently replaced alternator isn't charging anymore.

Could be from shorting out the battery or something or just another loose connection.

Well I got the truck home so I'm happy.

[BRL]

I do have a spare alternator charging a couple of car batteries for a 12V backup electric system in the cabin so I'm all set.

Not tinkering around on the truck today though, probably just watch HDTV.

I do love retirement!

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by BRL

Wow that's a lot of options, good to know.
Thanks you guys.

That was a strange occurrence, the positive terminal was just tight enough to where I could hear my snazzy electric fuel pump operating but as soon as I put some serious demand on the battery...nothing.

Oh and when I got home and glanced at my volt meter and it looks like my recently replaced alternator isn't charging anymore.

Could be from shorting out the battery or something or just another loose connection.

Well I got the truck home so I'm happy.

You could have blown a diode and will probably have to take the alternator apart and test the diodes or have it tested. The external regulator alternators are a bit more of a challenge than the internal regulator ones as far as testing when apart. At least they are to me and I taught kids how to test them.

[mr48chev]

Searching through your other threads still gives me nothing to figure out the exact year or model of your truck but this switch from Napa fits 67/72 71 GMC 2500 being my truck that I pulled up for the search but the what it fits list is long https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHKS6603

They show 3 lock cylinders that I haven't sorted out yet https://www.napaonline.com/en/shop/r...arts/348251743

They also show a switch and lock cylinder combo that makes things a tad easier .

[Steeveedee]

I bet you popped a diode with that short. It doesn't always happen, though. As for ignition switches, '67 does not have an Accessory position.

[BRL]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Searching through your other threads still gives me nothing to figure out the exact year or model of your truck...

1969.

The alternator is a lifetime guarantee replacement from NAPA, probably won't mention my recent adventure and I'll see about a switch and key setup while I'm there.

ETA: I did install an internally regulated alternator, dang thing was working.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Searching through your other threads still gives me nothing to figure out the exact year or model of your truck but this switch from Napa fits 67/72 71 GMC 2500 being my truck that I pulled up for the search but the what it fits list is long https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHKS6603

They show 3 lock cylinders that I haven't sorted out yet https://www.napaonline.com/en/shop/r...arts/348251743

They also show a switch and lock cylinder combo that makes things a tad easier .

Any of the 3 lock cylinders they show will fit the '67 - '72 ignition switches....
.

['68OrangeSunshine]

To eradicate any future gremlins, I would replace the PO's hacked Underdash Wiring Harness with a fresh one from M & H Electric. They are made-new in America, and the electrician/builder signs his name to a tag on the harness. OEM style Packard connectors, correct lengths, true vintage GM color codes and gauges on the wires, and any little plastic parts that snap into places on the body to hold the wiring in place are included.
But you get what you pay for -- they are not cheap.

I share your header pain. I got 16 years before my Starter and Solenoid gave out.

[BRL]

OK, I'm officially lost.

I put the alternator from the cabin in the truck, the plug was a little too wide so I made some little jumpers just to plug it in.

Started the engine and it's still not charging.
So I added a little light to provide some resistance on the white wire and it's not lighting up like it should.
The bulb is good because I jumped it across the battery terminals and it lit.
What now?
Don't they make a one wire alternator that doesn't need any help to start charging or something?

Yea I know it looks goofy but it was just for testing and the light should be lighting up I thought.

ETA: That's looking good right about now.
https://a.co/d/iYrAM07

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by BRL

OK, I'm officially lost.

I put the alternator from the cabin in the truck, the plug was a little too wide so I made some little jumpers just to plug it in.

Started the engine and it's still not charging.
So I added a little light to provide some resistance on the white wire and it's not lighting up like it should.
The bulb is good because I jumped it across the battery terminals and it lit.
What now?
Don't they make a one wire alternator that doesn't need any help to start charging or something?

Yea I know it looks goofy but it was just for testing and the light should be lighting up I thought.

ETA: That's looking good right about now.
https://a.co/d/iYrAM07

I think some of them have to reach a certain RPM before they start charging. I don't remember which ones though....
.

[BRL]

Yea I've heard that too and I'll be happy to give the throttle a little blip if it will get to charging the battery again.

I've reached the end of my patience level with this alternator stuff already.

[LockDoc]

-
You might try reading through this thread and see if there is anything in there that might help....

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=507565
.

[Cooter!]

There's numbers cast into the case on the back of the alt, at that 2 spade terminal:

You want an ignition source (that is anything but NOT on the same circuit as the coil) to terminal 1. If you're converting from an externally regulated alt, put a diode (band towards the alt), a resistor, or an incandescent light in-line. It needs to draw power off that circuit once the ignition source power is removed.

Battery (+) on terminal 2. Jumped from the output lug on the back is ok.

Ignition on, the light should light (showing ign power to it and ground from the alt side), running, the light should go out because you have ignition power to one side and the alt is powering the other side (+), no electrons flowing=no light.
Rev to 2500 and you should have 13.5-14.7VDC checked at the alt output lug.

[BRL]

Maybe I shorted out an idiot light bulb when I shorted out the starter trying to jump the selinoid and thus eliminated the resistance to excite the field or maybe the alternator wasn't charging beforehand, but I got tired of trying to figure out the cause and decided to just throw parts at it instead.

As long as it works in the end I'm satisfied.

I still want a new Ignition switch and key lock too.

[BRL]

Friend just asked me why I didn't just go with a one wire alternator in the first place.
Well 30+ years ago I didn't know they existed and I thought I was going to a better mousetrap with a internally regulated set-up.

Heck I didn't start out knowledgeable about these trucks just because I bought one, I'm still learning about these trucks constantly.

Had a good day anyway though because I hooked up a 4 gallon water heater for my recently installed shower stall.
Wasn't that long ago I didn't even have my water meter hooked up and years of sponge baths finally got old.

Moving up in the world fellas!

[BRL]

By golly it works!

Thanks for all the help you guys, ran short on 10 guage wire but I had enough to complete the job for now and I'll get more to clean up the installation better soon.

YAHOO!

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by BRL

By golly it works!

Thanks for all the help you guys, ran short on 10 guage wire but I had enough to complete the job for now and I'll get more to clean up the installation better soon.

YAHOO!

Good deal! I knew you could do it....

[BRL]

It's getting harder as I age LockDoc but with inspiration and encouragement from nice folks like you I'll be tinkering around with this truck well past 100.

And yes a replacement battery ground cable is due Wednesday.