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#251 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 338
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
I hung a bunch of plastic, cleaned the cab and front of the bed, and sprayed some primer tonight. It went pretty well, except I think I must have not cleaned my spray gun so well the last time I used it. The tip didn't close well and so I ended up with some drips. Oh well, it's just primer and any super noticeable ones can be sanded down. I will also be sure to thoroughly clean my gun before I spray the paint. Here are a couple of pictures of the cab with the primer. Hopefully I will be able to get some color on it by the weekend. Unfortunately, I'm spraying the front of the bed outside and it got dark before I could get pictures. Maybe I'll grab one before work tomorrow.
I've also included a picture of the shop with everything covered in plastic. My wife and friends have dubbed it the murder room. I can only imagine what it will look like with red overspray.
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#252 |
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Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Tucson, AZ USA
Posts: 8,115
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Redrum
Redrum...
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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#253 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 338
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Haha, I may have to teach my 7 year old to reenact that. On the other hand, maybe not. Seems like something he would latch onto and I would never hear the end of it!
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#254 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 338
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
I scuffed the primer over lunch today and sprayed some paint after work. I have to say that it turned out pretty well for the first vehicle that I've tried to paint. It is Summit brand acrylic urethane single stage in flat red oxide. I think it works for the look I'm going for, we'll see how it holds up. Only a couple of pictures tonight, I'll get more when I pull the masking off tomorrow.
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#255 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 338
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Today I took the masking off and cleaned up the shop. I have to say that I'm really happy with the look of the flat red oxide with the gloss Navajo White roof. I think because of how hot it was and my inexperience, the red went on really dry, so it's kind of rough, but it should be fine for the back of the cab. I'll have to remember that when I get to the rest of the truck.
With this, the cab is done and ready to go back on the frame. Hopefully that will happen next week. Here are some pictures of the finished product. There is a difference between the last 2 pictures. It's subtle, but fits with the 60's and 70's style of the truck and really finishes the look.
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#256 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 338
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Really big day today. I went out this afternoon and pushed the frame into the shop. Then a buddy of mine came over and helped me put the cab back on the frame. Once I figured out how the cab mounts went from a diagram on lmc truck, it went fairly smoothly. The only real hiccup was that the kit came with all of the hardware, but the washers for the front mounts had the bolt holes too small in them. Luckily I was able to drill them out in my drill press. I was surprised that all of the washers were the correct size for the smaller rear bolts, but too small for the larger front. All of the hardware was included in the mounting kit. Oh well, it all worked out and since I had help, we mounted the doors too.
Only one picture for the night because the pieces are coming together enough that I can't get pictures of everything in my shop space anymore. I'm really excited because the truck hasn't been in this state since March of 2021! Next up is making all of the mechanical connections to the cab and then installing the front clip.
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#257 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 338
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Didn't have much time today, so I didn't do anything picture worthy. I reconnected most of the stuff to the cab: oil pressure line, choke, throttle, speedo cable, electrical, and brake master cylinder. I did not put the steering column in because I need to get a new rag joint and I'm thinking about painting the column since it is out. I also didn't reconnect the clutch linkage because I ordered a new through the cab boot. After all that, I dug the rest of the parts out of the tote they were in and organized them on the shop bench.
I still need to paint my inner fenders. I know I could just go black, but I'm thinking about going with the Navajo White on the engine bay side of them, primarily because I have a case of that paint color, and it certainly would be different. Am I crazy?
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#258 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 338
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
I had a busy day in the shop today with several pictures, so I will likely have to make a couple of posts.
First up, I found this little metal thing in the gravel in front of my shop where I washed the truck before I started re-assembly (pictures below). I looked at it and thought it looked really familiar, so I decided I better keep it. Turns out I am very familiar with it, it is the thing that goes on the end of the clutch rod to push the clutch fork. I reconnected the clutch linkage after installing the new grommet, and the pedal didn't do anything. It felt like the hydraulic clutch in the old Mazda pickup I learned how to drive in. I knew that wasn't right, so I started looking, and sure enough, this thing fell off, and the rod was pushing right through the fork. I'm really lucky that it happened to fall off in front of my shop rather than somewhere in the yard, and that I stumbled across it. Next, I put the front clip on the truck. It went on really well, and now I just need to have my friend come over and help with the hood. Also, last night I reinstalled my steering column. Nothing crazy there, but I did put a new rag joint on since I was doing it. I also painted the column Navajo White. This may have been a mistake, don't paint things white that you are installing in environments where your hands get dirty. Oh well, it will clean up and looks good.
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#259 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 338
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
I also deleted the marker lights from my truck bed. I'm specifically drawn to the 67's, and one of the styling points of them is no marker lights. My front fenders don't have them, so the back ones had to go. I removed the paint around the openings, measured, and cut patch panels out of the low hump part that I cut out of my new floor. Then I welded them in and ground the welds smooth. Now they just need a little body filler, and they should be ready to go. Note that you can see some dents in the bed around where the marker used to be. I'm not going to do anything about them. The whole bed is pretty dinged up. It doesn't have any rust, but it has definitely been used, first as a truck, then as a trailer, now as a truck again.
I also found a rust hole covered with body filler in the lower corner of my passenger's door. Since the welder was out, I cut that out and welded a patch in there as well, but didn't get any pictures of that one. All in all, it was a great day. I'm hoping to get the body filler on the truck in the next couple of days. Then I need to sand and get ready for primer. I'm really hoping to get this thing painted before it gets too cold.
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#260 | |
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Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Tucson, AZ USA
Posts: 8,115
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Quote:
The OEM one on my '68 C/10 Stepside broke in 2 pieces on the freeway at rush hour. I limped off the freeway and got to a Circle K store. It was a hot summer day in Tucson -- late afternoon -- people coming back from work. I called my Roadside Rescue and they said I had about an hour wait. So I went in the store bought a couple bottles of ice water and an icecream bar, and set back in the shade waiting for the Hook. After about a half hour, my truck had cooled down. I pulled on an old nylon flight jacket, already greasey, and slithered under the engine to look it over. I found one half of the alleged ''Nut'' stuck to the sludge build-up on the crossmember aft. Looking at the bare end of the clutch fork, I saw I could get home, if I turned the stop nuts on the lower clutch rod to meet the fork directly. Several turns, and several slugs of cold water later, and I could swing the clutch again. Great feeling to call the Roadside Rescue girl operator and cancel the Hook, and drive home under my own power. The original had been in continuous operation for around 400.000 miles. I bought a replacement ''Nut'' and restored it later. Part was less than $5.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 10-11-2025 at 09:34 PM. |
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#261 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 338
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Quote:
I do enjoy working on these old trucks, they're by and large pretty simple. That's also why I like working on old tractors. But in case of an old tractor, they're designed to be fixed by someone on a farm that may be a long way from help.
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#262 |
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The Older Generation
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Location: Montezuma, Iowa
Posts: 26,743
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
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There is supposed to be a spring from the end of the clutch arm to the frame to hold the clutch rod pieces together. You can see it in this picture....
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Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 - |
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#263 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 338
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Thank you for the info! I will have to source one of those. It will probably reduce some of the rattle too.
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#264 |
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Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Tucson, AZ USA
Posts: 8,115
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
My Clutch Return Spring was OK. I just left it out of my story.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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#265 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 338
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Had another productive day today. First up, I sourced a new clutch fork return spring. It's a Dorman universal that you cut and bend the tail to whatever length you need. It was less than $5 on Amazon.
Next up, I spread a bunch of body filler on the patches that I welded into the fenders, door, grill, and bed. While the body filler was curing, I decided to install my rear window. I have done this on this truck before, but it has been so long that I don't remember how I did it other than I did not use the rope method. I tried to do this last week with a pick, but the new seal is a little oversized and did not want to stay on the glass, so I got frustrated and stepped away before I accidentally broke the glass. This time, I decided to try the rope, I've never done this before. So I taped the seal to the glass, and threaded some rope into the seal starting and ending in the middle of the bottom of the glass. I started installing the glass. My wife wandered out to see what I was doing right when I was trying to figure out how I was going to navigate the bottom corners with the rope while holding the glass in place. I put her in the bed of the truck holding pressure on the glass while I pulled the rope the rest of the way around. Then I showed her how to tap on the glass while I pulled on the inner seal lip to seat the seal on the pinch weld. She did great, especially since she's never done anything mechanical before. If she had longer arms, I would recruit her to help with the windshield! Once we got the glass in, my body filler was cured so I sanded it down. It's not perfect, but like everything else on this truck it's good enough and definitely better than it was. I was on a roll today, so I didn't get any pictures. I may go out and snap some of the finished body filler tomorrow. Next up I need to get the hood on and start sanding to get ready for primer. I'm still hopeful that the weather will cooperate enough to get the rest of the paint on her yet this fall.
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#266 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 338
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
My buddy came by tonight, so we installed my windshield and hood. The windshield went pretty well other than I made him really nervous when I was pounding on the windshield to get the seal to seat fully. The hood went on and aligned as well as I could have hoped. I have a picture of the windshield and hood installed. It looks like a truck again! Now the weather needs to hold for a couple more weeks for me to paint. I also snapped a couple of pictures of my sanded down, good enough, body filler. Pictures are two of the passenger's side fender, one of the passenger's side door, and one of the driver's side bed marker delete.
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#267 |
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The Older Generation
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Location: Montezuma, Iowa
Posts: 26,743
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
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That's some great progress. We have some rain coming through tomorrow but it is supposed to warm up again. I hope you get some of the warm weather up there...
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Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 - |
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#268 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 338
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Thanks, I'm very happy with the progress now. We've had rain today and the next couple days with the cooler temps that come along with it. But it's looking like later next week it will warm up just enough.... I better order some more paint, I really would hate to run out.
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#269 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 338
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
The work continues. Tonight, I removed the window seals to make it easier to mask. I replaced the driver's side about 10 years ago, and that one came out like it should, slid right out all in one piece. The passenger's side was not replaced then. The picture below shows how it came out. It was extremely brittle.
Then I moved on to installing my clutch fork return spring. The one I got was a universal, Dorman 29003. It came long and you bend and cut it to fit. Thanks to LockDoc for the installation picture, it would have taken me a very long time to figure out that the spring goes to the hole in the bottom of the frame rail. Installed pic below. Finally, I started sanding for paint. I got a first pass done on the grill, hood, cowl, and passenger's fender and door. Hopefully tomorrow I can do the bed, tailgate, and driver's fender and door. Then I can go over it with a second pass, mask everything, and maybe be ready to spray some primer when the weather is supposed to be barely warm enough on Friday/Saturday. Here's hoping for more warm weather next week as a fall back option!
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#270 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 338
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
More progress today. I finished sanding and masked the truck. The hope is to put up the drop cloth in the shop tomorrow, clean the truck, and spray some primer. Hopefully I won't run out, it will be close. Then I should be spraying paint either tomorrow night or Sunday. I'm getting really excited to do final assembly after almost 5 years apart!
No pictures tonight because sanding and masking really isn't interesting.
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#271 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 338
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Well, the weather held this weekend and I was able to paint my truck. I spent yesterday afternoon cleaning and masking. Then I sprayed 2 coats of primer last night. This afternoon, I went out and scuffed the primer, cleaned again, and sprayed 2 coats of red. Between the cab and the rest of the truck, I used the entire gallon, but didn't have to break into the second gallon I ordered just in case. Hopefully I can send it back.
All in all, I'm very happy with how it turned out. It is definitely not perfect, and I didn't expect it to be. There are a bunch of dents in the bed from it's time as a trailer that I didn't do anything with. I'm not going for a show truck here, just something to drive around and have it all be one color. It will do all of that very well, especially after being done by a guy who has never painted a vehicle before. I've said it before; the original inspiration for the flat rust oxide color was the bed itself. When it was a trailer, someone painted it red. Over time, the red dulled and faded, and I really liked the look. I wanted a color that would give it a similar look. I'm happy and think it will look great with the Navajo White accents I have. Now I have to wait until tomorrow to unmask and see what it really looks like. In the meantime, enjoy a couple of pictures. PS I've done so much sanding and cleaning my paint tools with acetone this weekend that my phone doesn't recognize my thumb print to unlock!
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My 67: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=784468 Last edited by Roostre; 10-26-2025 at 07:28 PM. |
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#272 |
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Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Tucson, AZ USA
Posts: 8,115
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Besides having the aerodynamic profile of a red brick at terminal speed, your truck will also match in color.
They used to paint a lot of boxcars this color, too.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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#273 | |
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The Older Generation
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Montezuma, Iowa
Posts: 26,743
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Quote:
That's the way I like them too. Looks good going down the road. No show trucks for me either.... I like it.
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Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 - |
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#274 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 338
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Quote:
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#275 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 338
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Thanks. I love looking at show trucks, but they're just too much work for me to really enjoy them. I'd be afraid to drive one after I put in all the work to get it to that point.
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