chevy 250 inline intake/exhuast bolt config

[kljfamily]

Hello,

65 c10 250
77 c10 250 engine.

On my project, my 650 250 bit the dust hard.

Found a good 250 from a 77. Using the non-inegrated head from my 250.

On the 2 piece exhaust/intake. You have 5 bolts and 1 threaded stud with 6 flanges. 4 short and 2 long. I neglected to take a pic of where the short and long went and position.

Does anyone have a pic or can let me know here the long/short flanges go.

Thanks

[straight6chevyguy]

I believe the long flanges go at the front and back of the engine one at each end and the the short ones are in the middle. bolts/studs depend on your particular set up some people change out the bolts for all studs or you might find a mix of both. Im currently at work but I can get you a couple pictures later today unless someone else on here can chime in with photos before I do.

[Short 3/4]

The four short ones go in the middle, with the two longer ones in the outside positions. Tried to take a picture but for some reason can’t make it load.

BTW , make sure the two outside (far front and rear) holes of the exhaust manifold are supported only by studs with no nuts. The manifold needs to “float” when it expands and contracts with heat. Otherwise it WILL crack (ask me how I know!)

[kljfamily]

OK, thank you.

I have the unthreaded studs matched up on the outside.

I will try the long ones on the ends.

Just have to figure out the angle they go at to get the right seat.

[Short 3/4]

OK, think I figured it out. This is a 292 and that’s the “big” C60 exhaust manifold, but everything should be the same.
Hope this helps
Tom

[kljfamily]

thanks a lot. Perfect pic!

[straight6chevyguy]

You beat me to it short 3/4! Lol

[straight6chevyguy]

If this is your first time installing one of these manifolds I would like to add a reminder to tighten each bolt a little at a time and at an alternate pattern not sure if there is a correct pattern or not but I usually just use a staggered sequence. Also I'm not sure if you have had the two manifolds separated or not, it is recommended to have the bolts that hold the two manifolds together slightly loose and then re tighten them in sequence with the main manifold to head bolts to ensure that both exhaust and intake manifold faces seat flushly on the head. The problem is getting the 3 bolts that hold the two manifolds together loose without breaking (don't know if you have already messed with that or not) there is a chance that if you pulled the manifolds in one piece and didn't separate the two manifolds that it will bolt back up just fine. Sorry to ramble on lol hate to see a good manifold get broke or you have pull the manifold again to replace the gasket after it blows out after just a few miles down the road. Lol had to do that myself.

[kljfamily]

Thanks for the bolt sequence. I did have the two apart to clean and paint. So getting them loose is easy. I’ll follow your instructions. Much appreciated. This is my first engine rebuild. Learned a lot about taking way more pictures than I did and label everything. I did pretty good but missed a few key pieces like this one.

Thanks again

[Short 3/4]

Straight Guy makes a very good point about being VERY careful putting the two pieces GRADUALLY back together once apart. Much easier than you might think to crack that exhaust manifold. Since it’s apart anyway I would go ahead and replace the three studs holding them together and the two for the down pipe. Use brass barrel nuts to put everything back together, you’ll thank yourself next time you need to take it back apart. Also a good time to make sure that heat riser thingy is working correctly, or just wedge it in the normal open position. Final thing would be to have a machine shop true up the sealing surfaces. This will eliminate both leaks and the possibility of cracking when tightening everything up.
Good luck
Tom