4x4 steering issue - won't return to center

[special-K]

Nothing new here. I'm pondering doing crossover steering.

[HO455]

Have you checked your spring hangers for wear? The hanger bushings get loose, the bolts wear and they no longer hold the axle in position. Jack the truck up and disconnect the spring from the axle and push the spring side to side. Worn hangers will allow you to move the spring an inch or more. Good hangers make it hard to push the springs. Think about the forces that the wheels put against the axles and all that must be controlled by the hangers. Don't forget to check the rear axle too. The tail can wag the dog all day long.

Old worn springs can lose temper and the eyes can get loose too. My 51 GMC 2wd with new king pins, tie rod, drag link, rebuilt steering box , wheel bearings, and it still was a white knuckle drive, until I put new spring hangers on it. Big difference. One hand highway cruiser now. The bushings seemed a bit loose in the front spring eyes so we are looking to replace the front springs this winter.
Good luck

[Benjamin]

Originally Posted by special-K

Nothing new here. I'm pondering doing crossover steering.

Hey Tim. While you're pondering, ponder this.

I have assumed for some time now that crossover steering was the be-all and end-all when it comes to the solid-axle trucks.

Then yesterday, while searching the good old forum for an answer to a different question, I stumbled across this 5-year-old thread with some interesting comments, controversial even, regarding crossover steering.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=567317

What I took away from the discussion is that if you want decent highway driving characteristics, stay with the GM-factory-style steering (push-pull) and if you have a lift, raise the steering arm. Crossover steering is good off-road, but potentially not-so-nice on the highway, and you probably don’t need it unless you are doing some really extreme wheeling.

Not sure what you are going for though. I'm putting a lot of stock in DirtyLarry's advice. I don't know him personally, but it seems like he uses his rig like I like to use mine, so I would tend to think that what he is doing would work for me.

[nonstop]

I converted my truck to cross over steering. I eventually changed it back. The steering felt vague on the roadway, and I lost my sway bar. I went back in with a dropped pitman arm, and am personally much happier. But a lot of it depends on how the truck is used.

[special-K]

Ok, so that's not a way around it. Mostly I like the high-steer feature I'd go with if I did crossover. Way back before people started doing this for off road reasons, I felt Ford had a convoluted mess of a steering system compared to GM simplicity. I have owned a lot of the GM 4wds and never felt bump steer was an issue as bad as I see people claim it is for them. I've had urethane bushings that come with lift kits go bad, allowing front end assembly to rack causing a loose steering problem. I replaced the steering box on my current truck with this issue because I found slop at the sector shaft/pitman arm. The truck has never gone straight as it should. I wish I had done everything on the front end at the same time. I have a couple other steering boxes I think I'll try

[Blazerowner]

Bringing this back up because I have a similar issue. I have torqued everything to spec on the ball joints in the order specified in many forums. I also added 3 degree shims to the leaf springs. Right now it drives pretty decent, but I have an issue with return to center. I will say I tested the knuckle spin and I’m at 10lbs to spin it. From what I’ve read it should be under 25lbs but no minimum. Is 10lbs too little? Should I aim for closer to 25lbs? Also is this with weight on the knuckle or no? I have the axle on stands with no weight on the knuckle. The steering just wants to stay whatever direction you point it. There’s a little return to center but not the best. I have to steer it back and it tends to follow the road. I’m constantly correcting it. I drive these same roads in my newer truck and none of these issues are apparent. There is about 100 miles on the new parts. The whole front end is rebuilt with everything new including the ball joints, Lee steering box, etc.

[dennislbrooks]

I had discussed similar problems on here. The forum did improve my steering on my 67 4wd with an 88 Blazer front axle. The toe is set to zero and all new suspension, I made no adjustment on the new steering box, I have little play in the steering wheel, but I still do some corrections. All are power. This is less on flat roads and worse on grooved roads - same on my 59 GMC with 85 K10 running gear, my 2015 2500hd (independent better), and my other vehicles. Wide tires on a grooved road like my 85 vette with 255/60sx16 really is in and out of grooves

I have never driven a brand new C10 4WD to see/feel how they drove, but I suspect not as good as more modern vehicles.

Correction I have driven a new 1978 K10 Chevy I purchased new. I was 28 years old and I do not remember any problems - dunno but I did drive bigger trucks and maybe anything was better..

I suspect your new truck is not a straight axle.

I can always learn more.

[Blazerowner]

My toe in is set to 3/16. I’m still wondering about the 10lbs of pull force to turn the knuckle. It’s pretty easy to turn but the upper ball joint was torqued to spec.

[Blazerowner]

Figured out the issue. I had the shims in backwards. Turned them around and all the issues went away. Returns to center like it should.