Lifting my 1967 K20

[Chaparralman1974]

Morning all!

So, I am going to move forward with lifting my 1967 K20. I opted for the Skyjacker 4" kit (leaves in the front, blocks in the rear) with the Blackmax shocks. I went with this kit due to the Softride front springs and the good reviews that I have read up on them. It is worth noting that this truck is a pavement princess and will never see any dirt at all! I opted for the blocks for the rear due to my truck being a '67 with the oddball rear leaf springs. The truck rides fine and the springs are not sagging, so I think that a block lift for the rear is the best option. The kit comes with the square Ubolts for the 69-72 trucks, but I will just get a set of "U" bolts built up by my local spring company. I am also swapping out the front axle for a "Big Hub" Dana 44 at the same time so that I can do the power steering / disc brake swap as well.

Obviously, in order to ensure that this truck doesn't look like it skipped leg day at the gym, I am going need to go with new shoes under her as well. I do like my steel wheels (16x8 Ford Accurides). I had them powder coated white and I like the look of them on a blue truck. I am considering going with a 315/75/R16 tire which is 34.6" tall and 12.4" wide. Given my wheel width, should I be worried about backspacing or anything? I definately don't want to trim anything at all but I want to ensure that that the wheel wells are filled such that the truck has a good look to her. Again, this truck is a pavement queen so I am not worried about beating anything up with extreme axle articulation.

I am also staying with the SB327 and 4 speed / T221 combo for now. I did swap out the rear end (HO52) with a 4.10 setup and the new donor front axle is also 4.10's as well. Speed isn't all that much of a concern as I rarely take this thing out on the highway. It is more for pleasure cruising around town. Should I have any concern with this tire size and my gearing? Should I look at a larger tire?


Thanks, Clay

[Southcity]

Let me begin by saying what a nice truck, I'm a big fan of your white steelies too. Do you have a local tire shop that is willing to work with you where you can mount a single tire in the new size and then check fit, look etc. so that it is to your approval? I was able to do this when I set up my 66 K10 with a wheel/tire combo in a similar fashion and it really helped out.

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by Southcity

Let me begin by saying what a nice truck, I'm a big fan of your white steelies too. Do you have a local tire shop that is willing to work with you where you can mount a single tire in the new size and then check fit, look etc. so that it is to your approval? I was able to do this when I set up my 66 K10 with a wheel/tire combo in a similar fashion and it really helped out.

Thank you very much! :-)

That is a good idea....I do have a few tire shops around and will ask and see if they can do that. I am hoping that I can get a 35" tire under it somehow....I have read through the forums and the consensus is not very clear.....some say it won't rub and other say it will.


Clay

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by Chaparralman1974

Morning all!

So, I am going to move forward with lifting my 1967 K20. I opted for the Skyjacker 4" kit (leaves in the front, blocks in the rear) with the Blackmax shocks. I went with this kit due to the Softride front springs and the good reviews that I have read up on them. It is worth noting that this truck is a pavement princess and will never see any dirt at all! I opted for the blocks for the rear due to my truck being a '67 with the oddball rear leaf springs. The truck rides fine and the springs are not sagging, so I think that a block lift for the rear is the best option. The kit comes with the square Ubolts for the 69-72 trucks, but I will just get a set of "U" bolts built up by my local spring company. I am also swapping out the front axle for a "Big Hub" Dana 44 at the same time so that I can do the power steering / disc brake swap as well.

Obviously, in order to ensure that this truck doesn't look like it skipped leg day at the gym, I am going need to go with new shoes under her as well. I do like my steel wheels (16x8 Ford Accurides). I had them powder coated white and I like the look of them on a blue truck. I am considering going with a 315/75/R16 tire which is 34.6" tall and 12.4" wide. Given my wheel width, should I be worried about backspacing or anything? I definately don't want to trim anything at all but I want to ensure that that the wheel wells are filled such that the truck has a good look to her. Again, this truck is a pavement queen so I am not worried about beating anything up with extreme axle articulation.

I am also staying with the SB327 and 4 speed / T221 combo for now. I did swap out the rear end (HO52) with a 4.10 setup and the new donor front axle is also 4.10's as well. Speed isn't all that much of a concern as I rarely take this thing out on the highway. It is more for pleasure cruising around town. Should I have any concern with this tire size and my gearing? Should I look at a larger tire?


Thanks, Clay

How's it going?
I don't think you can go taller than 35s without cutting the fenders or going to 6". you'll rub on turns with bumps, like going into a parking lot. I'm running the 35" BFG ATs. Once you run some tread off and air down a livable air pressure, you'll be more like 33" If you're careful how you turn you can probably squeeze a 36.5" but you will get an occasional rub for sure.

Regarding the lift. Start thinking about grab handles, here's why. You're pretty tall, so you can probably step into a 4" lift with 35s. But I bet you'll find yourself using the steering wheel to yank yourself up. More impotently the wife. She's going to need something to grab onto to get in and out, especially if the bottom of her shoes are wet. It's an issue, my wife can be a bit of a klutz! Plus it seems the purse and what ever else she packing along are more important than getting her own body safely in there. Grab handles are annoying but they are a safety concern for your shorter or less agile passengers! Run the truck onto some blocks so cab is about the same height as lifted... ask wife to get in and out. Don't make her hate the truck. Mine likes to ride in the truck. She's a good sport when I yell "Don't slam the Door"!!!

Good Luck and Merry Christmas!

jeff

[jeffahart]

Here you go. 28" I just measured. That's how high you need to lift your foot to step up into the cab: 4" lift with 35s

j

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

How's it going?
I don't think you can go taller than 35s without cutting the fenders or going to 6". you'll rub on turns with bumps, like going into a parking lot. I'm running the 35" BFG ATs. Once you run some tread off and air down a livable air pressure, you'll be more like 33" If you're careful how you turn you can probably squeeze a 36.5" but you will get an occasional rub for sure.

Regarding the lift. Start thinking about grab handles, here's why. You're pretty tall, so you can probably step into a 4" lift with 35s. But I bet you'll find yourself using the steering wheel to yank yourself up. More impotently the wife. She's going to need something to grab onto to get in and out, especially if the bottom of her shoes are wet. It's an issue, my wife can be a bit of a klutz! Plus it seems the purse and what ever else she packing along are more important than getting her own body safely in there. Grab handles are annoying but they are a safety concern for your shorter or less agile passengers! Run the truck onto some blocks so cab is about the same height as lifted... ask wife to get in and out. Don't make her hate the truck. Mine likes to ride in the truck. She's a good sport when I yell "Don't slam the Door"!!!

Good Luck and Merry Christmas!

jeff

Hi Jeff and Merry Christmas to you as well! :-)

I was actually talking with Kelly about the grab handles and steps this morning.....she is the one that brought it up. We are definitely going to be doing something. Can you send me a picture of your grab handles when you get a chance? After seeing your truck the other day, I really like the stance and want to mimic it with mine. What are your thoughts on running a 12.5" tire on my existing steel wheels?

Clay

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

Here you go. 28" I just measured. That's how high you need to lift your foot to step up into the cab: 4" lift with 35s

j

Is your measurement to the top of the rocker with the door open?


Clay

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by Chaparralman1974

Is your measurement to the top of the rocker with the door open?


Clay

Yes

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by Chaparralman1974

Hi Jeff and Merry Christmas to you as well! :-)

After seeing your truck the other day, I really like the stance and want to mimic it with mine. What are your thoughts on running a 12.5" tire on my existing steel wheels?

Clay

You're fine with the 8". as far as offset, you have to decide if you want the tire sticking outside the wheel well. I don't remember the offset on my rims off hand. Though I do remember making an issue of it when I bought them.

Originally Posted by Chaparralman1974

Hi Jeff and Merry Christmas to you as well! :-)

I was actually talking with Kelly about the grab handles and steps this morning.....she is the one that brought it up. We are definitely going to be doing something. Can you send me a picture of your grab handles when you get a chance?
Clay

Here's a couple threads with pics. Plus you can see some others too.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=712343
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=799866

Or I can go you one better; come over or meet me with wife. She can climb in and out and you can even drive her around in it. My wife loves being in the lifted truck!

j

[jeffahart]

and this one. I knew I had a thread of my installing the pillar handles.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=530992

[jeffahart]

Something important I forgot to tell you. With the skyjacker lift the rear end squats down. Forgot to tell you that. I have the front skyjacker softrides. I originally had the blocks in the back. I now use an ORD Shackle flip Plus a zero rate. You can use the zero rate with the block in the rear no problem. I think you'll need the zero rate for sure. Plus you can center the rear wheel in the well.

https://www.offroaddesign.com/1-zero...-1-2-wide.html

j

[Chaparralman1974]

Thank you much Jeff! That is some wonderful information. I will definitely be putting in some kind of steps and grab handles.....you've given me a ton to digest.

I had my springs rearched when I rebuilt the chassis to 1" over stock. I am hoping that will provide the proper height in the rear to get the truck level. If not, I will go with the zero rate from ORD. Thanks!

Regarding the wheels....I screwed up in my measurements. I measured edge to edge (8") when I should have been measuring from bead seat to bead seat (7") so it looks like I will be going with bigger wheels. Am I better off with 10" wheels if I do go with the 315/75/R16's?

Clay

[jeffahart]

If you're buying new rims 9"-10" the rim style you target will dictate that so focus on offset. But you can still stick with the 7" if you can get them mounted, shops don't want to do it's a pain for them plus the tire will run and wear like crap. But you could try and if you don't like how they bulge out, or look, then you can get new rims. The big issue for me was tire selection. So, I went with 17" for the tire selection. Not sure if you can get 17" steel though. Look into tire selection for 16". It could sway your decision.

Bottom line: you can run 7" but it's not recommended and you'll probably have a hard time finding a shop that will mount them. Plus you have to air them way down. Once you pick a rim 15" 16" 16.5" 17"... that dictates your tire selection. And tire selection and price is a big one for me.

j

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

If you're buying new rims 9"-10" the rim style you target will dictate that so focus on offset. But you can still stick with the 7" if you can get them mounted, shops don't want to do it's a pain for them plus the tire will run and wear like crap. But you could try and if you don't like how they bulge out, or look, then you can get new rims. The big issue for me was tire selection. So, I went with 17" for the tire selection. Not sure if you can get 17" steel though. Look into tire selection for 16". It could sway your decision.

Bottom line: you can run 7" but it's not recommended and you'll probably have a hard time finding a shop that will mount them. Plus you have to air them way down. Once you pick a rim 15" 16" 16.5" 17"... that dictates your tire selection. And tire selection and price is a big one for me.

j

Thanks Jeff! What size tire are you running right now on yours? I have been looking into 17" wheels. I don't mind moving to a different wheel....I do like the steel ones, but I am not opposed to a new aluminum wheel. I kinda like the slotted mags that I have been seeing at Summit as well. :-)


Clay

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by Chaparralman1974

Thanks Jeff! What size tire are you running right now on yours? I have been looking into 17" wheels. I don't mind moving to a different wheel....I do like the steel ones, but I am not opposed to a new aluminum wheel. I kinda like the slotted mags that I have been seeing at Summit as well. :-)


Clay

315/70R17 E rated. BFG AT KO2.

I love the slotted, wish I had slotted!

j

[57taskforce]

Here’s mine on roughly 5”.(rough country 4” springs all the way around with 1” ord zero rate in the rear and a front Dana 60 in the front)
It has 315/75/16’s on older 10” wide Mickey Thompson classic II wheels. It doesn’t rub under normal highway driving conditions, but will a little up front when off road.
The driver front inner fender was bent at the back of the fender when I bought the truck and it rubbed bad before I fixed that. It can be seen in this picture.

Slotted mags would be awesome on your truck in my opinion.

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

Here’s mine on roughly 5”.(rough country 4” springs all the way around with 1” ord zero rate in the rear and a front Dana 60 in the front)
It has 315/75/16’s on older 10” wide Mickey Thompson classic II wheels. It doesn’t rub under normal highway driving conditions, but will a little up front when off road.
The driver front inner fender was bent at the back of the fender when I bought the truck and it rubbed bad before I fixed that. It can be seen in this picture.

Slotted mags would be awesome on your truck in my opinion.

I like the stance!

I have been looking at the 17" slotted mags and at about $420 each, they may have to wait for now.

I am now leaning towards 295/75/R16's so that I can keep my existing wheels. That will give me a 33" tire on a 4" lift. I would prefer 35's, but I am now thinking that I may be better off for now with 33's.

Clay

[57taskforce]

Honestly My tires are probably closer to 33’s in these pictures, they are pretty wore out. Here’s my K10 with 4” and 33’s.

[Orange Crate]

There are lots of gear calculators on the webtubes. You can input your trans gears, final drive and tire size to see what your engine RPM might be with the different combos. Here is one I used.

https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

Honestly My tires are probably closer to 33’s in these pictures, they are pretty wore out. Here’s my K10 with 4” and 33’s.

I think that this is the stance that I like best!

After going back and forth in my head, I think that I am going to mount 295/75/R16's on my stock steel wheels and see how I like that. That gives me a 33" tall tire on a 4" lift that should fill the wheel wells enough that the truck doesn't look skinny legged. Like I said, this thing is only for pavement so it is more about how she looks vs. how she performs offroad. :-)


Clay

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by Orange Crate

There are lots of gear calculators on the webtubes. You can input your trans gears, final drive and tire size to see what your engine RPM might be with the different combos. Here is one I used.

https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear

That's a pretty handy tool! Thanks!

It looks like at 65MPH my little 327 will be turning 2700RPMs with the 33's under it. That is a ton better than right now.


Clay

[OldCreek]

I run 35 x 12.5 on old school Western wheel hurricanes, 16.5 x 8.25. I have a 4" skyjacker lift.

The front driver side will rub the front fender horn on right hand turns if there's any compression or at speed.

I am debating 1" Zero rates for the front. At some point, I'll switch to 33" instead.

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by OldCreek

I run 35 x 12.5 on old school Western wheel hurricanes, 16.5 x 8.25. I have a 4" skyjacker lift.

The front driver side will rub the front fender horn on right hand turns if there's any compression or at speed.

I am debating 1" Zero rates for the front. At some point, I'll switch to 33" instead.

I think that confirms it then.....33's are the way to go.


Thanks!
Clay