Broke my AC panel control arm

[PbFut]

I have attached two photos of my AC panel with a broken upper lever. It appears that the factory secures several points by hammering them over, rather than using nuts. There are many options available for replacement levers to address these commonly broken parts. The new levers includes a point designed to be hammered over, which may be achievable, but I am concerned about how tightly this joint can be secured to match the factory feel.
Additionally, there is a cap over the shaft that holds all three levers in place. What is the recommended procedure for repair? Should I grind off the rolled-over head and then use epoxy to reassemble the cap after replacing the broken arm? I am inclined to simply epoxy repair the broken arm without disturbing the multiple factory rolled-over attachment points.

Has anyone succeeded in repairing a broken arm to a factory feel?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by PbFut

I have attached two photos of my AC panel with a broken upper lever. It appears that the factory secures several points by hammering them over, rather than using nuts. There are many options available for replacement levers to address these commonly broken parts. The new levers includes a point designed to be hammered over, which may be achievable, but I am concerned about how tightly this joint can be secured to match the factory feel.
Additionally, there is a cap over the shaft that holds all three levers in place. What is the recommended procedure for repair? Should I grind off the rolled-over head and then use epoxy to reassemble the cap after replacing the broken arm? I am inclined to simply epoxy repair the broken arm without disturbing the multiple factory rolled-over attachment points.

Has anyone succeeded in repairing a broken arm to a factory feel?

I have repaired a couple of them by cutting a piece of metal to fit underneath and using JB Weld on it. Worked good. You just have to lube up the cables good and make sure they move freely. The hardest part is keeping everything tight together and in alignment until the JB Weld hardens....
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[PbFut]

Thank you, Doc. After posting and tinkering with it further, I noticed the “new” arm has a bit more material laterally at the break—clearly the design’s failure point. Since it’s the top lever, there’s enough room to epoxy a section of the aftermarket arm onto the old broken piece. By ensuring there’s no interference in the swing arc, I believe this is the safest path forward to net a strong enough part not to break again and retain factory action. I will also re-address the cable resistance in an attempt to reduce bind. The cable is smooth but the defrost door seems tight and likely the issue.

[1970 CST Short Wide]

Will this help. Shipping and $10

[Rust_never_sleeps]

I used a 4mm threaded rod on one and a sheet metal screw on the other, but I don't think either was a particularly good solution for this pot metal

Peening it over is actually a pretty good option for the material

[PbFut]

Originally Posted by 1970 CST Short Wide

Will this help. Shipping and $10

Thank you very much for offer. My original is otherwise in exceptional condition so I really want to retain.

Originally Posted by Rust_never_sleeps

I used a 4mm threaded rod on one and a sheet metal screw on the other, but I don't think either was a particularly good solution for this pot metal

Peening it over is actually a pretty good option for the material

I have the break, still with the rough edges to key,epoxied and curing. This afternoon I will clean up the epoxy material that squishes out the mated surfaces and lay a section of the aftermarket part on one side. With the mated surfaces roughed up, epoxy the sectioned part over and well past the break. Then let it cure for 2 days.

[1970 CST Short Wide]

[QUOTE=PbFut;9415389]Thank you very much for offer. My original is otherwise in exceptional condition so I really want to retain.

No Problem, just thought I would offer.