What did you do today not on your truck...

[LS short box]

Took the dog and cat to the vet for their annual checkup. Everything was good.

[Ironhorse]

Lost in the 60s, that Chevelle is coming along. The trunk floor replacement brings back memories during the restore on my '71 Chevelle. GOOD body work does not reside in my hands but my body guy did a great job on the car. Trunk, tail pan and rear wheel openings for the most part. Also had him do the body work on my '57 2 dr. I've done wiring, engine and trans work, and such thru the years but never acquired a decent body work knowledge.

What engine and trans are you running or has that to be decided yet? l'm running a mildly built 350, Edelbrock Performer intake and Edelbrock 1406 carb, factory buckets and console, tilt wheel with a built 700R4 trans. Not a street brawler by any way but a nice cruiser.

[Lost in the 60's]

Originally Posted by Ironhorse

Lost in the 60s, that Chevelle is coming along. The trunk floor replacement brings back memories during the restore on my '71 Chevelle. GOOD body work does not reside in my hands but my body guy did a great job on the car. Trunk, tail pan and rear wheel openings for the most part. Also had him do the body work on my '57 2 dr. I've done wiring, engine and trans work, and such thru the years but never acquired a decent body work knowledge.

What engine and trans are you running or has that to be decided yet? l'm running a mildly built 350, Edelbrock Performer intake and Edelbrock 1406 carb, factory buckets and console, tilt wheel with a built 700R4 trans. Not a street brawler by any way but a nice cruiser.

I can't do final bodywork to save my soul either, just do all the metal work.
Engine is a period correct 396/350 hp. If I ever finish it, I have an original LS5 390hp in my '66 Chevelle that will go in the '70. I've had the 454 since 1973, when I bought the '70 Chevelle it came from. It is now 496 c.i. at 550hp. M20 4 speed is from a '69 'vette. The 12 bolt is original to the car with 3.31 posi.

[Ironhorse]

Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's

I can't do final bodywork to save my soul either, just do all the metal work.
Engine is a period correct 396/350 hp. If I ever finish it, I have an original LS5 390hp in my '66 Chevelle that will go in the '70. I've had the 454 since 1973, when I bought the '70 Chevelle it came from. It is now 496 c.i. at 550hp. M20 4 speed is from a '69 'vette. The 12 bolt is original to the car with 3.31 posi.

Should make for a nice solid ride. Good luck on your project. Gotta' love those A bodies from that era.

[Lost in the 60's]

Thanks, my '66 Chevelle SS, 7 year rotisserie restoration and '67 Camaro SS/RS, after a 6 year rotisserie, ready for final high build primer and final block for paint. The only part of the Camaro behind the doors still original is the trunk lid..LOL Right quarter, tail panel and the front fenders are NOS. Left quarter and full trunk floor are AMD.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's

Thanks, my '66 Chevelle SS, 7 year rotisserie restoration and '67 Camaro SS/RS, after a 6 year rotisserie, ready for final high build primer and final block for paint. The only part of the Camaro behind the doors still original is the trunk lid..LOL Right quarter, tail panel and the front fenders are NOS. Left quarter and full trunk floor are AMD.

Is that Aztec bronze ? My 66 was Aztec bronze originally

[Lost in the 60's]

The color is a close facsimile of AB. It's PPG and they never converted the original Lacquer to 2 stage, so this is from a mid 80's Chrysler color. It's a beautiful color, but in the sun it appears to have a gold fleck instead of silver. It's about the only color in the red spectrum that I like, and is nostalgic for me.
My father bought a '66 Malibu new in Aztec with black interior. 283, 3 speed manual. I passed my driver test in that car in '68. How many people took driver tests in manual transmission cars, even back then... LOL

[mr.mud1]

just about done with the new rad i've built for my 32 Ford project.i have the overflow tube to solder on,another pressure test to be sure and then some black paint.then onto see if we can get the new hood to fit.nothing else fits so i'm not getting my hopes up??

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's

The color is a close facsimile of AB. It's PPG and they never converted the original Lacquer to 2 stage, so this is from a mid 80's Chrysler color. It's a beautiful color, but in the sun it appears to have a gold fleck instead of silver. It's about the only color in the red spectrum that I like, and is nostalgic for me.
My father bought a '66 Malibu new in Aztec with black interior. 283, 3 speed manual. I passed my driver test in that car in '68. How many people took driver tests in manual transmission cars, even back then... LOL

Wasn’t a fan of the color myself but then again I was young when I painted the car my taste have modified . I used a color from a 1994 Cadillac . My next project on it is the right rear axle seal noticed a little puddle under the car . Easy job since it’s a 9 inch

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

Wasn’t a fan of the color myself but then again I was young when I painted the car my taste have modified . I used a color from a 1994 Cadillac . My next project on it is the right rear axle seal noticed a little puddle under the car . Easy job since it’s a 9 inch

I'm a big fan of the 66, 67 chevelles and that color is different and unique. Great choice of both

[3757chevy]

I took down some of my Christmas Decorations today.

[Willowrun]

Originally Posted by mr.mud1

just about done with the new rad i've built for my 32 Ford project.i have the overflow tube to solder on,another pressure test to be sure and then some black paint.then onto see if we can get the new hood to fit.nothing else fits so i'm not getting my hopes up??

Would love to hear more about the radiator building process.

[BRL]

According to my receipts I bought brake pads for my 73 bug in November of 2020 and I decided to tinker a bit tonight.

Tried to put the pads together without this picture and now I get to take them apart again and do it the right way.

Will try not to wait another 6 years to work on it some more.

[mr.mud1]

Originally Posted by Willowrun

Would love to hear more about the radiator building process.

hi,happy to tell you whatever i can.i do all my own rads and have for a while.i have a 39 Chrysler here i was working on til i bought this 32 Ford body a year or so ago but it has one of my rads.my 72 big block Cheyenne Super has one of mine,my 67 Impala wagon had one of mine and so it goes.Rad shops seem to be drying up and disappearing.i know alot of people are using the aluminum rads.that's fine but i don't like them.i feel like as long as i can buy old fashion brass and copper cores,i'll keep doing my own.on a 32 Ford,the rad bolts to the frame and the grille shell bolts to the rad,the grille shell doesn't actually touch the car so i set out to find an original 32 rad,just to have the side rails and top and bottom tanks.i found one on ebay,bought it and had it shipped to my address at the Maine/Canada border and went to get it.what a mess.the man i bought it from put the rad in a box twice as big as the rad,no packing at all and off it went.when i went to pick it up,the box was beat to pieces and the top tank was pushed down about 2 inches and cracked.i thought about how to fix it or find another rad.i couldn't find another rad so i built a little fixture the shape of the top tank and with a small jack and a piece of hardwood,jacked the tank back into shape and soldered it up.i pressure tested the rad before i soldered on the side rails and it didn't have any leaks,now the side rails are soldered on and today i bolted the rad in place.tomorrow i'll take the front fenders off,fit the grille shell in place and then try to fit my new hood but before i paint the rad,i'm going to pressure test it one more time.building rads isn't hard,lots of soldering and fitting and fooling but it's not rocket science.please holler if there's anything else i can help with.

[LS short box]

Spent 3 hours today helping at a local body shop prepping parts for primer and paint.
Just a thought on painting a car/truck. When I retired I contacted the same body shop thru one of my former coworkers and asked if I could do the block sanding from body filler to final primer sanding. The owner said YEAH! But he made it clear his shop is not a storage garage. So I would do the body work under their direction and then take the parts home until they were ready for paint. Never did any body work in my life prior the 68 C10.
Saved a ton of labor money.

[Steeveedee]

I'll bet that painter loved you! Prep is the least fun but most important part of a good paint job. Finding people willing to sand isn't easy.

[LS short box]

Pic.
As I was sanding I'd ask the young guys in the body shop how does it look? They would laugh and say "keep sanding"!

[Steeveedee]

Your truck looks really nice! I've painted several of my vehicles over the years, and I know how much work that is.

As for what I did not on my truck, I bought some bone in rib eye and grilled it. Had some broccoli al dente to go with it. Yummay!

[Lost in the 60's]

I have worked with my friend who is a retired bodyman and I tend to remove too much filler, as I have a very strong dislike of having to "blend" poor metal work with a ton of filler. Any time he said he would need to blend filler out 8-10 inches from a repair, I insisted I/we would do more metal shaping first to reduce the area. He doesn't like doing finicky metal work .. LOL I finally got him to see my point and we did come to an understanding, but my Camaro still has way more blending filler on it than I care to think about.
As for "how does it look", it has very little to do with the eyes, it's the hands that feel imperfections that the eye can't see. I can do that fairly well now, but not good enough for paint, so he is doing all the final blocking. It looks great to me, but he wants to apply, yet another, 2-3 coats of high build for it to sit in until we can find a way to get it painted. Then he will block it again just before paint. I REALLY don't have the patience for all that.
I can do some pretty decent panel replacement work, as it is like mechanical work, in that I remove a worn out (rusted to dust) part and put a new part on. I will spend days, tweaking and re-fitting a panel to get it as near to perfect as I can and that gets to me, but not like sanding and reapplying filler and primer. Must be one of my mental "quirks" that others talk about behind my back... LOL

[raggedjim]

I took a break from body working my cab and pulled my old Super tuner (pioneer KP-500) out of my Duster.

It was losing the preamp and I found the loudness switch was failing. I wired it up so loudness is always ON ( who needs a loudness switch??? Mine was always ON anyway!) It's still apart waiting on a new belt for the cassette player that was getting a bit stretched.

I also tightened up the tuning string as the string was slipping a bit. Works great now.

This is my first stereo from my first car so I try to keep it working.

[CG]

Thats very cool. My first big car stereo purchase was a super tuner but with 8 track. Id love another, but the few Ive seen have been more than I wanted to fork out.

[Boog]

My first radio purchase was an 8 track player, used. Later I bought an FM radio tuner cartridge to insert into the 8 track player, also used. Worked better than nothing, until it was stolen. Early 70s.

[Lost in the 60's]

My first was a Craig floor mount 8 track. It had many features of how to use the tracks and I ran that thru a 5 band graphic equalizer that I bought used to a pair of co-axial 6X9 Jensen's in the package tray. I had the Craig mounted on a plate that mounted to the tunnel and locked on. When I went into work or the house at night, I unlocked the plate and took the unit in with me. I have no idea what I did with it when I went to cassette ??? I rarely see them anymore and have never seen the locking floor mounting plate since the early 70's.

How 'ya doin', Boog ?

[72c20customcamper]

Tried out the on car flaring tool I bought last week . Makes life so much easier . Doing the lines on my Jeep and I buggered up one of the inverted flare nuts . I’ve been contemplating buying one and the 50% off sale at Eastwood sealed the deal. I’ve owned the vise mounted flare tool Eastwood sells for about 2 years

[raggedjim]

I remember my dad having a Craig power play 8-track in his 69 GTO but when I was 16 cassettes were the hot item (even though now I think the 8-track had better sound quality). At one time Craig and Pioneer were the same company but split up when one guy wanted to stick with 8-track (Craig) and one guy wanted to go to cassette (Pioneer).