Trailer rim vs Automobile rim?

[cj847]

I have been struggling with this for a while. I understand that trailer tires are different from vehicle tires (vertical loading, sidewall flex, etc), that all makes sense. However, I can't find information on the difference between a trailer rim and a car rim. The only thing I've found is that trailer wheels generally have zero offset (just like our trucks). Also, they have giant center hole, so I assume they are lug centric.

Does anyone actually know the difference and good engineering reason not to run them on our trucks? I get they are "engineered" for vertical loads vs side loads, but unless there is a difference in metal alloy or weld quality, I'm having a hard time understanding what is different. My guess is they are manufactured side by side with car rims in whatever factory is making them.

PS> Based on the history of nascar (the main failure was wheel rims) any rim made before about 1960 should be outlawed. I am almost certain a new trailer rim is safer than any 1948 chevy rim.

Rant off

[dagnabbitt]

It's an interesting question, and that's a good point about pre-60 rims. Sounds like you don't intend to go canyon carving or anything...?

I think I would go for it, particularly if it is a good brand of trailer rim. I'd feel much better if it was hub centric, too, though.

Someone will disagree, so let's hear it, I am curious as to why it is a bad idea.

[c30]

I don't think that the trailer wheels are special.
They are used because they are plain ole cheap to make wheels.
Car rims with good trailer tires are fine.
For trailering, always, always check tire inflation before you leave.
And bring a spare or two.
You don't want to be that guy, on the side of the road, watching the world go by.

['68OrangeSunshine]

I have been running trailer rims on my '68 C/10 Stepside since the year 2000. I have 235-85-R16 Cooper tires on white spoke rims. They didn't tell me then, and that shop has since closed. We were trying to get the same stance and profile I got with Factory 6-lug 17.5x5.25 rims and 8RX17.5LT tires. 17.5 had gone obsolete.
Wasn't till I got T-Boned in April 2022 -- dead center on my passenger side rear tire -- that I had the tire off and read the ''Trailer Use Only'' sticker inside.
I figured that if they were good for 22 years, without radical abuse, they'll be good another 22.
I got the hit rim re-trued when I couldn't find a matching truck rim. Then, on finding out it was a trailer item, I searched for that, and --at the same store I bought them at in 2000 -- I found the identical #5 of the set, somewhat dusty, but there waiting for me. So the bent-and-trued rim will be the spare.

[G-749]

Asking for a friend.
Would this also apply for 8 lug rims? I know where a n equipment trailer that got rear ended with 10 ply 16 inch trailer tires is sitting .

[cj847]

Orange sunshine, that is exactly my Delima. I want to run a "skinny" mud tire and the only choices are 16". Also want the old school white spoke or the white conventional "poverty" look.

Well e trailer is selling these as a restoration part, so I guess it's OK. They are made in USA and DOT.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Tir...r/AM20758.html

Modernize Your Classic Ride: Run Radials on Your Vintage Truck
For those refurbishing classic trucks, finding the right wheel that allows the transition to modern tires can feel like searching for a needle in a haystack. The Dexstar Conventional Steel Wheel - 16" x 6" Rim - perfectly bridges the gap, enabling you to fit contemporary radial tires seamlessly. They maintain a stylish, period-correct appearance without requiring you to compromise with overly wide wheels, enhancing both the look and functionality of your vintage vehicle.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Just don't tell Tire Shop Guys what you're doing. They will pull up all kinds of mostly balderdash propaganda out of their computer about why you can't, just so they can sell you new stuff.

I got 4 aluminum Rims from a buddy who bought a '99 GMC Suburban. 8 X 16 but he thought they were too ''Blingey.'' [Or Flashy.] He was going to recycle them for the aluminum, but I made him an offer. He's a great guy, so he just gave them to me.
I wanted to put them on my '71 GMC Jimmy K/1500. I had to get 2'' aluminum spacers to justify the offset. When gas topped $5 a gallon, I bought 4 Cooper 235/75R16LT tires and got them mounted.
Tires and adapters ran fine for half a year, until I heard weird noises from the front end. [It was the Carden double univeral joint in my front prop shaft destroying itself, but I only found that out later.] So I pulled the new tires and adapters and went back to the old 33x12.50x15LT tires and rims that were on previously.
Then I bought a 2003 Tahoe C/1500. The PO had not aligned the front wheels properly, so one of the front tires was worn down on the edge to about 60%. Tire shop wanted to sell me a new $250 tire. When I wanted to mount the almost new tires and Bling rims I'd taken off the Jimmy and put them on a C/1500 '03 Tahoe, they refused, citing some obscure safety reason. '99 K/1500 GMC to an '03 Tahoe is not much of a stretch.
I got the Tahoe a front alignment from a different shop, and they found me a local tire shop who would mount my 235/75/R16s and I'm happy. Speedometer is off -- reads ''Slower'' but I can calculate in my head. I saved $700 worth of tires from needlessly rotting in the sun.

[basketcase]

Just download a free GPS speedometer app from the app store.

Tom

[Rust_never_sleeps]

I asked someone at one of the trailer supply places online and they didn't know about what would be different for a truck wheel. It had a pinstripe I didn't want so didn't pursue it,

I couldn't imagine a steelie wouldn't hold up, but I never went down the rabbithole of what the DOT spec on the wheel actually means

[Steeveedee]

Trailer wheels used to be made in a 14.5" diameter because of the loading expected on a trailer. One couldn't get any other tires, and the trailer tires were rated for a lot of load. Same reason for 16.5" wheels on the 3/4T and 1T trucks. Over the years, that's all gotten diluted or engineered for better performance.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Rust_never_sleeps

I asked someone at one of the trailer supply places online and they didn't know about what would be different for a truck wheel. It had a pinstripe I didn't want so didn't pursue it,

I couldn't imagine a steelie wouldn't hold up, but I never went down the rabbithole of what the DOT spec on the wheel actually means

That pinstripe will come off with a rag and some MEK. [Present in Carb Cleaner.]

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Trailer wheels used to be made in a 14.5" diameter because of the loading expected on a trailer. One couldn't get any other tires, and the trailer tires were rated for a lot of load. Same reason for 16.5" wheels on the 3/4T and 1T trucks.

I read from the top, intending to say just that, and got beat to the punch.

There is another addition. It kind of depends on what you call a "trailer wheel" too.
There are a lot of homemade car trailers out there that use mobile home axles. Those are hubless rims, like a lot of dump trucks. Those are definitely going to limit your tire choices.

[Tomchev]

Trailer wheels have no offset

[Tomchev]

Trailer wheels have no offset.

[Tomchev]

Trailer Wheels have no offset.

[kwmech]

If I'm not mistaken trailer rims are a bit thicker. A lot of pre 60s rims were riveted