How difficult to convert front to coil over springs.

[IT Cowboy]

How involved and difficult is it to convert the front end to coil over springs. Do the current spring mounts need cut off, new ones welded on or is there a bolt on kit and can it be done with just the wheels off.

Next would it really improve the ride and handing for the better for the price or would I better just replacing the springs and shocks.

[1970 CST Short Wide]

A few years ago I installed QA1 Coil overs on Front And Rear on my 70. A Plazma cutter made things a Lot easier for the front ones as you need to open up the hole were the shock comes through. Rear was a simple (for me) bolt on. I understand they now have a Full cradle assembly for the front that includes rack and pinion. I don’t know if a Plazma cutter would be necessary for that one. As far as ride and handling there’s No Comparison. They are a bit pricey and there are a few Companies making them.

[hewittca]

I recently installed the newer QA1 components with the front crossmember. It is a very straightforward install, but does require quite a bit of disassembly and removal of old parts. I am nowhere near the point of testing these components, but the fit and finish is excellent so far.

[weq92f]

Originally Posted by hewittca

I recently installed the newer QA1 components with the front crossmember. It is a very straightforward install, but does require quite a bit of disassembly and removal of old parts. I am nowhere near the point of testing these components, but the fit and finish is excellent so far.

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That is looking real nice. Wilwood spindles!!!

Ima likely be doing this as well...maybe not the cradle but definitely the arms/coilovers. Curious...did everything sit totally flush with the frame rails before being torqued down...were there any mentions in install words to account for such a thing? Which spring rate did you choose?

-Kevin

[hewittca]

Originally Posted by weq92f

.

That is looking real nice. Wilwood spindles!!!

Ima likely be doing this as well...maybe not the cradle but definitely the arms/coilovers. Curious...did everything sit totally flush with the frame rails before being torqued down...were there any mentions in install words to account for such a thing? Which spring rate did you choose?

-Kevin

Yes the cross member was a nice snug fit on the rails, which honestly I was surprised by. There was no indication in the instructions to expect otherwise. You do have to drill quite a few new holes to bolt it all up, but once you do it is all very solid. I went with the 750 lb/in springs after consulting QA1. I am doing an iron block LS swap and that's the spring rate they recommended.

[weq92f]

Originally Posted by hewittca

Yes the cross member was a nice snug fit on the rails, which honestly I was surprised by. There was no indication in the instructions to expect otherwise. You do have to drill quite a few new holes to bolt it all up, but once you do it is all very solid. I went with the 750 lb/in springs after consulting QA1. I am doing an iron block LS swap and that's the spring rate they recommended.

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Thank you!

-Kevin

[1970 CST Short Wide]

Originally Posted by hewittca

I recently installed the newer QA1 components with the front crossmember. It is a very straightforward install, but does require quite a bit of disassembly and removal of old parts. I am nowhere near the point of testing these components, but the fit and finish is excellent so far.

YES That’s the New kit. If I were to do it again it’s what I would use.

[connorm]

Ridetech is another option, full transparency, I used to work there. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

https://ridetech.com/product/1971-19...or-coil-overs/

[theastronaut]

Spring rate is spring rate, it doesn't matter if its a separate coil and shock or a coilover. Same goes with shock valving- doesn't matter if its separate or combined with the spring. A lot of people hear "coilover" and automatically think they're a magic pill for making it ride and handle better, but they mainly just make it easier to change spring length and spring rate (desirable on a race/track car) and ride height/corner balance adjustments are easy to make.

The stock spring rates, or drop spring rates available to fit in the stock pocket aren't bad as-is. The stock shock geometry isn't bad as-is either unless you're going super low, so switching to a coilover won't really improve either of those aspects.

A good quality double adjustable shock in the correct open/closed length for your ride height will do about 90% as much as a coilover can do for ride quality, if the coilover shocks are also adjustable. You just can't adjust ride height or spring rate as easily, but how often do you need to do that on a street truck?

Another thing you often lose with coilovers is suspension travel. Trying to stuff a coilover in the place a coil spring was means you lose travel, and you need travel to have good ride quality. To compensate they usually raise the spring/shock damping rates to make it stiff enough that it won't bottom out, but that makes it stiff all of the time.

My autocross car has coilovers, but they're set up with pretty low spring rates (125 lb front, 105 lb rear) and they have tons of travel so it still rides pretty nicely. The shock valving is vastly better than the original struts so its able to corner a lot better from the wheel motion and body motion being much better controlled.

If you're not chasing lap times and aren't wanting to adjust the ride height often, a set of drop springs and adjustable shocks will get you where you want to be with ride quality and handling improvements, then you could spend the money you saved on sway bars and a better steering box like DSE or Borgeson to improve steering feel/response.