Uncle Loyd's 72' C-10

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

That's a good question Scoti, do you think I would notice the differences in handling characteristics over stock lowering springs and shocks?

I'm biased.... A spring & shock in the right orientation is just as effective as a coil-over set-up IMHO.

Where I see the aftermarket kits shining is when it's an x-member that raises the pivot points of the arms, offers better suspension Geometry, proper shock travel for the lower height, & the center 'lower beam/structure' is higher than OE for increased ground clearance. The 'Coil-Over kit' approach are also much easier for tuning purposes (as far front spring rates vs hoping the OE set-up works as you like) & are updated w/R&P steering.

A 1.5" Notched/Sectioned OE x-member, 2.5-3" drop spindles, raised upper shock mounts, + a 1-2" lowering spring yields a low enough ride height that you'll need taller wheel tubs for tire clearance inside the engine compartment w/4-5" of ground clearance @ the lowest point of the x-member. Add in the 'Caster Mod' which is fairly easy on these trucks (because of the lower a-arm mounting arrangement) w/some NEG Camber & you have an enjoyable driver

Either way, the best suspension (ride quality + performance) comes from a set-up that has proper travel w/o compromise + proper settings (a modded stock set-up w/o updated alignment targets still yields old truck results).

If you have money for an aftermarket set-up, that saves time & usually has the later technology built into them (Detroit Speed; Ridetech; QA-1 etc). Porterbuilt (or similar types) def offer the ground clearance but I'm not sure how much Geometry improvements they have since their main selling point is to yield much lower than OE ride height. If you have time, tools, & the desire to DIY, the modded stock old school stuff can work too.

[cornerstone]

Thank you Scoti. I checked out the main suspension suppliers and realize the money they are asking is not what I would give for a mess around town truck. If I do yank all the air ride crap out before I try it it will be to only go back to stock modded components. Hell, I thought it handled pretty good for an old truck last time it was on the road. It did have significant body roll but that should be gone with the 2 sway bars that have been added.

[hewittca]

Great to see you post an update, even if it is just that you are thinking about the truck again! I feel your concerns about air ride, although my main reason for never using it is because I like the truck to have an aggressive stance always. Not just when it's aired out. My last truck I did all the mods SCOTI mentioned above. It was a lot of work but the truck did handle and drive very nicely. On my new truck, I went with the QA-1 bolt in crossmember assembly. It accomplishes all the goals I was after with the modified stock suspension with even more improvement and adjustability, plus the rack and pinion. I've not driven on this suspension yet, but so far it has been a breeze to install and set up. I went this route because I didn't want to repeat all the work I did on the last truck, plus I caught it when they were doing a 10% sale.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Thank you Scoti. I checked out the main suspension suppliers and realize the money they are asking is not what I would give for a mess around town truck. If I do yank all the air ride crap out before I try it it will be to only go back to stock modded components. Hell, I thought it handled pretty good for an old truck last time it was on the road. It did have significant body roll but that should be gone with the 2 sway bars that have been added.

Then modded OE stuff will def get it done for the 'low buck' approach.

Since you're in Azle, I have a pre-fabbed Squarebody era 1.5" notched front x-member that I built for another board member that catfished me upon completion (if interested in that mod?).

[cornerstone]

Is the squarebody era of crossmember any different than the 67-72 in stock form?

[raggedjim]

Not to step on Scoti's toes but they are the same with the exception of a couple of the mounting holes. You would have to drill a relocated mounting hole in your frame. This is assuming a stock crossmember.

The dropped member probably requires 4 new frame holes on the side and some kind of bracket/support on top of the frame to secure the top crossmember mounting holes. Or, if you never plan to remove it, you could weld it in. The six bolts that come in from the bottom should still be in the correct location.

Here's a post showing one way of making a bracket to attach the top holes. Some people would say you don't need to use those holes... https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...&postcount=123

Good luck, Rg

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

Not to step on Scoti's toes but they are the same with the exception of a couple of the mounting holes. You would have to drill a relocated mounting hole in your frame. This is assuming a stock crossmember.

The dropped member probably requires 4 new frame holes on the side and some kind of bracket/support on top of the frame to secure the top crossmember mounting holes. Or, if you never plan to remove it, you could weld it in. The six bolts that come in from the bottom should still be in the correct location.

Here's a post showing one way of making a bracket to attach the top holes. Some people would say you don't need to use those holes... https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...&postcount=123

Good luck, Rg

Since you have to re-drill the vertical holes in the frame, I've drilled the 'upper' 2 holes as high as possible so it's as close as I could get to the top part of the rail & did not feel a need anything additional for the top/horizontal part of the x-member. For my dually, the HD trucks had an inner rail brace that helped it but it was done the same.