1972 K30 Custom Camper Duramax/ZF6 Highlander

[ShortbedClayton]

Figured I’d start a new build thread for my next project in mind! I love reading build threads and looking at pictures. Always amazes me how each individual takes a different approach to things. So I’m closing the corner on a 6 year build of my 1972 K20 Cheyenne Super crew cab short bed and I’m already dreaming up the next build. This is gonna be another long term build for me as funds won’t be as plentiful as my wife and I are expecting our first daughter this October. As the title say this is what I’m dreaming up as a new project.
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[ShortbedClayton]

I slowly been collecting some parts for this project. I’m new to diesels so I’m a little nervous to say the least but I know I can do it. The starting point is my 1972 custom camper c20 wearing most of its original paint. I bought this truck during Covid before prices went sky high. Typical Pennsylvania rust but I’ve always wanted an Ochre truck. Was bought new in at Sunderland Chevrolet in Leymone PA. I’m third owner. Story is guy bought it and had a 8’ slide in and a 14’ aluminum boat him and his wife would go camping and fishing. As the family grew he upgraded to a pull behind camper. The glove box was full of paperwork from Raystown lake with boat launch permits and a road atlas from Maine. I’m sure he worked that 402 400 real good towing the boat.
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[ShortbedClayton]

So my plan for the build is to frame swap the body to a 1972 k20 frame I have. I picked up a 2005 LLY Duramax with a ZF6 manual transmission last August. I plan to remove the transfer case from the ZF6 and install an adapter to run a round pattern NP205 out of a late 80s K30. Going to install the engine and trans into the k20 frame. Use the Duramax rear axle and install a passenger drop Dana 60 in the front. I haven’t done much of anything with the doner Duramax. First thing I’m gonna do is send the wiring harness out to be cleaned up and made standalone. Also reflash the ECM and get tuning done on it. As far as I can tell the motor is mostly stock with head studs and gaskets already done. EGR deleted and new up pipes. I never heard the engine run so I want to do so before going any further on this build but I jumped on it for the harder to find 6 speed manual. I’m planing on a 6” lift and 35” tires. Cross over steering in the front as well. Possibly a redhead steering box. I’m not gonna mess too much with the rust in the truck as I’d like to get all the mechanicals dialed in first. Once that’s done and time to fix the body, I’d like to do a two tone white and ochre with upper and lower woodgrain trim. Change to a factory manual tilt column. Install tool box bedside and swap to a C60 factory cab light roof skin. Also would like to do a grey plaid Highlander clone on the interior. End goal for this build is a fuel efficient daily driver/tow rig for my crew cab. Would also like to document as much as possible cuz it’s hard to find in depth info on a Duramax swap into these trucks. And I haven’t been able to come up with much on the ZF6 either.
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[57taskforce]

I’m in to see this come together. Sounds like a real cool plan you’ve got.

[396ci]

did you check out member 71blksuper4x4 build? he did a duramax k30 crew cab with a 5 speed manual.

[cj847]

Have you thought about just using the 2005 chassis? It's similar to a Tahoe except for wheelbase.

https://www.e-zchassisswaps.com/16

[ShortbedClayton]

Originally Posted by cj847

Have you thought about just using the 2005 chassis? It's similar to a Tahoe except for wheelbase.

https://www.e-zchassisswaps.com/16

Yeah I thought about it but I’d rather have the challenge of putting in the factory frame. I’m not a fan of body swap onto newer chassis
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[ShortbedClayton]

Originally Posted by 396ci

did you check out member 71blksuper4x4 build? he did a duramax k30 crew cab with a 5 speed manual.

I’ve read his build thread front to back couple times. I pulled a lot of info from his to build my crew cab. For some reason I thought he did a Allison in that build
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[GM1970s]

Following.

[loudchevy]

Sub'd to follow along.

[Wpatteson]

Oh I can't wait for this one!!! Subscribed!!

[ShortbedClayton]

Not much progress at all but I did go ahead and send the ecm harness to Ken at stand alone harness to get all the unnecessary wires removed. Lightning fast turnaround time. I had it back in less than 2 weeks. Also sent the ECM to dmax swap to get the vats removed and a DSP 5 position switch installed. First plan of attack is to hear the motor run before I go any farther with this project. Going to put a used engine harness on as mine has so many but connectors on it.
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[ShortbedClayton]

Started slowly working on this build. Brought the doner Duramax chassis into the shop. Pulled the engine trans t case drive shaft and rear axle out. Next I brought the doner 1970 k10 frame into the shop for tear down. I removed everything from the frame. Removed all riveted brackets. Cleaned behind the brackets and put POR15 between everything. Swapped the rear axle from spring hangers to the 71-72 style hangers as I perfer them over the smaller earlier ones. Both rear crossmebers were rotted in spots so I replaced them with welded in crossmembers. This frame was below average condition but I figured with all the modifications I planned for this build I couldn’t bring myself to modify one of my nice frames. Bolted all the brackets back on with grade 8 hardware. For the front I installed The following: HD fabricated upper shackle mounts, 3/8” shackles, all greaseable bushings and grade 8 bolts. Installed a borgusen 2wd steering box and joint. Installed a Dana 60 SRW front axle. New studs and u bolts. Next was ORD crossover steering setup. For the springs I combined 2 sets of 6” skyjacker front springs. Hoping that will beef up the springs enough to handle the weight of the Duramax. In the rear I install 6” skyjacker rear springs, greaseable bolts and bushings, 4.5” HD rear shackles. Fit up new ruffstuff axle perches and got the 11.5 AAM rear axle in. Need to install shock tabs, shorten the purches, and weld them on. Used ruffstuff top plates and round u bolts. Have to remove the old perches as well. Next was boxing the long part of the frame under the cab. I welded X braces in the existing frame. Cut out my inner frame plates and slotted them at the X braces. Fully welded the plates in and slot welded where the inner braces are. My though was this ties the two pieces together. I also put them were I think my trans crossmember will some what go. Cleaned the inside the frame and POR15 both sides before capping and welding them. Ground all smooth. Also welded all the unnecessary holes in the frame both sides before capping. Got a ton of time in it so far and it don’t look like much but progress is progress
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[ShortbedClayton]

Some more suspension related pics
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[ShortbedClayton]

Gonna finish welding up what’s needed on the rear axle. Need to install a crossmember for the rear shock tabs. Next step I think is gonna be getting the donor cab set on the frame and start mocking up engine and crossmember mounts.
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[ShortbedClayton]

Remove the rear axle. Removed the factory spring perches. Shortened my new perches up a bit and burned them in and reinstalled the axle. Got my rear shock crossmember installed about 1.5” farther back from stock location. Moved work up front. Cut 2” of the upper frame lip off on both sides and install a new web and gussets. Got that all burned in and cleaned up. I’m about ready to get the motor and trans in the frame and start building some mounting crossmembers.
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[ShortbedClayton]

Fabbed up some temporary motor mounts and crossmember for trans and set engine and trans in the frame. Gonna have to redo some of my frame notching at a later date. Plan is to get the cab sitting on the frame to check clearances. Once I know everything is gonna clear I will start on my crossmembers to mount everything up. Hoping to get the c20 in the shop this weekend
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[ShortbedClayton]

Removed cab off the 1972 c20. Don’t think that it’s ever been apart. And finally got the cab sitting on the frame to check clearances. I’m getting excited now
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[ShortbedClayton]

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[clay68c10]

Looking like a beast!!
How's the firewall clearance?

[ShortbedClayton]

Originally Posted by clay68c10

Looking like a beast!!
How's the firewall clearance?

Only thing I see so far is the factory non ac heater box will interfere with fuel filter housing. Firewall to motor I can get my hand between all areas with ease
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[Getter-Done]

I am liking this.

Will it have fender flares?

[ShortbedClayton]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

I am liking this.

Will it have fender flares?

Thank you. No flares
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[ShortbedClayton]

Set the hood on just to see what my clearances are under there. Still a lot of stuff to put on engine but looking like 3+ inches. Removed the last riveted front crossmember. Installed a new one. Started with 2x6x1/4” box tubing and notched into shape I was happy with. Need to finish welding once motor is out
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[ShortbedClayton]

Started building my transmission crossmember. Used 2x3x1/4 box tubing. Notched to shape. Sectioned the middle out and reinforced. Studs for transmission mount are molded into mount and weren’t long enough to go thru the tubing. Next i had to make the ends of the tube smaller so I could weld on my 3” Bushing tubes. Fabbed up some nice 1/4” mounts and welded to the frame. Final install will have greaseable bolts like the suspension bolts. Using an NV4500 shifter for mock up. Sitting in the truck this shifter is more comfortable than my factory 4 speed shifter. I dig it
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