Anyone ever have a hard time converting a nice stock truck into their build?

[connorm]

I have always enjoyed practical low end restomods. A 3/5 drop with the factory wheels and a 350 with a 700r4 with 3.42's or 3.73's is a common set up because it works. I would look into better bushings when you rebuild the front end, then lower the front and rear and get good shocks. This will tell you if you fall in love with the truck and want to invest more parts into this truck.

At the end of the day it is your truck and your money. Do what you want and modify it how you like.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by r8rs4lf

That guys always gets some of the baddest trucks! Have you seen his new black one?

That's another thing I'm throwing around, drop it, add wider WW's and drive it for a while to see how I feel about it.

I believe an axle flip would require a notch and that is something I don't want to do. If I drop it I'm looking to do a 3/5 with spindles and a 1" spring in front with 5" drop leafs in the rear OR a 4" in the rear, see how that turns out and if I need another inch, just do shackles.

I absolutely want OD. That is something I will eventually look in to. I think I have 3.08 right now because on the freeway the motor doesn't really scream at 70MPH.

I had Intros on my Silverado SS back in the day so I'm hooked! Not really interested in a tubular front end as I doubt I will use it for it's intended use.

Can a leaf spring rear end be changed over to trailing arms and springs? I was a bit thrown off when I saw the current rear suspension. From what I understand a leaf spring rear suspension was an option as well as the 12 bolt I have.

I thought about doing a few bolt ons for the motor like a cam, headers, heads, and maybe even FI.

Thanks everyone, it's good to hear other peoples opinions.

Yes..... Leaf's or Truck-Arm/coil set-up was available from the factory so it's a bolt-in swap. You'd need the complete T/A set-up from another truck (arms, corresponding rear end, shock mounts, shocks/coils, Panhard bar set-up).

You could probably buy a non-running parts truck or rolling frame (a long bed works) for obtaining the specific parts or if going the drop route, several manufacturers offer robust kits w/many of those parts specific to lowering at the same time.

A clean, well dropped stocker w/a sbc/OD trans is on point. Modding (cutting up) a super-original one is very subjective.

[hewittca]

I went through this exact same debate in my head with my last truck. I bought it as a completely original truck that I intended to keep original. Then I ran into a few issues with the brakes and eventually the motor started overheating. The truck sat beside my shop for 3 months while I went back and forth about rebuilding the stock components, or turning it into a full build. I eventually got over the fact that it was an all original truck when I started looking into the costs of rebuilding the stock 305. An LS swap spiraled into a full build. The end result was in the spirit of the original truck, similar to what you are wanting to do. I never regretted my decision to cut that truck up.

[HeavyHauler]

That is a very nice truck! It seems you can do all the things you want to it but just dont cut on it or modify anything that isnt just a simple bolt on and easily reversible.

Keep all the original parts you take off the truck and that includes the engine/trans if original to the truck.

[HeavyHauler]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Couch surf sunday

What brand wheels are those?

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by r8rs4lf

Can either of you solidify my decision by adding the Intros I want on my truck with the drop?

These are the two I'm looking to go with.

https://introwheels.com/en/products/...0-80-exposed-5

https://introwheels.com/en/products/...attern=5xblank

Thanks!

Either way would rock.
But an open wheel like those would needs some matching big brakes.

[KQQL IT]

Crude but v rods are cool

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by r8rs4lf

I found a great stock truck (Highlander edition) that most people would think I would be an idiot for changing things.

I wouldn't call you an idiot, but I would keep the truck stock. Looks like a perfect example of what many of us would like to have.

How about preserving it and finding another one to modify? Having owned mine for 36+ years, I sometimes wish I would have restored it, but kept it stock. Well, except for disc brakes.

I know it's a personal thing and I'll get $hit for this, but I think 22" wheels belong on new trucks and SUVs, not classics.

[Chevyland]

Truck is perfect the way it is now
Wouldn't change a thing
Anyone can have a built truck
Original survivors are becoming non existent
If you end up kicking down the road
Pm me, I'll buy it
And save it's life

[derotoreut]

This is really a loaded question. Everyone is going to have their opinion. So really there is no right or wrong answer. Bottom line is it's your truck to do with as you see fit. It all depends on what you want to do with it. No one should really bash you one way or the other for your decision.

I love these trucks as I've owned a 69, 70 and 71. What I've done to my trucks likely might not sit well with some people, but I'm not doing it for them.... I'm doing it for me and that's all that matters. Everyone has different taste and that's what makes the world go around. How would it be if we all did the exact same thing with our trucks? I love seeing what other people have done to their cars and trucks. I try to keep an open mind, and what might be something for me, might not be something for the other guy.

Now what I don't understand is how Chevyland can say that, "Anyone can have a built truck", because it's not that easy. Trust me... I know. Ask me how, or look at my build threads. You can put a lot of blood and sweat into these trucks.

Either way, have fun with it and enjoy it!

[davischevy]

I have modified a lot of vehicles. But couldn't touch that one.

[KQQL IT]

...

[Chevyland]

Originally Posted by derotoreut

This is really a loaded question. Everyone is going to have their opinion. So really there is no right or wrong answer. Bottom line is it's your truck to do with as you see fit. It all depends on what you want to do with it. No one should really bash you one way or the other for your decision.


Now what I don't understand is how Chevyland can say that, "Anyone can have a built truck", because it's not that easy. Trust me... I know. Ask me how, or look at my build threads. You can put a lot of blood and sweat into these trucks.

Either way, have fun with it and enjoy it!

I agree, it's his truck and he should do what he wants with it
My point is that it is much easier to find modified trucks these days than originals that haven't been modified
I'm not saying restoring trucks is easy
I've had several of them, but never drove them
They are only original once....
And it seems like that is weighing on his mind
Hence this thread

[72c20customcamper]

You’re not cutting it up if everything you do is bolt on . I lowered my 68 added disc brakes and put a 383 stroker in it . Nothing that couldn’t be undone. I did the same with my Chevelle . I still have the original drive trains for both . It’s not like you’re making a short bed out of a long .

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

You’re not cutting it up if everything you do is bolt on . I lowered my 68 added disc brakes and put a 383 stroker in it . Nothing that couldn’t be undone. I did the same with my Chevelle . I still have the original drive trains for both . It’s not like you’re making a short bed out of a long .

Nothing wrong w/that either.

[geunther]

Lots have already posted and I don't have really anything new to add. But to add to any kind of consensus:

The builds on here motivated me to do something creative. The quality of the work, the reliability of an LS, the look of the lowered or lifted....really nice work (all of you).

Then I bought what would be be just shy of a survivor. It still had the original shocks, engine, interior, pretty much everything except battery and filters. I didn't have the heart to do anything I could not reverse back to original in one day. So like many, I lowered it, added sniper, and am now repairing/preventing rust.

It takes a lot of work to build a custom. The people that do it have some serious talent and put forth a ton of effort. However, I would argue that it is just has hard or harder to keep these older trucks stock. Pick your poison.

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by HeavyHauler

What brand wheels are those?

One off set my son built.
18x12 and 18x13 for his k5

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by Chevyland

I agree, it's his truck and he should do what he wants with it
My point is that it is much easier to find modified trucks these days than originals that haven't been modified
I'm not saying restoring trucks is easy
I've had several of them, but never drove them
They are only original once....
And it seems like that is weighing on his mind
Hence this thread

Got it now. Agreed!

[r8rs4lf]

When I called to order my drop leaf spring pack from CPP yesterday we got into a discussion about converting to a tubular trailing arm suspension. He said he was very impressed with the ride in their shop truck that had their kit installed and that I should consider changing over. Kit is about $1600 plus tax and comes with a c notch. I would also need to purchase the drop spindles and front coils. He asked what size wheels I would be running, I told him 20's or 22's and he suggested a 5/7 drop. Not sure that I want that much of a drop as I want better ride quality. Here is the kit and the drop could be changed to different heights.

https://classicperform.com/shop/6372trs-k-k

Should I consider changing the rear to a tubular trailing arm suspension? I can imagine the ride would be vastly different, but it does require welding the spring perches on my 12 bolt he said. One thing to consider is I do plan on adding a high(er) HP motor in the future when this rebuilt 350 tanks a dump. Either a 383 or a BB. My current 350 was rebuilt about 11K miles ago so it may be a while.



I initially inquired about a 3.5/5 drop for my leaf spring set up and he stated it would bottom out considering the roads here in SoCal. Another thing he said is I would need a c notch with that size drop. Huh?

I was a bit confused with what he said about the 3.5/5 drop. From what I've read here, most people say there are no issues with that drop. No c notch needed and enough travel with the bed empty. I don't plan on using my bed for anything but a chair and cooler as I already have a Tundra to use for truck duties. So, is there enough clearance with a 5" drop in the rear (leaf spring) so it doesn't bottom out? What kind of clearance are you guys with leaf spring suspensions seeing between the rear end and bump stops?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by r8rs4lf

When I called to order my drop leaf spring pack from CPP yesterday we got into a discussion about converting to a tubular trailing arm suspension. He said he was very impressed with the ride in their shop truck that had their kit installed and that I should consider changing over. Kit is about $1600 plus tax and comes with a c notch. I would also need to purchase the drop spindles and front coils. He asked what size wheels I would be running, I told him 20's or 22's and he suggested a 5/7 drop. Not sure that I want that much of a drop as I want better ride quality. Here is the kit and the drop could be changed to different heights.

Should I consider changing the rear to a tubular trailing arm suspension? I can imagine the ride would be vastly different, but it does require welding the spring perches on my 12 bolt he said. One thing to consider is I do plan on adding a high(er) HP motor in the future when this rebuilt 350 tanks a dump. Either a 383 or a BB. My current 350 was rebuilt about 11K miles ago so it may be a while.

I initially inquired about a 3.5/5 drop for my leaf spring set up and he stated it would bottom out considering the roads here in SoCal. Another thing he said is I would need a c notch with that size drop. Huh?

I was a bit confused with what he said about the 3.5/5 drop. From what I've read here, most people say there are no issues with that drop. No c notch needed and enough travel with the bed empty. I don't plan on using my bed for anything but a chair and cooler as I already have a Tundra to use for truck duties. So, is there enough clearance with a 5" drop in the rear (leaf spring) so it doesn't bottom out? What kind of clearance are you guys with leaf spring suspensions seeing between the rear end and bump stops?

I personally wouldn't use tubular arms (square or round) w/Poly bushed ends for GM's Truck Arm rear suspension.

Stock style 63-72 truck arms were 2 c-channels spot-welded together to create a basic I-beam & they used a rubber bushing @ the chassis mount. Because the truck-arms are solidly bolted/fixed to the rear-end, there needs to be some way for the suspension to have flex. C-channel/I-beam construction allow the 'arms' to slightly twist (articulate) while using the rubber bushing @ the chassis to absorb some of that flex & isolate the suspension from the chassis. The GM set-up was crude but worked within typical driving situations w/limited bind.

The tubular arms won't allow the twisting/flexing GM's I-beam was designed to do. Same thing w/the Poly front bushing vs the rubber.... So tubular arms w/poly bushings = more bind than the designed limited bind from GM.

Do tubular arms w/poly bushings function in place of the factory parts? Yes.... Just w/additional bind.
A solid arm can be used in place of the I-beam style truck-arm but it needs a spherical/rotational front/chassis joint to allow articulation w/o bind.

Clearance is subjective. Some had issues, others don't. Some remove the rear bump-stop rubber & frame mount for additional clearance but that leaves you exposed to a possible hard hit to the frame rail under less than ideal circumstances.

[r8rs4lf]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I personally wouldn't use tubular arms (square or round) w/Poly bushed ends for GM's Truck Arm rear suspension.

Stock style 63-72 truck arms were 2 c-channels spot-welded together to create a basic I-beam & they used a rubber bushing @ the chassis mount. Because the truck-arms are solidly bolted/fixed to the rear-end, there needs to be some way for the suspension to have flex. C-channel/I-beam construction allow the 'arms' to slightly twist (articulate) while using the rubber bushing @ the chassis to absorb some of that flex & isolate the suspension from the chassis. The GM set-up was crude but worked within typical driving situations w/limited bind.

The tubular arms won't allow the twisting/flexing GM's I-beam was designed to do. Same thing w/the Poly front bushing vs the rubber.... So tubular arms w/poly bushings = more bind than the designed limited bind from GM.

Do tubular arms w/poly bushings function in place of the factory parts? Yes.... Just w/additional bind.
A solid arm can be used in place of the I-beam style truck-arm but it needs a spherical/rotational front/chassis joint to allow articulation w/o bind.

Clearance is subjective. Some had issues, others don't. Some remove the rear bump-stop rubber & frame mount for additional clearance but that leaves you exposed to a possible hard hit to the frame rail under less than ideal circumstances.

It looks like factory pieces can be pieced together through Classic Industries. Are you saying this is the better way to go?

What about leaving the leaf spring set up and adding Caltracs? Looking at some set ups online makes me wonder if they will hang too low. Any input?

[yuccales]

That's one good looking truck! Could go in your face full pre-runner look.

[r8rs4lf]

Originally Posted by yuccales

That's one good looking truck! Could go in your face full pre-runner look.

Damn that looks good too!

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Nothing wrong w/that either.

No there isn’t , but it’s not easily reversed and if you did it would be a noticeable modification unless you do a frame swap .

[r8rs4lf]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

One off set my son built.
18x12 and 18x13 for his k5

Is that a Caltrac set up on your truck?

If so, any other pics or problems with the way it hangs low?